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/p/adorable-ghost-friends-crochet-pattern-for-halloween-fun


en - English Crochet pattern for a stuffed toy Etsy-shop: mycrowonder.etsy.com Ravelry-shop: ravelry.com/stores/mycrochetwonders Instagram: @mycrochetwonders ©Marina Chuchkalova 2024 Materials and tools: 1. Sport 5 ply cotton blend yarn (330 m/100 g) GHOST WITH A PUMPKIN: • Milky white or off-white – Alize Cotton Gold 62 or 55 • Black - YarnArt Jeans 28 • Orange - Alize Cotton Gold 37 • Purple – YarnArt Jeans 50 (or any other shade) • Lilac – YarnArt Jeans 19 • Yellow-orange - Alize Cotton Gold 83 GHOST WITH A BOOK (GIRL): • Milky white or off-white – Alize Cotton Gold 62 or 55 • Bright pink - Alize Cotton Gold 149 • Pink - Alize Cotton Gold 33 • Light pink – YarnArt Jeans 18 • Purple – YarnArt Jeans 50 • Turquoise - Alize Cotton Gold 610 • Black - YarnArt Jeans 28 • Yellow-orange - Alize Cotton Gold 83 GHOST WITH A BUBBLE TEA: (In this pattern, we will crochet a doll base for this ghost) • Milky white or off-white – Alize Cotton Gold 62 or 55 • Teal - YarnArt Jeans 63 • Orange - Alize Cotton Gold 37 • Yellow-orange - Alize Cotton Gold 83 • Green pear – Alize Cotton Gold 193 • Light gray - Alize Cotton Gold 533 2. 2 mm crochet hook. 3. Fiberfill. 4. Safety eyes, diameter 8 mm – 2 pieces. (for the kitten). 5. A piece of black felt. 6. Silicon glue. 7. A piece of heavyweight cardboar. 8. A green chenille stem, 5 cm. 9. Dry pink pastel for shading cheeks, brush. 10. Yarn needle. 11. Glass stuffing beads. The height of the finished toy from the specified materials is approx. 23 cm. The legs, body, and head are crocheted as one piece. The blanket-wrap is removable. 12. Pompom maker (size 4.8 mm). 13. Ball head sewing pins. Difficulty level: intermediate. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 2 Abbreviations used (US): mr – magic ring; st(s) – stitch(es); ch – chain; slst – slip stitch; sc – single crochet; inc – increase; dec – decrease; hdc – half double crochet; dc – double crochet; FLO - work through the front loop only; BLO – work through the back loop only; (sc, in) х n – repeat instructions in parenthesis the indicated number of times. Numbers in parenthesis at the end of a row or round indicate the stitch count after completion of the row or round. Let's start crocheting! Legs, make 2 In milky white yarn ch7. Work in spiral around both sides of the chain. Stuff as you go. Rnd 1: start working from the 2nd loop from the hook, inc, 4 sc, 4 sc in the last ch. of the chain. Continue into the unused loops on the other side of the chain: 4 sc, inc in the first ch. of the chain. (16) © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 3 Rnd 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc (24) Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) х 2, 4 sc, (inc, 1 sc) х 2, (1 sc, inc) х 2, 4 sc, (inc, 1 sc) х 2 (32) Rnd 4: BLO sc in every st. (32) Change yarn to teal and cut the milky white one. Rnd 5: BLO slst in every st. (32) Rnd 6: work in BLO of round 5 and in the same time in BLO of round 4 - sc in every st. (32) Cut out an insole from cardboard and glue it to the inner side of the sole. Rnds 7-8 (2 rounds): sc in every st. (32) Rnd 9: 8 sc, 8 dec, 8 sc (24) Rnd 10: dec, 6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc, dec (18) Pour some glass stuffing beads inside the boot (approx. the volume of a bottle cap), then add the stuffing on top. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 4 Rnd 11: 7 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc (16) Change yarn to orange and cut the teal one. Next, crochet the legs in a striped pattern, changing color every 2 rounds. The current color is indicated in parentheses. Rnd 12: (orange) BLO sc in every st. (16) Rnd 13: (orange) sc in every st. (16) Rnds 14-15 (2 rounds): (yellow-orange) sc in every st. (16) Rnds 16-17 (2 rounds): (orange) sc in every st. (16) Rnds 18-19 (2 rounds): (yellow-orange) sc in every st. (16) Please ensure that the beginning of the round aligns with the middle of the heel. If the start of the round has shifted to the right (as shown in the photo below), work a shifting stitch. The shifting stitch is not an increase, but rather an extra stitch. The stitch immediately following the shifting stitch becomes the first stitch of the round. Rnds 20-21 (2 rounds): (orange) sc in every st. (16) Rnds 22-23 (2 rounds): (yellow-orange) sc in every st. (16) Rnds 24-25 (2 rounds): (orange) sc in every st. (16) Rnds 26-27 (2 rounds): (yellow-orange) sc in every st. (16) Continue with orange yarn only and cut yellow-orange one. Rnds 28: sc in every st. (16) Cut the yarn and fasten off on the first leg. Don’t fasten off on the second leg, leave a loop open. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 5 Put the legs together with the boots parallel to each other. Use sewing pins to mark the stitch on the inner side of each leg (as shown in the photo below). From the open loop, single crochet to the pin, then make a slip stitch into the loop marked by the pin. Chain 2, insert the hook into the loop marked by the pin on the other leg. This loop is the beginning of the round of the body. Without cutting the yarn, start crocheting the body. Body Stuff as you go. Rnd 29: 16 sc across the sts of the leg, 2 sc along the chain, 16 sc across the sts of the leg, 2 sc along the chain (36) Rnds 30-40 (11 rounds): sc in every st. (36) Rnd 41: (4 sc, dec) х 6 (30) Rnds 42-44 (3 rounds): sc in every st. (30) © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 6 Rnd 45: (3 sc, de) х 6 (24) Rnd 46: (2 sc, dec) х 6 (18) Change yarn to milk white and cut the orange one. Without cutting the yarn, start crocheting the head. Head Stuff as you go. Rnd 47: slst in every st. (18) Rnd 48: (2 sc, inc) х 6 (24) Rnd 49: (3 sc, inc) х 6 (30) Rnd 50: (4 sc, inc) х 6 (36) Rnd 51: (5 sc, inc) х 6 (42) Rnds 52-59 (8 rounds): sc in every st. (42) Rnd 60: (5 sc, dec) х 6 (36) Rnd 61: (4 sc, dec) х 6 (30) Rnd 62: (3 sc, dec) х 6 (24) Rnd 63: (2 sc, dec) х 6 (18) Rnd 64: (1 sc, dec) х 6 (12) Rnd 65: 6 dec (6) Add more fiberfill if needed. Pull the opening closed. Weave in the yarn end. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 7 Ghost-cloak In milky white yarn. Work in spiral Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnd 2: 6 inc (12) Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) х 6 (18) Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) х 6 (24) Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) х 6 (30) Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) х 6 (36) Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) х 6 (42) Rnd 8: sc in every st. (42) Rnd 9: (6 sc, inc) х 6 (48) Rnds 10-16 (7 rounds): sc in every st. (48) Rnd 17: (7 sc, inc) х 6 (54) Rnds 18-20 (3 rounds): sc in every st. (54) Rnd 21: (8 sc, inc) х 6 (60) Rnds 22-23 (2 rounds): sc in every st. (60) Rnd 24: (9 sc, inc) х 6 (66) Rnd 25: sc in every st. (66) Rnd 26: (10 sc, inc) х 6 (72) Rnd 27: sc in every st. (72) Rnd 28: (11 sc, inc) х 6 (78) Rnd 29: sc in every st. (78) Rnd 30: (12 sc, inc) х 6 (84) Rnd 31: sc in every st. (84) Rnd 32: (13 sc, inc) х 6 (90) Rnd 33: sc in every st. (90) Rnd 34: (14 sc, inc) х 6 (96) Rnds 35-39 (5 rounds): sc in every st. (96) Rnd 40: (15 sc, inc) х 6 (102) Rnds 41-45 (5 rounds): sc in every st. (102) Rnd 46: (15 sc, dec) х 6 (96) Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Turn the cloak inside out and put it on the doll. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 8 To create a lacy edge for the Ghost girl cloak, after round 46 don't cut the yarn, make slst in the next st., turn crocheting and edge it as follows: (ch3, skip 1 st., slst in the next st.) - repeat until the end of the round. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Hands, make 2 In milky white yarn ch4. Work in spiral around both sides of the chain. Rnd 1: start from the 2nd loop from the hook, 2 sc, 3 sc in the last ch. of the chain. Continue into the unused loops on the other side of the chain: 1 sc, inc in the first ch. of the chain (8) Rnd 2: inc, 1 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (14) Rnds 3-5 (3 rounds): sc in every st. (14) Rnd 6: (5 sc, dec) х 2 (12) Rnd 7: (4 sc, dec) х 2 (10) Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) х 2 (8) Don’t stuff. Crochet 2 more sc, Fold the piece in half, and crochet the edges of both layers together with sc. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Witch Hat In black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnd 2: sc in every st. (6) Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) х 3 (9) Rnd 4: sc in every st. (9) Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) х 3 (12) Rnd 6: sc in every st. (12) Rnd 7: (3 sc, inc) х 3 (15) Rnd 8: sc in every st. (15) Rnd 9: (4 sc, inc) х 3 (18) Rnd 10: sc in every st. (18) Rnd 11: (5 sc, inc) х 3 (21) Rnd 12: sc in every st. (21) © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 9 Rnd 13: (6 sc, inc) х 3 (24) Rnd 14: sc in every st. (24) Rnd 15: (3 sc, inc) х 6 (30) Rnd 16: sc in every st. (30) Rnd 17: (4 sc, inc) х 6 (36) Rnd 18: sc in every st. (36) Rnd 19: (5 sc, inc) х 6 (42) Rnd 20: sc in every st. (42) Rnd 21: (6 sc, inc) х 6 (48) Change yarn to purple, do not cut the black one. Rnd 22: BLO slst in every st. (48) Rnd 23: work in BLO of round 22 and in the same time in BLO of round 21 - sc in every st. (48) Rnd 24: (7 sc, inc) х 6 (54) Change yarn to black, cut the purple one. Rnd 25: slst in every st. (54) Rnd 26: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) х 5, 4 sc (60) Rnd 27: (9 sc, inc) х 6 (72) Rnd 28: 5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) х 5, 5 sc (78) Rnd 29: (11 sc, inc) х 6 (84) Rnd 30: 6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) х 5, 6 sc (90) © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 10 Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. With orange yarn embroider a buckle on the hat. Pumpkin Start in brown yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnd 2: BLO sc in every st. (6) Rnd 3: 5 sc, inc (7) Rnd 4: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (8) Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) х 2 (10) Change yarn to orange, cut the brown one. Rnd 6: (5 sc in one st., slst) х 5 (30) Rnd 7: (5 inc, slst) х 5 (55) Rnds 8-17 (10 rounds): (10 sc, slst) х 5 (55) Rnd 18: (5 dec, slst) х 5 (30) Rnd 19: 15 dec (15) Put stuffing. Rnd 20: (1 sc, dec) х 5 (10) Stuff not too tightly. Pull the opening closed. Weave in the yarn end. Take a 5 cm piece of green chenille stem, wind it around a pencil to create a spiral. Then put a little glue on the tip and insert it into the pumpkin. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 11 Bow In purple yarn ch40, join the chain with a slst to make a circle. Work in joined rounds, connecting each round with slst. Rnds 1-5 (5 rounds): ch3, dc in every st. (40) Cut the yarn, leaving an end long enough for sewing. Scrunch the bow in the middle, wrap the piece of yarn you leave around the centre and tie a few knots to secure. Center In purple yarn ch13. Beginning from the 2nd loop from the hook, 1 sc in every loop till the end of the chain Cut the yarn, leaving an end long enough for sewing. Wrap the strap around the middle of the bow and sew it at the back. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 12 Book In pink yarn ch11. Work in turning rows. Row 1: start working from the 2nd loop from the hook, 1 sc in every st., ch1, turn (10) Rows 2-7 (6 rows): sc in every st., ch1, turn (10) Row 8: slst in every st., ch3, turn (10) Row 9: FLO - dc in every st., ch1, turn (10) Row 10: slst in every st., ch1, turn (10) Row 11: FLO – sc in every st., ch1, turn (10) Rows 12-16 (5 rows): sc in every st., ch1, turn (10) Row 17: sc in every st. (10) Without cutting the yarn, single crochet around all 4 sides, making 3 sc in the corner stitches. Cut four 2.5 x 3.8 cm rectangles (pages) and one 1.0 x 3.8 cm narrow rectangle from white felt. Glue the pages together on one side. Glue the narrow rectangle to the spine from the inside. Glue the stack of pages to the center of the book. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 13 Kitten Head In black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnd 2: 6 inc (12) Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) х 6 (18) Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) х 6 (24) Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) х 6 (30) Rnds 6-10 (5 rounds): sc in every st. (30) Insert safety eyes between rows 9 and 10, with a distance of 6 stitches between them. Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) х 6 (24) Rnd 12: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) х 5, 1 sc (18) Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) х 6 (12) Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Put stuffing inside. Embroider the eye irises with orange yarn. Use pink yarn to embroider the nose. Embroider the whiskers with single-thread milk white yarn. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 14 Body In black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnd 2: 6 inc (12) Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) х 6 (18) Rnd 4: (5 sc, inc) х 3 (21) Rnd 5: sc in every st. (21) Rnd 6: (5 sc, dec) х 3 (18) Rnd 7: sc in every st. (18) Rnd 8: (4 sc, dec) х 3 (15) Rnd 9: sc in every st. (15) Rnd 10: (3 sc, dec) х 3 (12) Rnd 11: sc in every st. (12) Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Put stuffing. Sew the head to the body. Ears, make 2 In black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 4 sc in mr (4) Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) х 2 (6) Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) х 3 (9) Rnd 4: sc in every st. (9) Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Don’t stuff. Sew the ears to the kitten's head. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 15 Arms In black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnds 2-7 (6 rounds): sc in every st. (6) Cut the yarn, leaving a tail 10 cm long. Don’t stuff. Weave the yarn tail through the front loops and pull tight to close. Hide the yarn end on the inside. Legs In black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) х 3 (9) Rnd 3: 3 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc (7) Rnd 4: 3 sc, 2 slst, 2 sc (7) Rnds 5-9 (5 rounds): sc in every st. (7) Cut the yarn, leaving a tail 10 cm long. Put stuffing inside. Weave the yarn tail through the front loops and pull tight to close. Hide the yarn end on the inside. Tail In black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnds 2-12 (11 rounds): sc in every st. (6) Don’t stuff. Fold the piece in half, and crochet the edges of both layers together with sc. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Attach the legs to the body using thread fastening. Sew the tail to the body. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 16 Collar In purple yarn ch18. Start working from the 2nd loop from the hook, 1 slst in every st. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Put on the collar and sew it at the back Pompom Hat In green yarn ch27. Work in turning rows. Row 1: start working from the 3rd loop from the hook, 25 hdc along the chain, ch2, turn (25) Rows 2-30 (29 rows): BLO – hdc in every st., ch2, turn (25) Row 31: BLO – hdc in every st. (25) Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Fold the rectangle in half and sew the edges. With the same yarn, make running stitches along the crown of the hat and gather the opening. Make a pompom and attach it to the hat. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 17 Boba Start in black yarn. Work in spiral. Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6) Rnd 2: 6 inc (12) Rnd 3: BLO (3 sc, inc) х 3 (15) Change yarn to light orange, cut the black one. Rnd 4: BLO sc in every st. (15) Rnd 5: sc in every st. (15) Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) х 3 (18) Rnds 7-9 (3 rounds): sc in every st. (18) Change yarn to light gray, cut the orange one. Rnd 10: BLO (5 sc, inc) х 3 (21) Rnd 11: sc in every st. (21) Put stuffing inside. Rnd 12: BLO sc in every st. (21) Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) х 7 (14) Rnd 14: 7 dec (7) Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Add more stuffing. Attach black yarn to the unused loop of round 2 and crochet 1 slst in every leftover stitch. Fasten off and hide the yarn ends inside. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 18 Straw In black yarn ch9. Start working from the 2nd loop from the hook, 8 slst along the chain, ch1, turn crocheting, 8 slst on the other side of the chain. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Put the straw in the glass and sew the stick's end to the fiberfill. Weave the yarn tail through the front loops and pull tight to close. Hide the yarn ends on the inside. Embroider balls on the glass with black yarn using the French knot stitch. With light orange yarn, wrap the half loops of round 9. Hide the yarn end inside. © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 19 Assembly and decoration Create two oval eye shapes from black felt, picking the size and style you prefer. Ensure the eyes are no larger than 2 cm. Stick them onto the cloak. Remember to flip the cloak inside out before attaching the eyes. To have the ghost hold a pumpkin, glass, or book, sew the item onto the cloak first, then sew on the hands. Once everything is set, all that's left is to add a touch of blush to the cheeks. Check out the video at the link to learn how to make glasses: https://youtu.be/u6_GF1xykLo Congratulations, your ghost friends are ready! © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends» / page 20 BOO! by Emma Walsh Here you are, dressed up for the night, You knock and knock hopping to fright, Instead I am dressed up too, I give you a fright when I yell BOO! If showing your work on Instagram, don’t forget to tag me with @mycrochetwonders and to use hashtag #design_by_chuchkalova! More patterns to be found in my Etsy shop etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonder Thank you for crocheting with me! See you next time! © 2024 Marina Chuchkalova // mycrowonder.etsy.com // Crochet pattern «Ghost Friends Frog» / page 22
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/p/crochet-pattern-for-harley-quinn-pig-plush-toy


en - English [Year] Thang Nguyen [Date] Hi there, I want to thank you for supporting me and purchasing this pattern. It means a lot to me, that motivates me to create more and more products in the future. Hope that you will enjoy this pattern and have a fun time to make this by yourself! It took me a long time to design this pattern, so I would appreciate if no part of this pattern might be reproduced, distributed, resold or transmitted in any form or by any means. I would love to see your product, so just tag me (@jenniedolly_) on Instagram to let me know. You may sell the finished toy made from this pattern, please give credit to Jenniedolly. With love, PATTERN NOTE: MATERIALS (4/0) 2.5 mm crochet hook • Finished size: the finished toy is approximately 16cm high. Sport yarn (160m/50gr): white yarn, TIPS: cream yarn, pink yarn, red yarn, brown • Make invisible decrease stitches to have a better result. yarn, black yarn 6mm black beads or toy safety eyes Needle for sewing Toy stuffing (fiberfill) Stitch marker, scissors • Add toy stuffing according to instruction of each part. • Stitches should be close together so that when the finished toy is stuffed, the stuffing does not come out through gaps in the stitches. ABBREVIATIONS st stitch ch chain slst slip stitch sc single crochet hdc half double crochet dc double crochet inc increase dec decrease BLO back loop only FLO front loop only HEAD (start in cream yarn) Rnd 1: start 7 sc in a magic ring [7] Rnd 2: inc in all 7 st [14] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [21] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [28] Rnd 5: sc in next st, inc in next st, (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 2 st [35] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [42] Rnd 7: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 3 st [49] Rnd 8: sc in all 49 st [49] Rnd 9: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 7 times [56] Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 56 st [56] Rnd 14: sc in next 12 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 12 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 12 st [64] Rnd 15: sc in all 64 st [64] Rnd 16: sc in next 21 st, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st, inc in next st, sc in next 21 st [66] Rnd 17 – 20: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 21: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 22: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 10 times [50] Rnd 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 10 times [40] Rnd 24: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 10 times [30] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 10 stitches apart. Fasten off. Stuff the head firmly with fiberfill. NOSE (start in pink yarn) Ch 5. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: Skip the first ch on the hook, inc in next ch, sc in next 2 ch, inc in next ch. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 2 ch, inc in next ch [10] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, slst [16] Then sew the nose between rounds 12 and 17. Embroider the nose with brown yarn. HAT (start in red yarn, the first stitch of the next row will be always in the same stitch as the chain) Rnd 1: start ch 2, (5 dc in red yarn, 5 dc in black yarn) in a magic ring, slst [10] Rnd 2: ch 2, inc in next 5 st, inc in next 5 st, slst [20] Rnd 3: ch 2, (dc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times, (dc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times, slst [30] Rnd 4: ch 2, (dc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times, (dc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times, slst [40] Rnd 5: ch 1, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, inc in next st, (dc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times, (dc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times, inc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, slst [50] From here on work in rows. Turn your work after each row. Rnd 6: slst in next 2 st, ch 2, dc in next 23 st, dc in next 23 st, turn [46] Rnd 7: ch 2, dec, dc in next 21 st, dc in next 21 st, dec, turn [44] Rnd 8: ch 2, dc in next 22 st, dc in next 22 st, turn [44] Rnd 9: ch 2, dc in next 22 st, dc in next 22 st, turn [44] Rnd 10: ch 1, inc in next st, sc in next 21 st, sc in next 21 st, inc in next st, turn [46] Rnd 11: ch 1, sc in next 23 st, sc in next 23 st, turn [46] Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in next 23 st, sc in next 23 st [46] Rnd 13: ch 5, ch 5, then slst on the opposite side of the start of the row, from here on work in round, ch 1, sc in next 23 st, sc in next 28 st, sc in next 5 st, slst [56] Fasten off. Hide all the yarn tails between the stitches. Then put the head into the hat. TOP HAT (make 2, one in red yarn, one in black yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [8] Rnd 3: sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: sc in next 4 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st [12] Rnd 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 7: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st [14] Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st [16] Rnd 9: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 10: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 11: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [24] Rnd 12: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 13: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [28] Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 28 st [28] Fasten off, leaving the yarn tail. Fold the top hat and sew at the marked point (picture below). Add fiberfill into the rest of the top hat. Then sew the top hat on both side of the hat. POM POM (make 2, start in white yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Adding fiberfill. Rnd 6: 6 dec [6] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving the yarn tail. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Leave a long tail for sewing into the hat. LEFT LEG (start in cream yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 8: sc in all 18 st [18] Change to black yarn. Rnd 9: BLO sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 18 st [18] Slst in next st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail. Stuff the left leg firmly with fiberfill. Make the ruffle: Turn the leg, working in the FLO of round 9, attach red yarn: (ch3, slst) repeat 18 times. Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail. RIGHT LEG (start in cream yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 8: sc in all 18 st [18] Change to red yarn. Rnd 9: BLO sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 18 st [18] Slst in next st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail. Stuff the left leg firmly with fiberfill. Make the ruffle: Turn the leg, working in the FLO of round 9, attach black yarn: (ch3, slst) repeat 18 times. Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail. Leave the remaining stitches unworked. Stuff the right leg firmly with fiberfill. Do not fasten off and continue working the body. BODY (start in red yarn) Rnd 14: ch 3 in red yarn, skip first st from the slst at the end of the left leg, sc in next 18 st around the left leg in red yarn, sc in one edge of next 2 ch in red yarn and 1 ch in black yarn, sc in next 18 st around the right leg in black yarn, sc in the unworked edge of next 2 ch in black yarn and 1 ch in red yarn [42] Rnd 15: sc in next 16 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 15 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st [48] Rnd 16: sc in next 18 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 21 st, sc in next 2 st [50] Rnd 17 – 20: sc in next 23 st, sc in next 25 st, sc in next 2 st [50] Rnd 21: sc in next 15 st, dec, sc in next 6 st, sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 18 st, sc in next 2 st [48] Rnd 22: sc in next 22 st, sc in next 24 st, sc in next 2 st [48] Rnd 23: sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [42] Rnd 24 – 25: sc in next 19 st, sc in next 21 st, sc in next 2 st [42] Rnd 26: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next 5 st, dec, (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next 5 st, dec [36] Rnd 27 – 28: sc in next 17 st, sc in next 18 st, sc in next st [36] Rnd 29: BLO sc in next 3 st, dec, (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times, (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next st [30] Make the collar: Turn the body, working in the FLO of round 29, attach white yarn: Rnd 1: ch 1, sc in next 36 st, slst [36] Rnd 2: ch 2, 3 dc in next 36 st, slst [108] Fasten off. Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill. Pin and sew the head to the body. RIGHT ARM (start in cream yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to black yarn. Rnd 7: BLO sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 8 – 14: sc in all 12 st [12] both layers to close the opening. Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing. Pin and sew the arm in both side of the body. Make the ruffle: Turn the arm, working in the FLO of round 7, attach red yarn: (ch 3, slst) repeat 12 times. Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail. Do not stuff the arm. Flatten the opening of the arm and sew through LEFT ARM (start in cream yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to red yarn. Rnd 7: BLO sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 8 – 14: sc in all 12 st [12] Do not stuff the arm. Flatten the opening of the arm and sew through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing. Pin and sew the arm in both side of the body. *Make the ruffle: Turn the arm, working in the FLO of round 7, attach black yarn: (ch 3, slst) repeat 12 times. Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail Last step: Use powder blush for the cheek. Yayy, your Harley Quinn Pig – comic version is all done. I hope you had fun making him. It will be my pleasure if you share your creation with me (see how at start of the pattern). Love ya 9
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en - English Crochet pattern The little snowman Designed by Kamalina Elizabeth Instagram: @ka.malinka_toys Vkontakte: https://vk.com/kamalinaliza Email: ekamalina@mail.ru 1 Use of the pattern: Thank you for purchasing my pattern! Please, note that this pattern does not include the lessons on crochet techniques. Level of difficulty: intermediate. The finished product using the materials described in this pattern is 4.8-5.2 inches / 12-13 cm tall. This pattern is a work of authorship, and it intends only for personal use. Full or partial reproduction and distribution, sales, and publications of the pattern and videos on the Internet are forbidden! If you purchased this pattern through a different source, please report me through the contacts listed below. Thank you for your understanding and appreciation! You are welcome to sell the ready product credit to my pattern is appreciated. I would love to see your ready toys through the hashtag: #вяжу_с_камалинкой Be free to ask me any questions according to work, and I would do my best to answer you! !=) 2 The required materials: 1. DK weight yarn, YarnArt Jeans: a) Dark gray (color 28) b) White (color 01) c) Orange (color 77) d) Gray (color 46) e) Green (color 69) f) Light green (color 29) g) Brown (color 40) 2. Safety eyes D=5-6 mm 3. Stuffing material (fiberfill/polyester) 4. 2.0 mm crochet hook 5. Thin black thread for the embroidery of eyebrows, eyes, and eyelashes 6. Tapestry needle 7. Scissors 8. Dry pink pastel 9. Two small green buttons 3 Abbreviations (US): MR – magic ring Ch - chain Sc – single crochet Inc - increase (make 2 single crochet in 1 stitch) Dec – decrease (make 2 single crochet together) DC – double crochet HDC – half double crochet BLO/FLO – back/front loops only Sl st – slip stitch 5 DC popcorn – 5 double crochet popcorn (…) – The number of stitches in the round 4 Head - body: With white color yarn: 1. 8sc into MR 2. (1sc,3inc)2 (14) 3. 2sc, 3inc, 4sc, 3inc, 2sc (20) 4. 2sc, (1sc,inc)3, 4sc, (1sc,inc)3, 2sc (26) 5. 2sc, (inc,2sc)3, 4sc, (inc,2sc)3, 2sc (32) 6. 2sc, (3sc,inc)3, 4sc, (3sc,inc)* 3, 2sc (38) 7. 2sc, (inc,4sc)3, 4sc, (inc,4sc)3, 2sc (44) 8. 10sc, 2inc, 20sc, 2inc, 10sc (48) 9. (7sc,inc)6 (54) 10. 4sc, inc, (8sc,inc)5, 4sc (60) 11-19. 60sc (9 rounds) 20. 4sc, dec, (8sc,dec)5, 4sc (54) 21. (7sc,dec)6 (48) If you use safety eyes, then install them between rounds 15-16. The distance between the eyes is 12 sc. 22. 3sc, dec, (6sc,dec)5, 3sc (42) 23. (5sc,dec)6 (36) 24. 2sc, dec, (4sc,dec)5, 2sc (30) 25. (3sc,dec)6 (24) Begin to stuff the part with fiberfill. 26. 1sc, dec, (2sc,dec)5, 1sc (18) 27. 1sc, inc, (2sc,inc)5, 1sc (24) 28. (3sc,inc)6 (30) 29. 30sc (30) 30. 2sc, inc, (4sc,inc)5, 2sc (36) 31. (5sc,inc)6 (42) 32. 42sc (42) 33. 3sc, inc, (6sc,inc)5, 3sc (48) 34. (7sc,inc)6 (54) 35-39. 54sc (5 rounds) 40. (7sc,dec)6 (48) 41. 3sc, dec, (6sc,dec)5, 3sc (42) 5 42. (5sc,dec)6 (36) 43. 2sc, dec, (4sc,dec)5, 2sc (30) 44. (3sc,dec)6 (24) 45. 1sc, dec, (2sc,dec)5, 1sc (18) 46. (1sc,dec)6 (12) 47. (dec)6 (6) Complete stuffing with fiberfill (stuff the neck with fiberfill firmly). Tighten the hole, break yarn and hide the yarn tail inside. Carrot-nose: With orange color yarn: 1. 6sc into MR 2-3. 6sc (2 rounds) 4. (1sc,inc)3 (9) 5-6. 9sc (2 rounds) 7. (2sc, inc)3 (12) 8. 12sc 9. (2sc, dec)3 (9) Stuff with fiberfill. Fasten off, and break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew it to the middle of the head between rounds 15-19. 6 Arms: With brown color yarn: 1. 8sc into MR 2-6. 8sc (5 rounds) 7. 5DC popcorn,7sc (8) 8. (dec,2sc)2 (6) We fill only up to the 9th row. 9-16. 6sc (8 rounds) 7 Flatten together and crochet 3sc through both loops. Fasten off and break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Crochet the second arms similar to the first. We sew hands between 29-30 rows (the distance between the hands in front is 12sc). 8 With dark gray color yarn: 1. 6sc into MR Legs: 2. (inc)6 (12) 3. (1sc,inc)6 (18) 4. BLO: (1sc,dec)6 (12) 5. 3sc, 3dec, 3sc (9) Stuff with fiberfill. Fasten off, and break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Crochet the second leg similarly. Sew on the legs between 7-11 rows (counting from bottom to top) at a distance of 11-12 sc. 9 Bucket: With gray color yarn: 1. 8sc into MR 2. (inc)8 (16) 3. (1sc,inc)8 (24) 4. 1sc, inc, (2sc,inc)7, 1sc (32) 5. BLO: 32sc 6. 32sc 7-12. 32sc (6 rounds) 13. (3sc,inc)8 (40) 10 14-15. 40sc (2 rounds) 16. (4sc, inc)8 (48) 17. (21sc,hdc, 3dc in one loop, hdc)2 Fasten off and break yarn. Sew to the head if desired. Bucket handle: Chain 31 with dark grey color yarn and secure it. Sew the handle to the bucket. Scarf: Work in back and forth rows and chain 1 at the beginning of each row. 11 Chain 6 with light green color yarn. We start working with the third chain from the hook: 1. 4DC, turn 2-6. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (5 rounds) Change to green: 7-12. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Change to light green: 13-18. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Change to green: 19-24. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Change to light green: 25-30. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Change to green: 31-36. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Change to light green: 37-42. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Change to green: 43-48. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Change to light green: 49-54. 2t-ch, 4DC, turn (6 rounds) Do not break yarn, crochet across the edge of the scarf in single crochet, fasten off, break yarn and hide the tail. 12 1. We embroider the brows, the eyelash line above the eyes and the mouth with a thin black thread. 2. Draw the cheeks with dry pastel. 3. Sew on two buttons on the body. 13 Your toy is finished! See you soon! I would love to see your ready toys through the hashtag #вяжу_с_камалинкой 14
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en - English METEOOR BOOKS Animal Friends of Pica Pau 3 Gather All 20 Quirky Amigurumi Characters Yan Schenkel © 2022 Meteoor BV (BE0550756201) First published September 2022 by Meteoor Books, Antwerp, Belgium www.meteoorbooks.com hello@meteoorbooks.com Have you made characters with patterns from this book? Share your creations on www.amigurumi.com/4100 or on Instagram with #animalfriendsofpicapau3 Photography: Yan Schenkel & Matías Gorostegui Illustrations: Yan Schenkel ISBN 9789491643446 D/2022/13.531/4 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 PLEASE NOTE THIS BOOK IS COPYRIGHT PROTECTED. ESTE LIBRO ESTÁ PROTEGIDO POR DERECHOS DE AUTOR. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of the publisher and copyright owner. The book is sold subject to the condition that all designs are copyright and are not for commercial or educational reproduction without the permission of the designer and copyright owner. The publisher and authors can accept no legal responsibility for any consequences arising from the application of information, advice or instructions given in this publication. YAN SCHENKEL ANIMAL FRIENDS OF METEOOR BOOKS INDEX 6 INTRODUCTION 9 10 When crocheting my patterns Amigurumi gallery 12 TOOLS AND SUPPLIES 12 14 14 Crochet hook Sizes Crochet hook conversions 15 15 15 15 16 Yarn Cotton Wools Synthetic fibers Fiber weight 17 Other essential tools and supplies 18 CROCHET INTRODUCTION 18 18 18 18 Hold the hook and yarn (hand position) Pencil grip Knife grip Hold the yarn 18 STITCHES 19 19 19 20 20 21 21 Slip knot Chain stitch (abbreviation: ch) Foundation chain Turning chain Back ridge or back bump of a chain Slip stitch (abbreviation: slst) Join a chain ring with a slip stitch (tubular foundation chain) Single crochet (abbreviation: sc) In rows (flat fabric) In a spiral (a tube) Insert the hook (placement of stitches) Difference between v and x single crochet Half double crochet (abbreviation: hdc) In rows (flat fabric) Half double slip stitch (abbreviation: hdslst) In rows (flat fabric) Double crochet (abbreviation: dc) In rows (flat fabric) 22 22 23 23 24 25 25 26 26 27 27 Bobble stitch (abbreviation: 5-dc-bobble) Basket spike stitch Spike single crochet (spike) In a spiral (a tube) Crab stitch or reverse single crochet Increases and decreases Increase (abbreviation: inc) Decrease (abbreviation: dec) Working in spirals Magic ring Crocheting around a foundation chain Changing color and joining yarn Jacquard and tapestry Fastening off Weave in the yarn end on a flat fabric Weave in the yarn end on a stuffed piece Embroidery Joining parts (sewing) Joining open pieces Joining an open end piece with a closed piece 28 29 29 29 30 31 31 31 32 32 34 35 36 37 37 37 38 39 39 39 READING A PATTERN 40 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 40 Parentheses and brackets 42 PATTERNS 44 50 56 64 70 76 82 88 96 104 112 118 124 130 138 146 152 158 164 170 Lucas red fox Gilbert rabbit Olivia Rosemary mouse Horacio polar bear Ron red panda Angus squirrel Humboldt penguin Tina lemur Ramona cow Peggy hippopotamus Mabel hedgehog Indiana moth Alberto seagull Astrid ostrich Greta hen Cosmo snail Angelica whale Roberto dachshund Amelia giraffe Eduardo cutesaurus obviously). I also loved teaching, not only techniques and stitches, but teach others to find that fragile balance between self-criticism and selfpatience, to be kind to ourselves, especially during a learning process. Here we are again. My third/fourth (and first?) book of crocheted critters. Yes, it’s complicated. It’s my third book in English, it will be my fourth in Spanish and French, but this book has some reworked animals that were part of my first. It’s like a new music album with remastered old tunes and a bunch of new songs! Many years have passed, and my way of crocheting toys has evolved. Alike many crocheters, I used to sell my makes. Selling my handmade toys was my full-time job for about 9 years. For this reason, my original patterns were simpler and thus faster to crochet in large quantities. I must have crocheted hundreds and hundreds of toys (I made Lucas fox at least 500 times!). I knew the patterns by heart so I could crochet arms, ears, and heads to fill any empty moment (I was often caught crocheting on public transport). Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 So, I was a full-time mom and in my “spare-time” I worked as crocheter, designer, photographer, and social media manager. Oh! and I was having a book published. My first book, “El mundo de Pica Pau” (“The world of Pica Pau”) was released in my home country Argentina, back in 2015. We are all absorbed with the idea of having to be productive all the time, having the result as soon as possible, even in our spare time. We do not allow ourselves to slow down and truly observe. We are not able to let our work rest a night so we can gain perspective. Or to stop and enjoy the view (and even smell the roses, if you can). It is essential to understand where you are standing and what it is that you want in your life. On a smaller scale, slowing down has benefits as well. A crochet project that does not turn out the way we want, or with a new technique or stitch that we do not fully grasp, can cause frustration. We need to slow down, learn to handle this frustration and our urge to do everything economically - fast and efficient. We cannot be productive 24/7, even in our spare time or hobbies. Many years ago, when I was studying arts, a teacher used to tell me: “let the work rest”. One day, one week, one month. Let it rest, take the time to look at your work with rested eyes, a fresh head. Only then you decide if it's worth continuing, if you should redo a part, or throw it away and start over again. You must allow - and enjoy - the learning process. And yes, I was proud of being able to juggle all those balls, it felt like my superpower. But, at the same time, I was tired all the time and I wasn’t enjoying my craft anymore. The hobby that had become a side job which then became my full-time job, gradually started to consume my creative energy… So, I stopped and asked myself what I wanted in life. So, to keep it short (or not): SLOW DOWN. We are here to learn, to enjoy the journey. We crochet. It's a manual process that involves our entire body the tension, the touch, the movement when making each stitch, our thoughts, the tension (again), our breathing. This pastime allows us to create, with only a thread of yarn and a hook, stitch by stitch. And that in itself is marvelous. I realized that what made me happiest was designing, drawing, experimenting until this vivid idea I had in mind came to life. I could enjoy days crocheting a new piece until I got it just right (all while watching my favorite TV-series and movies, 6 7 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 8 WHEN CROCHETING MY PATTERNS As with my previous books, this one is also divided into two main areas: a tools, basic stitches and techniques section, followed by the patterns. It’s important to keep in mind that the skill level listed with a pattern is often subjective. Maybe you feel more comfortable crocheting the four-legged Eduardo Cutesaurus, than making the jacquard for the face of Ron Red Panda. And I'm guessing that you will simply begin with the one character that stole your heart, regardless of the skill level. In addition to the basics in the first part of the book, you will find tips, techniques and step by step pictures throughout the book. While working in one pattern, I may refer back to the techniques in a previous pattern. Practice every new stitch, every new technique, until you move your hands without thinking. Take your time, find your own pace. If you are new to crochet, make hundreds of chain stitches until you try the next stitch. Allow yourself the time to enjoy the process of learning a new craft. Remember that there are no hard rules about stitches or techniques. Do what you find most comfortable or most natural, do YOU. But, if you really want your toys to look like the ones in the photos, there a couple of things that I can share: What kind of single crochet stitch are you making? There are two versions of the basic stitch when making toys. Which one is the best? Neither. Or both. I want you to know both and recognize them, so you can choose intentionally and are aware that the result will be different. When I make my toys, I crochet them with the X-shaped single crochet, the “yarn under” single crochet, which looks like an X or cross. This stitch is more compact because you twist the yarn when you make that first yarn under. Your result will be a tighter and smaller stitch, and thus a more compact toy. Toys made with X-shaped single crochet are likely going to be a little longer than wide, and the fabric will be less fluid. There’s also quite a difference when making color changes. The X-shape is much like a square, like a pixel, and sometimes these stitches seem to align better. When crocheting jacquard patterns, the line between the color changes will seem straighter. But beware, if there are many rounds of color changes, you will always see that line turning to one side at some point, because you are working in spirals. Please, try to embrace the “imperfection”. Yes, I know it’s difficult, but it’s part of our craft. Second, you have the V-shaped single crochet, the more classic "yarn over" stitch. This results in a more fluid fabric and a softer toy, probably bigger, a bit wider and less tall. Keep in mind that these characteristics go for all the pieces you crochet. A snout crocheted with the X-shape will look thinner and longer than one crocheted in V-shaped single crochet. You can find more info on how to make the X or V-shaped single crochet on page 24. What yarn do you use? I use cotton yarn, a particularly thick one, which would fall into the worsted weight category (100 g/170m). Any other yarn weight you may use will, obviously, change the size of the finished toy. And, if you are using acrylic yarn or wool, 9 your toy will be less rigid, fluffier, because these yarns are more elastic. So, if you decide to use a V-shaped single crochet with acrylic or wool, the toy might be fluffier, rounder, and bigger than the ones you see in my book. And that’s perfect too. The tension Oh! The tension! This one is difficult because it’s the one variable that is close-to-impossible to change… at least at first. And that’s why I always recommend changing hook sizes instead of trying to change your natural tension. When I started crocheting toys, I squeezed my stitches because I was afraid the fiberfill would show through. I made my stitches so tight that my hands hurt from tensing them and trying to get the hook through this compact and dense fabric. And my hands, my whole body, didn't feel relaxed at all. With time, I started to loosen up my stiches, I became more relaxed. Basically, I started to crochet more confidently, almost without thinking. Now, after many years of crocheting every single day, I can control the tension a little more and switch yarn weights without changing the hook size. But there is always one combo of yarn and hook that works best, and in my case, this is worsted weight yarn with a 2.75 mm crochet hook. If I could give you only one piece of advice, it is for you to experiment. • Try both ways of making the single crochet… maybe you even find a third. • Try different yarns and yarn weights. In fact, if you have the time, make two version of the same piece using cotton yarn and acrylic or wool, same yarn weight, same • crochet hook, so you can feel which one you prefer. And continue playing, trying out hooks and yarns, so you may find that perfect match that allows your natural tension to flow without effort. With time and practice you will notice that your stitches are neater, that the fabric is more even, and your hands don’t hurt anymore. And always remember that you are making HANDMADE toys. There will never be two crocheted pieces that look exactly the same. Imperfection is inevitably part of the process. Tension for clothes and accessories With a little practice, your tension for amigurumi will become consistent. You merely need to use the right crochet hook to get a tight but fluid fabric. However, if you want to make matching clothes for your stuffed toys, it can be important to test whether the outfit will fit while crocheting. Many crocheters have different tensions when they crochet in rounds or rows. You don't want to find out at the very end that you've crocheted a pair of pants a few sizes too big. If you notice that the outfit is getting too big, you can pick a smaller crochet hook to make your crochet fabric a little tighter and therefore smaller. If, on the other hand, the clothes become too small, it would be advised to use a slightly larger crochet hook to make your crochet fabric a bit looser and therefore larger. Some outfits in this book are crocheted with a thinner yarn. Make sure not to overlook this detail. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 AMIGURUMI GALLERY With each pattern, I have included a URL and a QR code that will take you to that character’s dedicated online gallery. Share your finished amigurumi, find inspiration in the color and yarn choices of your fellow crocheters and enjoy the fun of crocheting. Simply follow the link or scan the QR code with your mobile phone. Phones with iOS will scan the QR code automatically in camera mode. For phones with Android you may need to install a QR Reader app first. 10 11 TOOLS AND SUPPLIES Wooden and bamboo hooks are gorgeous and some brands have the most incredibly smooth finish, but I only recommend them if you are going to work with thicker yarns or crochet garments with looser stitches. The same goes for plastic and acrylic hooks, they’re sometimes used to work with thicker materials, such as T-shirt yarn. I haven’t tried these, as they seem less sturdy. Every experienced crocheter has her/his favorite tools and materials, in addition to a well-formed opinion on the best techniques and the things you should always avoid. Of course, as in any other aspect of life, we do not always agree. Although each one of us has their own taste and point of view, we all acknowledge that one of the most wonderful things about crochet is that with basic tools and a strand of yarn you can create almost anything. The only thing that you need to keep in mind is that highquality hooks and yarn can save you hours of frustration. Whenever possible, choose quality over quantity. Hooks and needles do have the habit of getting lost, so make sure you always have a backup, especially of the ones you love and use all the time. Besides the material of the hook, it’s always wise to check the anatomy of the hook. As for the point: I prefer a rounded and blunt tip, with no rough edges so it doesn’t split the yarn and slides through the stitches easily. CROCHET HOOK Note: I didn’t try all the hooks available on the market and it’s impossible for me to estimate exactly what kind of hook will be the best for you. This is a quest you must follow all by yourself. But I do not want to leave you entirely in the dark, so I’m going to tell you what I have learned these past 13 years crocheting toys. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Also pay attention to the throat of the crochet hook. This part does the actual hooking (catching) of the yarn and allows you to pull it through the stitches and loops. You need a hook with a throat large enough to grab the yarn that you’re working with, but small enough to prevent the previous loop from sliding off. This is especially important when crocheting toys, as you are going to use a crochet hook two or three sizes smaller than recommended for your yarn. Another thing to keep in mind is the handle. I can say almost without a doubt that this is the most personal decision of all. In my case, as I hold the crochet hook like a knife (see page 18), I prefer to use crochet hooks without big handles. But if you hold it like a pencil, you will probably prefer the ones with an ergonomic or a rubber handle. You may have noticed that, apart from different sizes, crochet hooks come in different materials. The choice for a material depends on your own preference. However, if you are planning to use cotton yarn, I strongly recommend working with stainless steel or aluminum hooks. Aluminum hooks are a great choice as they slip easily between stitches, are super light and come in the widest range of sizes. The thinnest aluminum hooks (less than 4 mm) might bend if you apply a lot of pressure, which happens when crocheting tightly. To avoid this, choose the ones with silicon, plastic, wood or bamboo handles or go for a stainless-steel hook (my personal favorite, as I tend to be a little rough on them). Hooks are like pens: we can crochet with any hook until we find the one that changes our lives. Yes, it’s a bit dramatic, but it’s true. And if it doesn’t change your life, it will definitely change the way you crochet, especially if you do it all day long. 12 HEAD TIP / POINT SHAFT HANDLE THUMB REST THROAT 13 Sizes As a basic guide, a thicker thread needs a bigger hook and makes a larger stitch. If you crochet loosely, use a smaller hook to tighten your crochet fabric, and if you crochet tightly, use a larger hook to loosen your fabric. The hook size should be what’s comfortable for you to use to obtain the desired result. It’s easier to change the size of the hook than to modify the pressure you apply, as everyone tends to have a "natural" tension. Hook sizes are indicated using different, land-specific systems, drawing on either numbers or letters or a combination of both. In the table below you can find the three most common systems in use: the metric system, the UK system and the US system. In this book I mention the metric and US size of the hook. Crochet hook conversions METRIC UK 2 mm 2.25 mm 2.5 mm 2.75 mm 3 mm 3.25 mm 3.5 mm 3.75 mm 4 mm 4.5 mm 5 mm 5.5 mm 6 mm 6.5 mm 7 mm 8 mm 9 mm 10 mm 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 0 00 000 US Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 14 B-1 C-2 D-3 E-4 F-5 G-6 7 H-8 I-9 J-10 K-10.5 L-11 M-13 N-15 structure of the fabric, making it harder to know where to insert the hook. YARN We can use almost any material that can be worked into a thread: wool, cotton, string, ribbon, fabric, leather, wire, even plastic bags or paper. Each kind of thread has its pros and cons. Allow yourself to experiment with different materials, it’s the best way to learn and find what you like the most and what is most suitable for your project. Always try to buy quality yarns, ones that are pleasant to the touch and comfortable to crochet with. Synthetic fibers Made of polymers, synthetic yarns are usually spun into a thread that resembles the texture and feel of animal fibers. Although they’re cheaper and slip on the hook nicely, some tend to pill (form little fuzzballs on the surface) and create static. Nevertheless, it’s one of the most commonly chosen yarns to make toys with because of the incredible range of colors. I myself am not such a big fan of the glossy finish, but, like everything in life, it’s a matter of taste. Cotton Cotton is the most commonly used fiber for crocheting toys and, in my opinion, the one that gives the best result. It’s a natural vegetable fiber made from cellulose. (Other threads composed of vegetable fibers are flax, jute, rayon, bamboo, hemp, etc.) In addition to being a hypoallergenic material, cotton is extremely durable, easy to wash, very soft, and has plenty of color options to choose from! This thread has practically no elasticity, which is something you definitely want when making toys (so the toy keeps its shape). However, because of this lack of elasticity, the hook may not slide easily and sometimes, as cotton yarn is made up of several strands, the thread can be frayed by the hook. You can find cotton threads in a variety of presentations: from more "rustic" and opaque ones, over shiny, mercerized cottons and combed ones (with threads that were combed to remove short fibers, to obtain more strength and softness). Wools Another type of natural fibers are the protein ones, the fibers that come from animal hair, like sheep’s wool, alpaca, angora and mohair, or from insect secretions, like silk. These yarns are more elastic than yarns made of vegetable fibers, so you have to keep in mind that toys made with this kind of yarn might lose their shape over time. Beginners should avoid the hairiest ones (like angora and mohair), because the furry texture hides the 15 Fiber weight The yarn's weight is its thickness, in other words the relationship between the weight and the number of meters. For example, a super fine thread used for lace may have about 800 meters in 100 grams, while a jumbo yarn, like the ones used for those super chunky blankets, may have less than 100 meters in the same weight. Internationally, most books and yarn manufacturers rely on standard terms to indicate yarn weight. The number of strands (or PLY) is mentioned optionally because an increase of plies doesn’t mean that the yarn will be heavier (in fact, an 8-ply yarn formed of tightly twisted plies may be thinner than a loosely twisted 6-ply yarn). NUMBER NAME TYPES OF YARN IN CATEGORY PLY m/100 gr RECOMMENDED HOOK SIZE FOR GARMENTS (mm) 0 Lace Fingering 1-2 ply 600-800 or more 1.5 - 2.5 1 Super Fine Sock, Fingering, Baby 3-4 ply 350-600 2.25 - 3.5 2 Fine Sport, Baby 5 ply 250-350 3.5 - 4.5 3 Light DK (double knitting), Light Worsted 8 ply 200-250 4.5 - 5.5 4 Medium Worsted, Afghan, Aran 10-12 ply 120-200 5.5 - 6.5 5 Bulky Chunky, Craft, Rug 12-16 ply 100-130 6.5 - 9 6 Super Bulky Super Bulky, Super Chunky, Roving Less than 100 9 and larger 7 Jumbo Jumbo, Roving Less than 100 15 and larger Note: The yarn weight and the hook should always relate to each other. Most importantly, always keep in mind that when making toys, you’ll have to use a hook two or three sizes smaller than what is recommended for crocheting a garment (as stated in the table above). After all, we want a dense fabric that won’t allow the stuffing to show through. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Note: The photo on page 17 shows the same character crocheted with 3 different yarn weights. The largest and original rabbit has been made with worsted weight yarn and a 2.75 mm hook. The middle one was made with DK weight yarn and a 2.75 mm hook. The smallest rabbit was made with fingering weight yarn and a 2.00 mm hook. 16 OTHER ESSENTIAL TOOLS AND SUPPLIES Yarn and tapestry needles are used for joining motifs, sewing and finishing pieces. They have a blunt tip, so you don't split the thread or the crochet stitches. They also have a large eye that allows thicker yarns to pass through. washer that goes inside the toy. If it’s fastened correctly, it’s practically impossible to remove. Be careful that the eye is where you want it to be before attaching it! If you’re afraid that a tenacious child can pull them out, you can apply universal glue before placing them on the toy. Alternatively, you can embroider the facial features (especially if the toy is gifted to children under the age of three). I have a thing for scissors, so I have a lot of them in different shapes and sizes. Choose a small, lightweight pair of scissors with sharp points. A stitch marker, as the name suggests, is a tool used to mark a stitch. You can find them in a variety of shapes and qualities. Alternatively, you can use paper clips, safety pins or hair clips to help you indicate the round, row or any location on the worked piece. When crocheting in rounds, always mark the first (or the last) stitch of the previous round. I don’t use a lot of pins, but they come in handy when you have to attach the head or limbs to the body of a toy. Try to get plastic or glassheaded ones: they’re easy to spot in your crochetwork and their large head prevents them from slipping through the stitches. For stuffing I always use polyester fiberfill, the same filling used to stuff cushions. It’s easy to find in any craft shop, and it’s inexpensive, washable and hypoallergenic. Stuffing a toy can be trickier than it seems: overstuffing might stretch the fabric and show through. Too little stuffing gives the toy a sad look, as if the poor thing was deflated. Try to insert small amounts at a time, adding more at a slow pace until you get the right look. There is a great variety of extra elements to decorate crocheted toys: plastic eyes and noses in all colors and sizes, buttons, bows, ribbons, etc. For my characters, I only use plastic safety eyes. They have two parts: the front with a straight or threaded rod, plus a 17 CROCHET INTRODUCTION HOLD THE HOOK AND YARN (HAND POSITION) Holding a new tool can be a little tricky, but a couple of hours of practice and a bit of patience will do the trick. If you already know how to crochet and you feel comfortable with it, stick to it! If you’re learning, try as many ways as you like, so you can find the one most suitable for you. Usually, we handle the hook with the same hand we use to write, but it’s not a rule. No matter how you hold the hook and the yarn, the most important thing you need to know is that there is no “best way” and definitely no “right way”. Pencil grip Hold the hook as you would a pencil, grasping the hook between your thumb and index finger, in the middle of the flat section (the thumb rest). Knife grip Hold the hook in the same manner as you would hold a knife, grasping it between your thumb and index finger, resting the end of the hook against your palm. Hold the yarn The free hand is used to control the thread and hold the work. There are several methods to hold the yarn, and everyone has his or her preferred way. You only have to keep in mind that you have to maintain a steady tension while crocheting. Holding the yarn is the real deal: you will need to practice controlling the thread and make the tension feel comfortable and natural. It’s also important to keep this hand "in shape", because it’s the one that's going to be stressed. Try to exercise before and after crocheting. I know it sounds almost impossible, but please, try not to crochet too many hours in a row! Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 STITCHES There are only a handful of basic stitches and although the variations and combinations are endless, you only need to master a few to make the patterns in this book. I will explain the stitches that I’ve learned throughout the years and still use. Always remember that you can and should adapt the techniques to your own needs and possibilities. 18 SLIP KNOT The slip knot is the first loop you’ll need to make on your hook to start crocheting. The slip knot does not count as a stitch. 1 Make a loop with the yarn tail. Insert the hook into it and draw another loop through. 2 Pull the yarn tail to tighten the loop around the hook. CHAIN STITCH (abbreviation: ch) This stitch is the basis for most crochetwork: if you are working in rows, your first row will be chain stitches, known as a foundation chain. The chain stitch is also used to join motifs and as a turning stitch. 1 Holding the slip knot, wrap the yarn from back to front around the hook. This movement is called "yarn over". You can wind the yarn over the hook or twist the hook to go under the yarn. 2 Draw the hook backward to pull the yarn through the loop on the hook (the slip knot). 3 You will form a new loop on your hook. You have now made your first chain stitch. Repeat the previous steps to form as many chain stitches as required. Note: It's crucial to hold the yarn tail firmly to prevent it from spinning around the hook every time you try to yarn over. Foundation chain This is the string of chain stitches you have to crochet if you want to make a flat fabric worked in rows. It's the equivalent of casting on when you start knitting. Note: To help maintain an even foundation chain, keep changing your grip on the crocheted chains, so you are always holding them near the hook. 19 Turning chain When crocheting in rows, these are the chain stitches you have to make to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you are crocheting. Each stitch has a corresponding number of turning chains: – a row of single crochet: 1 turning chain – a row of half double crochet: 2 turning chains – a row of double crochet: 3 turning chains Note: Remember to count your stitches now and then to make sure you have the exact number of stitches required in the pattern. When counting stitches, do not count the slip knot or the loop on the hook (this is the working loop). The easiest way to count stitches is to look at the plaited tops. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Back ridge or back bump of a chain You can crochet in the chain in different ways. My favorite method for creating a nice, finished bottom edge is to crochet in the back ridge. Each chain consists of three strands of yarn. On the front you can see the two strands you are most familiar with: the top loop and the bottom loop that make up the V. When you turn the chain, you will see a third, hidden loop. This is the 'back bump'. To work in the back ridge of a chain, turn your foundation chain a little, so you can easily reach this back bump. 20 SLIP STITCH (abbreviation: slst) This stitch has no height and is hardly ever used on its own to make a crochet fabric. Instead, it’s generally used to join ends into a circle, join pieces, finish a piece or move across the stitches to another part of the work. 1 Insert the hook through both loops of the next stitch (on the foundation chain: insert in second chain from the hook). 2 Yarn over the hook and draw through both loops at once and the loop on your hook. You have now completed one slip stitch. Note: When working slip stitches in the last round or row to finish or embellish a piece, try to work the stitches a little more loosely to avoid puckering the fabric. Join a chain ring with a slip stitch (tubular foundation chain) 1 2 Insert the hook into the first chain. Make sure the chain is not twisted. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch and the loop on your hook. You can now continue working in the round. 21 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 SINGLE CROCHET (abbreviation: sc) The single crochet is THE stitch for working crocheted toys because it's the only one that results in a closed and tight fabric. The single crochet not only works excellently to maintain the shape of the toy, but also avoids that stuffing will show through (as long as we don’t stuff it too much). In rows (flat fabric) Start from a foundation chain. 1 Insert the hook in the second chain stitch from the hook. Yarn over the hook. 2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch. Now you have two loops on the hook. Yarn over the hook again. 3 Draw the hook backward to pull the yarn through both loops at once. One loop remains on the hook, and you have completed one single crochet stitch. 4 Insert the hook into the next stitch and continue crocheting into every chain stitch. 5 At the end of a row, make one turning chain and turn the work horizontally to begin the next row. Crochet one single crochet stitch into the next stitch (not counting the turning chain), inserting the hook through both loops of the stitch in the row below. Continue crocheting until the end of the row and repeat. 22 In a spiral (a tube) Start from a foundation chain. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted and insert the hook in the first chain stitch. Close into a ring by making one slip stitch in the first chain stitch. 1 Continue crocheting one single crochet stitch into each chain stitch until you reach the beginning. Work a single crochet stitch into the first single crochet you made (do not close the round with a slst). This is when the stitch marker comes in handy: place it into the last single crochet stitch you made. 2 Continue working single crochet stitches until you reach the stitch marker. Remove the marker and work a single crochet in this stitch. Replace the marker into the stitch you just made and repeat. INSERT THE HOOK (PLACEMENT OF STITCHES) With the exception of chains, for all crochet stitches the hook needs to be inserted into existing stitches. The point of the hook must look down or sideways, so the hook doesn’t snag the yarn or the fabric. When picking up stitches, you can insert the hook in three different places: the back loop, the front loop or under both loops. – BOTH LOOPS: insert the hook under both loops of the stitch in the row or round below. This is the most common way to crochet and the preferred method when the pattern doesn’t specify another way. – FRONT LOOP ONLY (abbreviation FLO): insert the hook under the one loop closest to you. – BACK LOOP ONLY (abbreviation BLO): insert the hook under the one loop furthest away from you. This leaves the front loop as a horizontal bar. It’s used for aesthetic effects or to re-join the yarn. 23 Difference between V and X single crochet If you’re an experienced crocheter you might have noticed that my stitches look slightly different from what you’re accustomed to. Instead of wrapping the yarn over my crochet hook, I wrap it under my crochet hook, that is, I "yarn under". By doing this, I get an X-shaped single crochet stitch instead of a V-shaped single crochet stitch. Apart from the different look, there are a few more differences you should know about. – Size: X-shaped single crochet is much tighter, so the result will be smaller. Vice versa, the fabric made using V-shaped single crochet is more fluid/elastic, so the toy will be softer. For example, if I make a circle of 60 stitches using X-shaped single crochet, my circle will be about 3.3 inches / 8.5 cm in diameter. If I make it using V-shaped single crochet, its diameter is about 4 inches / 10 cm. – How the stitches seem to turn around: V-shaped single crochet stitches move a little in each round, so your crochetwork appears to turn to one side. X-shaped single crochet is less likely to do this, which will give nicer results when crocheting jacquard. – How the stripe patterns look: X-shaped single crochet looks like a half double crochet stitch when making stripes in alternating colors. Yarn over. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Note: Humboldt Penguin on the left side was made with V-shaped single crochet. Humboldt on the right side was made with X-shaped single crochet. 24 Yarn under. 5 Continue crocheting into every chain stitch. 6 At the end of the row, make two turning chains and turn the work horizontally to begin the next row. Skip the turning As its name indicates, this stitch is halfway bechains and crochet one half double crochet stitch, inserttween a single crochet and a double crochet stitch ing the hook under both loops of the stitch in the row below. in height. Being a looser stitch, the fabric made Repeat until you reach the end of the row. with half double crochet stitch is more fluid and so this stitch is excellent for working toy garments. Note: I sometimes work In rows (flat fabric) between the stitches when working half Start from a foundation chain. The first two chain double or double stitches of the foundation chain are the turning crochet in rounds. It chain for the first row. creates an open effect 1 Yarn over. Insert the hook into the third chain that makes for a more from the hook and yarn over again. elastic fabric. To do 2 Draw the yarn through one loop only. You now this, insert the hook behave three loops on the hook. tween the stems of the 3 Yarn over again and draw through all three stitches, not under the loops on the hook. plaited top. Make sure to 4 You have completed the first half double count the stitches at the crochet stitch. end of your round. HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (abbreviation: hdc) 25 HALF DOUBLE SLIP STITCH (abbreviation: hdslst) This is an easy stitch to create a dense and stretchy fabric, perfect for ribbing or to make pieces that need a knit-purl look. As the name suggests, it’s a mash up of a slip stitch and a half double crochet stitch, You may also find it as Yarn Over Slip Stitch. In rows (flat fabric) Start from a foundation chain with any number of chains. Please note that the turning chain doesn’t count as a stitch. 1 Yarn over. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook 2 Yarn over again and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on the hook 3 Pull the first loop directly through the second and third loop on the hook. You have completed the first half double slip stitch. Continue crocheting into every chain stitch. At the end of the row, make a turning chain and turn the work horizontally to begin the next row. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 hdslst From the next row on, you will work in the BACK LOOP ONLY (and will be having one of the largest abbreviations in the history of crochet: BLO hdslst) to create the texture of a faux knit ribbed fabric. Row 2: 4 Yarn over. Insert the hook into the back loop of the first stitch. Yarn over and pull the first loop directly through the stitch and the second and third loop on the hook. Continue crocheting into every chain stitch till the end of the row. At the end of the row, make a turning chain and turn the work horizontally to begin the next row. Repeat row 2 until you reach the desire length. 26 2 Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops on the hook. 3 You now have two loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook one last time and draw it through both loops on the hook. 4 You have now completed one double crochet stitch. 5 Yarn over and insert the hook into the next stitch. Continue crocheting into every chain stitch. At the end of the row, make three turning chains and turn the work horizontally to begin the next row. 6 Skip the turning chains and crochet one double crochet stitch, inserting the hook under both loops of the stitch in the row below. Repeat until you reach the end of the row. DOUBLE CROCHET (abbreviation: dc) Probably the best-known crochet stitch to crochet garments and blankets. We only use it sporadically when crocheting toys. In rows (flat fabric) Start from a foundation chain. The first three chain stitches of the foundation chain are the turning chain for the first row. 1 Yarn over. Insert the hook into the fourth chain from the hook and yarn over again. Draw the yarn through the loop. You now have three loops on the hook. 27 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 BOBBLE STITCH (abbreviation: 5-dc-bobble) A bobble stitch is a cluster of double crochet stitches worked into one stitch, joined by leaving the last loop of each stitch temporarily on the hook until they are closed together at the end. I use this stitch on many of my toys to make fingers and toes. 1 Yarn over. Insert the hook into the next stitch. 2 Yarn over again and draw the yarn through the stitch. You now have three loops on the hook. 3 Yarn over the hook again and draw it through the first two loops on the hook. You now have one half-closed double crochet stitch, and two loops remaining on the hook. 4 In the same stitch, repeat the preceding steps four times. You now have 5 half-closed double crochet stitches into one stitch. 5 Yarn over and draw through all six loops on the hook at once. You have now completed one 5-dc bobble stitch. 28 BASKET SPIKE STITCH This stitch is named for its basket-rattan look. I’ve only worked it in the round because it doesn’t look so neat when crocheted in rows. Alternate one spike single crochet with a regular BLO single crochet to get the desired effect. For this stitch, I use the V-shaped single crochet in order to obtain two straight vertical lines. Spike single crochet (spike) Place your hook in the next stitch one round below (into the same place where that stitch was worked). Yarn over and draw up a loop of yarn up to the height of the actual round. Draw the yarn through both loops on your hook. In a spiral (a tube) Start from a foundation chain. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted and put the hook through the first chain stitch. Close into a ring by making one slip stitch in the first chain. Continue crocheting one single crochet stitch into each chain stitch until you reach the beginning. 1-2 (BLO sc in next st, spike in next st of the previous round) repeat until the end of the round. 3-4 (spike in next st of the previous round, BLO sc in next st) repeat until the end of the round. Repeat until you have the number of rounds needed. 29 1 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 CRAB STITCH OR REVERSE SINGLE CROCHET The crab stitch is a stitch that looks like a twisted cording. It creates a rounded edge that’s really nice for finishing garments. It's also known as 'reverse single crochet' because it’s worked the same as a single crochet stitch but in the opposite direction. If you're right-handed, crab stitch goes from left to right. And if you are left-handed, from right to left. It may feel a bit awkward at first, but nothing is so complicated that it cannot be achieved with a little practice and patience. You will work this stitch in a finished piece. Make sure the right side is facing you 30 Chain 1 if you are using the same yarn as you were using in your project or join yarn and chain 1 if you are using a different color. 2 Insert your hook into the stitch to the right of your chain. Yarn over and pull up a loop like you would do for a single crochet stitch, except, as you may notice, the loop will be twisted. You now have two loops on the hook. 3 Yarn over again and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook. You have completed your first crab stitch. 4 Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. 5 Continue crocheting until you reach the end or, if you are working an edging that starts and ends in the same place, continue till you reach the stitch you started in. Slip stitch into that stitch (the same stitch you started in or the last one). INCREASES AND DECREASES Increase (abbreviation: inc) Increases and decreases are used for shaping any crochet garment or object. Increasing in crochet is achieved by working two or more stitches where there would normally be one stitch. 1 Work a stitch into the next stitch of the previous row or round. 2 Insert your hook in exactly the same stitch and pull up a loop. 3 Work a second stitch. Decrease (abbreviation: dec) Decreasing is achieved by crocheting two or more stitches together. There are a couple of methods, but for my toys I always use the “traditional decrease” because it’s the method I learned first and it comes naturally to me. Nowadays, it's become less popular because it can leave a small gap if not tightened properly. 1-2 Work two incomplete stitches in two adjacent stitches on the previous round or row. 3 Yarn over. 4 Pull the loop through all three loops on the hook. 31 Working in spirals Increasing stitches from the center out is a technique used to make round pieces, such as hats and doilies. When crocheting in rounds, we traditionally close each round with a slip stitch. This technique, despite generating perfect circles, leaves a continuous mark, something like a scar, and it’s not pretty at all on a cute toy. To avoid this mark, we usually choose to crochet in spirals, that is, without joining the rounds. When working in continuous spirals, it's highly recommended to use a stitch marker. This tool will show you where a new round begins and the previous one ended. You can choose to place it at the end or the beginning of each round (be consistent in what you choose). After crocheting the round, you should end up right above your stitch marker. Move it at the beginning or the end of each round to keep track of where you are. MAGIC RING This is, almost without a doubt, the best way to start crocheting in the round. You start by working the required number of stitches on an adjustable loop and then pull the loop tight until the stitches are closed in a ring. There are several techniques to start the magic ring, and all of them may seem a bit scary at first. Practice and don’t worry if it appears impossible during the first attempts. I can assure you that once you’ve finished your first toy, you will have mastered this technique. And you’ll love it! 1 Start with the yarn crossed to form a circle, as if you were to start a slip knot. 2-3 Holding the loop tight between your thumb and index finger, insert the hook in the middle of the circle and draw up a loop. 4 Keep holding the ring tight (this is crucial!) and yarn over again above the circle. Pull the yarn through the loop on your hook to make a chain stitch. This chain stitch will secure the ring. 5-6 Insert the hook again into the circle and underneath the tail (they look like two strands crossed). Yarn over the hook and draw up a loop. 7 Yarn over again above the circle. Draw the loop through both loops on the hook. You’ve now made your first single crochet stitch in the ring. 8 Make as many stitches as required in the pattern. Grab the yarn tail and pull to draw the center of the ring tightly closed. Don’t be afraid to pull it really tight. 9 You can opt to join the circle with a slip stitch, but this is not necessary. It's the only point where I myself join the rounds. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 32 33 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 CROCHETING AROUND A FOUNDATION CHAIN Continue crocheting single crochet stitches into each chain stitch. 2 The last stitch is usually an increase stitch, so we can turn the work and continue working on the other side of the foundation chain. 3-4 Turn your work upside down to work into the underside of the stitches. Notice that only one loop is available. 5 Continue crocheting into each loop across. Your last single crochet stitch should be next to the first stitch you made. It can also be an increase stitch (depending on the pattern). 6 You can now continue working in spirals. When you want to start an oval piece instead of a circle, you can start by working around a foun dation chain. It's the traditional method to start rugs or bags and, in case of toys, we’ll be using this technique for crocheting snouts, ears and the body of some characters. 1 Work a foundation chain with as many stitches as required. Start in the second chain from the hook and make a single crochet stitch (sometimes, the pattern may require an increase stitch). 34 CHANGING COLOR AND JOINING YARN Use this technique when you want to switch from one color to the next or join yarn because you ran out of the one you were crocheting with. 1 Work in the previous color (or yarn) until two loops of the last stitch remain on the hook. 2 Use the new color (or yarn) to complete the stitch. Continue working with the new color (or yarn) as before. Try not to cut off any yarn tails that will be needed later on. I knot both yarns, to make sure the stitch stays tight. Note: If you are working stripes of different colors in rows, make the color change in the last stitch of the previous row. TAPESTRY CROCHET IN BOTH LOOPS TAPESTRY CROCHET IN FLO TAPESTRY CROCHET IN BLO 35 JACQUARD AND TAPESTRY These two funny words come from other textile worlds, knitting and weaving, but crocheters managed to adapt these color change techniques to crochet. They are used to create motifs and patterns with two or more colors, much like drawing with different yarn colors. It’s common to work these motifs by following a diagram that shows you the color for each stitch. Using a diagram makes it easier to count stitches. The difference between the two techniques is how the different strands of color are carried through the work. When working jacquard, we leave the yarn we don’t use behind the work. When it’s time to use it again, you pick up the yarn and carry it across the back (inside) of your work before making the next color change. When the pattern indicates to make a color change, it’s really important to remember that the change must always be started one stitch earlier. Crochet the number of stitches as indicated by the pattern/ diagram. Taking into account that the color change always starts a stitch before, take the strand of the color that you want to use and carry it from behind to the place where you want to change color. The strands that remain inside your crochetwork between color changes must be loose enough so that the fabric doesn't pucker. Note: When working jacquard with color changes that are widely spread, I like to cut the inside strands and tie them together. In fact, it is recommended if the color change causes your thread to cross the crochetwork and make a web that doesn’t allow you to stuff properly. If you don’t want to cut your yarn, you can also use the technique of picking up the loose strand every couple of stitches. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 When working the tapestry technique, you carry the yarn strand along within the stitches (on top of the V) while continuing to crochet with the other color. This means that every time we make a stitch, we’ll be wrapping the strand(s) of the other yarn color(s) that we aren’t using. This apparently small difference with the jacquard technique will result in a significantly different fabric, especially on the backside (or “wrong” side): it results in a piece of fabric that resembles a tapestry (hence the name!) and has the great advantage that there are no loose threads on either side. Therefore, it’s great to crochet garments or accessories where we want the fabric to look nice on both sides. However, the small disadvantage I do see is that, unless you carry the threads throughout the entire work, the place where you crochet 36 Note: If you want straight vertical lines using the tapestry technique with single crochet stitches, you may want to crochet FLO or BLO (sample on page 35). using this technique results in a rather thick fabric, and the threads of the “hidden” colors can be seen between the stitches. FASTENING OFF When you finish your work and want to fasten off the yarn permanently, cut the yarn about 2 inches / 5 cm away from the last stitch. Draw the end through the loop on the hook. If you are going to sew the piece, you may have to cut the yarn much longer, depending on how many stitches you’ll have to sew. If you are not going to sew this piece, or if you have finished the last round of a stuffed piece, you may want to weave in the yarn end. Weave in the yarn end on a stuffed piece Weave in the yarn end on a flat fabric 1-2 Finish the last round of decreases and fasten off, leaving a long tail of 6 inches / 15 cm. Thread the yarn tail into a tapestry needle and, from back to front, weave it through the front loop of each remaining stitch. 3 Pull the yarn tail tight to close. Weave it through one or two more stitches to secure the tail. Trim the excess yarn and hide it into the piece with the help of your crochet hook. Thread the yarn end into a tapestry needle. With the wrong side facing, weave the end into a single row or several stitches, wrapping the yarn end into the loops at the bottom of the rows. You can also pass the yarn through the loops on the side. Cut the remaining tail. 37 EMBROIDERY Embroidery remains a pending subject for me. I only know – more or less – how to make one embroidery stitch I learned as a child to hand-sew doll dresses: the backstitch. It creates a nice line made up of straight stitches. 1 Thread your tapestry needle. Insert the needle from behind your work and make a single straight stitch the same length as your single crochet stitch. I like to use the gaps between the stitches to insert and pass the tapestry needle through. 2 Continue along, as many times as you need, coming up one space ahead and bringing your needle back down into the same hole at the end of the last stitch you've made. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 38 JOINING PARTS (SEWING) I’m one of many crocheters who would happily pay someone to do the sewing part for me. But, as there are no volunteers (yet), we better practice a simple and satisfactory method. If you’re having doubts about where to place the parts, you can pin them to see how they look and adjust if necessary. If possible, use the leftover yarn tail from where you fastened off. Joining open pieces Use this technique to sew snouts, cheeks, beaks, horns, etc., to an open and unstuffed piece, like a head. Thread the tapestry needle and position the piece. Use pins if you need them! If you are sewing a snout or a beak on a face, I recommend you position it on the opposite side of where your stitch marker is located, for aesthetic reasons. This way your color changes will be at the back of your toy. Make the first stitch, inserting the needle from front to back (inside). Using backstitching, sew passing under both loops of each stitch from the final round of the piece to be attached. Go from back to front and front to back. If the piece has 30 stitches, you’ll have to make 30 backstitches. Before getting to the end, remember to stuff the piece. I try not to stuff the pieces until the very end, to avoid the filling getting entangled in the stitches. Joining an open end piece with a closed piece I'll explain how to sew an open piece (with or without stuffing) onto a finished and closed part without closing the opening first. Thread the tapestry needle. Place the pieces on top of each other and try to line up the stitches of one piece with the other, if possible. Insert the needle through one loop of the closed (and stuffed) piece (for example the body). Now pass the needle under both loops of the stitch from the piece to be sewn. Sew around the whole piece and fasten off. Weave in the yarn tail. 39 READING A PATTERN Crochet has its own lingo and, like all lingos, its own peculiarities. The crochet terminology not only differs between countries, it even has its local variations in the same country. The table below is a brief guide to the most commonly used stitch terms and their crochet symbols. In this book, I use US terms. US UK LATIN AMERICA SPAIN stitch (st) stitch (st) punto (p/pt) punto (p/pt) chain (ch) chain (ch) cadena (c/cad) cadeneta (c/cad) slip stitch (slst) slip stitch (slst) punto corrido / pasado (pc/pp) punto raso / enano (pr/pe) single crochet (sc) double crochet (dc) medio punto (mp) punto bajo (pb) half double crochet (hdc) half treble crochet (htc) media vareta (mv/pmv) punto (alto) medio (pm) double crochet (dc) treble crochet (tr) vareta (v/pv) punto alto (pa) SYMBOL Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 bobble stitch bobble stitch punto mota / piña punto piña increase (inc) increase (inc) aumento (aum) aumento (aum) decrease (dec) decrease (dec) disminución (dism) disminución (dism) round (Rnd) round (Rnd) ronda (r) ronda (r) ring ring anillo anillo PARENTHESES AND BRACKETS In this book, I use parentheses (rounded brackets) to indicate the instructions that should be repeated across the round or row a required number of times. The number within square brackets at the end of each line shows the total number of stitches you should have in the previous round. For example: Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 3 indicates in which round you are. The instructions inside the parentheses are the stitches you have to work 6 times through the round. 18 is the total number of stitches you should have at the end. When directions for one round must be repeated through several rounds, you will read "Rnd 10 – 20”, which indicates that you have to follow the same instructions from round 10 up to (and including) round 20. 40 41 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 42 43 When Lucas was a little fox, instead of playing hide and seek with his friends, he would stay inside, devouring every mystery and detective book he could find. With time, he found himself loving all kinds of books. Every time Lucas got hold of a new title, he stared at the cover, studied every detail, touched the paper, smelled the ink... And if he discovered drawings, engravings or pictures inside, he would jump around the house with joy. So, when he grew up, he started working in a small-scale printing house surrounded by the smell of ink and a thousand types of paper. He now creates books and is quite awesome at making a story look spectacular. In fact, he’s quite awesome at all he does, except making bubbles with gum. He blames his large snout. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4101 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK Size: 13.5 inches / 34 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · red · off-white · blue · white · black (leftover) · pastel pink (leftover) – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), embroidery (page 38), joining parts (page 39), dividing the body in two parts (explained in pattern) Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. CHEEKS HEAD AND BODY (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (start in red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [27] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [36] Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [45] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [54] Rnd 8: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 9 – 21: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 22: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] Rnd 23: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 20. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 3 stitches away from Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 SNOUT (start in black) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 7: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 18 st [18] Change to red yarn. Rnd 11: sc in next 8 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st [20] Rnd 12: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth with black yarn. Stuff the snout with fiberfill. 44 45 the snout. Sew the cheeks below the safety eyes. Rnd 24: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 25: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 10 times [20] Rnd 26: sc in all 20 st [20] Stuff the head firmly. Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating white and blue yarn. Rnd 27: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [30] Rnd 28 – 31: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 32: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 33 – 37: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 38: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [40] Rnd 39: sc in all 40 st [40] Change to red yarn. Rnd 40: BLO sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 41 – 48: sc in all 40 st [40] Do not fasten off. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 4 stitches between the legs closed. ARMS LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 4 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 16 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 49 – 70: sc in all 16 st [16] Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 71: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 72: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (make 2, start in red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 12 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating white and blue yarn. Rnd 17 – 21: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 22: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 28 and 29. TAIL (start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 6: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [28] Rnd 8: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 9: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [32] Rnd 10: sc in all 32 st [32] Change to red yarn. SECOND LEG Rejoin the red yarn in the fifth unworked stitch at the back of round 48. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 49: sc in next 16 st. When you reach the 16th st of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [16] Rnd 50 – 72: repeat the pattern for the first leg. 46 47 Rnd 11 – 16: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 17: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 4 times [28] Rnd 18 – 19: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 20: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 4 times [24] Rnd 21 – 22: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 24 – 25: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 4 times [16] Rnd 27 – 28: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 30: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill, but stuff less at the top. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 43 and 44. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 48 EARS (make 2, in red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 8: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 12: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] Rnd 13 – 15: sc in all 21 st [21] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Embroider off-white stripes on the inside of the ear. Flatten the ears before sewing them to the head. - 49 Gilbert is a poet. He loves wandering in the fields, listening to the wind blowing through the tall grass, the buzz of the bees, watching the tiny bright speckles of light that sneak through the leafy canopy… and writing his findings down in thousands of notebooks that he leaves scattered around his home. He’s not the most organized or tidy type of person. But he is a great poet. In his spare time, he works as an editor in a publishing house specialized in knitting and crochet patterns. Gilbert's exceptional attention to detail allows him to find every tiny mistake in a sea of digits, sentences, and paragraphs. And from time to time, he throws in a tiny poetic metaphor so that the stitches don't feel so boring. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4102 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 15 inches / 38 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · slate gray · off-white · yellow · black (leftover) · pastel pink · pale pink · cream · graphite · beige – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), changing color mid-round (page 35), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. CHEEKS (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 SNOUT (in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn. HEAD AND BODY (start in slate gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] 50 Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 11 – 22: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] Rnd 24: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 19. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Stuff the snout with fiberfill before closing the seam. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Sew the cheeks below the safety eyes. Embroider short beige lines on the forehead. Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] 51 Rnd 26: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 10 times [20] Rnd 27: sc in all 20 st [20] Stuff the head firmly. Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 28: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [30] Continue working in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in yellow and 1 round in off-white yarn. Rnd 29 – 32: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 33: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 34 – 38: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 39: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [40] Rnd 40: sc in all 40 st [40] Change to slate gray yarn. Rnd 41: BLO sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 42 – 49: sc in all 40 st [40] Do not fasten off. LEGS SECOND LEG Rejoin the slate gray yarn in the fifth unworked stitch at the back of round 49. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 50: sc in next 16 st. When you reach the 16th st of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [16] Rnd 51 – 73: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 4 stitches between the legs closed. ARMS (make 2, start in slate gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to off-white yarn. Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating 1 round in off-white yarn and 2 rounds in yellow yarn. Rnd 17 – 21: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 22: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 29 and 30. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 To make the legs, divide the work identifying 4 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 16 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 50 – 71: sc in all 16 st [16] Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 72: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 73: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. 52 EARS (make 2, start in slate gray) Note: The ears are created with the jacquard technique. Alternatively, you can crochet the ears in a single color and make a separate inner ear by using the pattern of Ramona cow's inner ear on page 100. Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Continue working with alternating yarns (slate gray and beige). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 4: (slate gray) sc in next 3 st, (beige) sc in next 2 st, (slate gray) sc in next 10 st [15] Rnd 5 – 20: (slate gray) sc in next 2 st, (beige) sc in next 4 st, (slate gray) sc in next 9 st [15] Continue in slate gray yarn. Rnd 21: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and pinch the ears and sew them on top of the head. 53 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 54 OVERALLS (start in cream) Ch 46. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Work in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating cream and graphite gray yarn. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 46 st [46] Rnd 3: (sc in next 22 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [48] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 6: (sc in next 23 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [50] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 50 st [50] Rnd 9: (sc in next 24 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [52] Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 52 st [52] Do not fasten off. OVERALL LEGS To make the overall legs, divide the work identifying 4 stitches for the central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 22 stitches for each overall leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Join the marked stitch for the overall leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the next round). Now the stitches of the first overall leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first overall leg in a stripe pattern: Rnd 13 – 19: sc in all 22 st [22] Rnd 20: slst in all 22 st [22] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SECOND OVERALL LEG Rejoin the cream yarn in the fifth unworked stitch at the back of round 12. This is where we start the first stitch of the second overall leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 13: sc in next 22 st. When you reach the 22nd st of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [22] Rnd 14 – 20: repeat the pattern for the first overall leg. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry 55 needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 4 stitches between the overall legs closed. OVERALL WAISTBAND AND STRAPS (in pastel pink) Identify the center stitch in round 1 at the back of the overall and join pastel pink yarn in this stitch. Crochet the waistband. Rnd 1: sc in all 46 st [46] Continue with the shoulder straps. Mark stitches 6, 18, 29 and 41 with stitch markers. These 4 stitch markers show where to start or join the straps. Rnd 2: sc in next 6 st, ch 22, skip next 11 st on the waistband, sc in next marked stitch on the waistband, sc in next 11 st on the waistband, ch 22, skip next 11 st on the waistband, sc in next marked stitch at the back of the waistband, sc in next 5 st on the waistband [24 + 44 ch] Rnd 3: BLO slst in next 6 st until you reach the shoulder strap, slst in next 22 st on the shoulder strap, BLO slst in next 12 st on the waistband, slst in next 22 st on the second shoulder strap, BLO slst in next 6 st on the waistband [48] Next, work around each armhole. For the left armhole, join pastel pink yarn at the back, next to the right strap. BLO slst in next 11 st, slst in next 22 ch. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Repeat for the right armhole, joining pastel pink yarn at the front, next to the left strap. Make a 1.2” / 3 cm pompon in pale pink yarn and sew it to the back of the overalls. Olivia Rosemary got her middle name from her uncle, “Romero Mouse” (Rosemary in Spanish), and she loves it. Her mother's fascination with Olivia Flaversham, the little mouse in “The Great Mouse Detective”, probably got her her first name. Everyone agrees that rosemary and olive are perfect together (especially if you add garlic and potatoes to the combo). Ok, we suppose her mom was simply thinking of dinner when Olivia was born. But, apart from her name origin, Olivia thinks that she does look a lot like Olivia F., and - perhaps influenced by Lucas red fox - she loves mysteries and detective stories so much that she decided she wants to be a private detective. She read all Arthur Conan Doyle books and, of course, started reading the Enola Holmes mysteries… GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4103 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 12 inches / 30 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · taupe brown · beige · pale pink · pastel pink (leftover) · graphite gray · pastel mint · petrol blue – Fingering or light sport weight yarn in · off-white – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size B-1 / 2.25 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color mid-round (page 35), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), working tapestry crochet (page 36), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. Note: Use a size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook, unless otherwise noted. CHEEKS HEAD AND BODY Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. SNOUT (in beige) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 3: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with graphite gray yarn. 56 (in taupe brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 20: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] 57 Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 18. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Stuff the snout with fiberfill before closing the seam. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Sew the cheeks below the safety eyes. Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 25: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 26: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the head firmly. Rnd 27: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [27] Rnd 28: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [36] Rnd 30 – 42: sc in all 36 st [36] Do not fasten off. LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 3 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 43 – 60: sc in all 15 st [15] Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 61: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 62: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the taupe brown yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 42. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 43: sc in next 15 st. When you reach the 15th st of the leg, sc in first stitch to join the round [15] Rnd 44 – 62: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 ARMS (make 2, in taupe brown) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 20: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 28 and 29. 58 EARS (make 2) The ears are made by joining 2 circles. INNER CIRCLE (in pale pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [24] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [32] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [40] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Set aside. OUTER CIRCLE (in taupe brown) Rnd 1 – 5: repeat the pattern for the inner circle. Do not fasten off. We will join both parts, placing the pale pink circle on the taupe brown circle with the wrong sides together. Rnd 6: insert the hook under both loops of both circles, sc in all 40 st, ch 1, turn [40] Rnd 7: slst in all 40 st [40] Join the last slst to the first slst. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pinch the ears and sew them on top of the head. 59 TAIL Rnd 3: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [60] Rnd 4: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 5: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [70] Rnd 6 – 8: sc in all 70 st [70] Rnd 9: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [80] Rnd 10: ch 6, skip 6 st, sc in next 74 st [80] Rnd 11 – 18: sc in all 80 st [80] Do not fasten off. (in beige) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2 – 32: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. BLOOMERS (with off-white fingering weight yarn, using a size B-1 / 2.25 mm crochet hook) Ch 50 loosely. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Note: I recommend to always check the fitting of the garments. If it doesn’t fit, you may want to change the size of the hook, the weight of the yarn or change the number of stitches (add or undo stitches). I know it’s more work, but the final result will be better. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 50 st [50] Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 BLOOMERS LEGS To make the bloomers legs, divide the work identifying 6 stitches for the central space between the legs, 6 stitches for the back and 34 stitches for each bloomers leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Make sure the hole for the tail in round 10 is centered at the back. Join the marked stitch for the first bloomers leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the bloomers leg). Now the stitches of the first bloomers leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first bloomers leg: Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 34 st [34] Rnd 21: (sc in next 15 st, dec) repeat 2 times [32] Rnd 22 – 23: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 24: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 8 times [24] Rnd 25: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 26: (4 hdc in next st, slst in next st) repeat 12 times [60] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SECOND BLOOMERS LEG Rejoin the off-white yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at the back of round 18. This is where we start the first stitch of the second bloomers leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 19: sc in next 34 st. When you reach the 34th stitch of the bloomers leg, sc in first st to join the round [34] Rnd 20 – 26: repeat the pattern for the first bloomers leg. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 6 stitches between the bloomers legs closed. Put the bloomers on and mark the position of the tail. Sew the tail to the bottom of the mouse. 60 61 DRESS Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (start in pastel mint) Ch 34. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next 32 st, ch 2, turn [32] Row 2: hdc in next 4 st, ch 6, skip next 6 st, hdc in next 12 st, ch 6, skip next 6 st, hdc in next 4 st, ch 2, turn [32] Row 3: (hdc in next 3 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 8 times, ch 2, turn [40] Row 4: hdc in all 40 st, ch 2, turn [40] Row 5: (hdc in next 4 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 8 times [48] Join the last stitch of row 5 to the first stitch of row 5 with a hdc (this hdc will be the first stitch of the next round). Now the stitches of the dress are joined in the round. Continue working in rounds. Rnd 6: hdc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 7: (hdc in next 5 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 8 times [56] Rnd 8: hdc in all 56 st [56] Rnd 9: (hdc in next 6 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 8 times [64] Rnd 10: hdc in all 64 st [64] Note: Work the next round in two colors, pastel mint for the hdc stitches and petrol blue for the 5-dc-bobble. If possible, use the tapestry technique, carrying the petrol blue yarn along on top of the hdc stitches. Rnd 11: (hdc in next 3 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st) repeat 16 times [64] Rnd 12: (hdc in next 7 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 8 times [72] Rnd 13: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 14: slst in all 72 st [72] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Insert your hook in the first stitch on the left side of the neckline, with the right side of the dress facing you. Draw up a loop of pastel mint yarn. Slip stitch an edge all around the top of the dress: slst in next 32 st across the neckline, slst in next 62 CAPE 11 row-ends down the first side, slst in next 10 row-ends up the other side. Ch 5, slst in next st to make the buttonhole. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. BUTTON (in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Sew the button to the back of the dress, opposite the buttonhole. (in graphite gray) Ch 33. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in all 32 st, ch 2, turn [32] Row 2: (hdc in next 7 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [36] Row 3: (hdc in next 8 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [40] Row 4: (hdc in next 9 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [44] Row 5: (hdc in next 10 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [48] Row 6: (hdc in next 11 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [52] Row 7: (hdc in next 12 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [56] Row 8: (hdc in next 13 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [60] Row 9: (hdc in next 14 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [64] Row 10: hdc in next 4 st, ch 10, skip 10 st, hdc in next st, hdc inc in next st, (hdc in next 15 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 2 times, hdc in next 2 st, ch 10, skip 10 st, hdc in next 3 st, hdc inc in next st, ch 2, turn [68] Row 11: hdc in all 68 st, ch 2, turn [68] Row 12: (hdc in next 16 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 2, turn [72] Row 13: hdc in all 72 st [72] Without turning, ch 1, sc in the row-ends up the first side (about 20 sc), ch 25 to make the cape strap, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 24 ch, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the neckline: (4 hdc in next st, skip 1 st, slst in next st, skip 1 st) repeat 8 times, 4 hdc in next st. Ch 25 to make the other cape strap, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 24 ch, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, sc down the row-ends on the other side (about 20 sc), slst in all 72 st across row 13 of the cape. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. 63 Horacio’s parents are musicians so ever since he was a little cub, he has been touring the world. At first, he didn’t like being away from his polar home. Horacio missed his favorite foods and his dear friends. With time, Horacio made the search for delicious food and coffee part of his traveling routine, getting to know the markets and the places where the locals eat. And he discovered something wonderful: everyone is happy and makes new friends when there's food around. Lots of friendships grew from his encounters. Since he can’t live without his morning coffee, he now dedicates his life to this routine: he studies the varieties, crops and ways of preparing coffee, with an eye for sustainability, the environment and social rights. His job now is the perfect excuse to continue traveling, meet new people and visit old acquaintances. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4104 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK Size: 12.5 inches / 31 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · off-white · navy blue · white · pastel pink (leftover) · black (leftover) · yellow – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), joining parts (page 39), dividing the body in 2 parts (page 47), griddle stitch (explained in pattern), embroidery (page 38) Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. SNOUT (in off-white) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16] Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 16 st [16] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 HEAD AND BODY (start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 64 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 23: sc in all 54 st [54] Sew the snout between rounds 13 and 18. Stuff the snout with fiberfill before closing the seam. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Embroider the cheeks with pastel pink yarn. Rnd 24: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Continue working in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round in navy blue and 2 rounds in white yarn. Rnd 25 – 27: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 28: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 29 – 33: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 34: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [72] Rnd 35 – 42: sc in all 72 st [72] Change to pastel pink yarn. Rnd 43: sc in all 72 st [72] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 44: BLO (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [78] Rnd 45 – 51: sc in all 78 st [78] Rnd 52: (sc in next 11 st, dec) repeat 6 times [72] Rnd 53 – 55: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 56: (sc in next 10 st, dec) repeat 6 times [66] 65 Rnd 57 – 59: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 60: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 61 – 62: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 63: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 64: sc in all 54 st [54] Do not fasten off. LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 6 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 6 stitches for the back and 21 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the marked stitch for the first leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 65 – 72: sc in all 21 st [21] Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 73: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 7 times [14] Rnd 74: dec 7 times [7] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Stuff the body and the first leg. SECOND LEG Rejoin the off-white yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at the back of round 64. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 65: sc in next 21 st. When you reach the 21st stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [21] Rnd 66 – 74: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 6 stitches between the legs closed. ARMS (make 2, start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 6: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 13 st [15] Rnd 7 – 18: sc in all 15 st [15] Change to navy blue yarn and continue working in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round in navy blue and 2 rounds in white yarn. Rnd 19 – 23: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 24: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 26 and 27. EARS Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (make 2, in off-white) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears before sewing. Sew them to the top of the head, between rounds 3 and 8. TAIL (in off-white) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Sew the tail to the back, centered between rounds 50 and 51. 66 TROUSERS (start in yellow) Ch 72. Make sure your stitches aren’t too tight and that your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Note: The trousers are made using the griddle stitch, by alternating 1 sc and 1 dc. As you start the next round, remember that you always work a dc into a sc of the previous round and vice versa. 67 Rnd 18 – 21: repeat the pattern for the first trouser leg. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 6 stitches between the trouser legs closed. Rnd 1: (sc in next st, dc in next st) repeat this until the end of the round [72] Change to white yarn. Rnd 2: (dc in next st, sc in next st) repeat this until the end of the round [72] Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 3 – 17: repeat rounds 1 and 2 (including the color changes). Do not fasten off. TROUSER LEGS To make the trouser legs, divide the work identifying 6 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 6 stitches for the back and 30 stitches for each trouser leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Join the first marked stitch for the trouser leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the trouser leg). Now the stitches of the first trouser leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first trouser leg: Note: Depending on where you divide the trousers, you’ll have to start round 18 with a sc or a dc stitch, it makes no difference for the end result. Rnd 18: work the griddle stitch in next 30 st [30] Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 19: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times [25] Rnd 20: sc in all 25 st [25] Rnd 21: slst in all 25 st [25] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. WAISTBAND (in pastel pink) Join pastel pink yarn in the first stitch of round 1 of the trousers. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 3: BLO slst in all 72 st [72] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SHOULDER STRAPS (make 2, start in yellow) Ch 49. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, slst in all 48 st, ch 1, turn [48] Change to white yarn. Row 2 – 3: BLO slst in all 48 st, ch 1, turn [48] Change to yellow yarn. Row 4: BLO slst in all 48 st, ch 1, turn [48] Row 5: BLO slst in all 48 st [48] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew one end of the shoulder strap to the front of the trousers, on the inside of the pastel pink waistband. Sew the other end to the back of the trousers, at about 15 stitches from the first end. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 SECOND TROUSER LEG Rejoin the white yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at the back of round 17. This is where we start the first stitch of the second trouser leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. 68 69 Ron is kind of a chatterbox. He jabbers about anything. Really, anything that comes to his mind. He’s curious, so he reads a lot. Like: all day long. And again: everything. Especially silly facts, things that hardly anyone cares to read about. And he’s great at remembering all that stuff, including the most capricious details. He's also great at repairing things. Perhaps for the same reason he can remember every minor detail, he can also repair all things that others gave up on. Like that faucet that keeps dripping, or the irritating noise the closet door makes, specifically at 6 in the morning when you are trying not to wake the whole family. Yes, you may say Ron is the best Handy Andy Red Panda, and the most chattery as well. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4105 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth and nose with black yarn. Note: Use a size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook, unless otherwise noted. HEAD AND BODY Size: 10.5 inches / 27 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) CHEEKS Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · burnt orange · off-white · brick red · black (leftover) · pastel pink · cream · graphite gray · yellow (leftover) – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), working around a foundation chain (page 34), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), changing color mid-round (page 35), half double slip stitch (page 26), joining parts (page 39), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), embroidery (page 38) Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 SNOUT (in off-white) Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in last st [12] Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st [18] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 18 st [18] 70 (start in burnt orange) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [27] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [36] Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [45] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [54] Rnd 8: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 60 st [60] Continue working with alternating yarns (burnt orange and off-white). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 12: (burnt orange) (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, (burnt orange) inc in next st, (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [66] Rnd 13: (burnt orange) sc in next 22 st, (off-white) 71 sc in next 7 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 7 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 22 st [66] Rnd 14: (burnt orange) sc in next 21 st, (offwhite) sc in next 7 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 7 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 21 st [66] Rnd 15 – 16: (burnt orange) sc in next 20 st, (off-white) sc in next 3 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 20 st, (off-white) sc in next 3 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 20 st [66] Rnd 17: (burnt orange) sc in next 19 st, (offwhite) sc in next 4 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 20 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 19 st [66] Rnd 18: (burnt orange) sc in next 18 st, (offwhite) sc in next 4 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 22 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 18 st [66] Rnd 19 – 20: (burnt orange) sc in next 17 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 22 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 17 st [66] Rnd 21: (burnt orange) sc in next 17 st, (offwhite) sc in next 6 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 20 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 17 st [66] Rnd 22: (burnt orange) sc in next 18 st, (offwhite) sc in next 6 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 18 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 18 st [66] Rnd 23: (burnt orange) sc in next 9 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 3 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 3 st, (burnt orange) sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 9 st, dec [60] Rnd 24: (burnt orange) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (off-white) dec, sc in next 3 st, dec, (burnt orange) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (off-white) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 3 st, (burnt orange) dec, (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [48] Continue in burnt orange yarn. Rnd 25: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Sew the snout between rounds 15 and 20. Stuff the snout with fiberfill before closing the seam. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Sew the cheeks below the safety eyes. Rnd 26: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 27: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 28: sc in all 24 st [24] Stuff the head firmly. Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [32] Rnd 30: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 31: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [40] Rnd 32 – 34: sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 35: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [44] Rnd 36 – 39: sc in all 44 st [44] Rnd 40: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [48] Rnd 41 – 49: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 50: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 51 – 53: sc in all 42 st [42] Change to brick red yarn. Rnd 54: sc in all 42 st [42] Do not fasten off. LEGS Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 To make the legs, divide the work identifying 3 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the first marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 55 – 62: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 63: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 64: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the brick red yarn to the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 54. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. 72 73 Rnd 55: sc in next 18 st. When you reach the 18th st of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [18] Rnd 56 – 64: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed. ARMS (make 2, start in brick red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to burnt orange yarn. Rnd 7 – 17: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 18: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 30 and 31. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 EARS (make 2, start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and brick red). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 2: (off-white) inc in next 3 st, (brick red) inc in next 3 st [12] Rnd 3: (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (brick red) sc in next 6 st [12] Rnd 4: (off-white) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (brick red) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 5: (off-white) sc in next 9 st, (brick red) sc in next 9 st [18] Rnd 6: (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (brick red) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 7 – 8: (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (brick red) sc in next 12 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Embroider burnt orange stripes on the white part of the ear. Flatten the ears before sewing them to the head. 74 TAIL (start in brick red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 30 st [30] Change to burnt orange yarn and continue working in a stripe pattern, alternating 3 rounds in burnt orange and 3 rounds in brick red yarn. Stuff the tail and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 8 – 28: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 29: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 30 – 34: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 35: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 36 – 37: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 38: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 3 times [21] Rnd 39 – 40: sc in all 21 st [21] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill, but stuff less at the top. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 46 to 49. TROUSERS (start in cream) Ch 52. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1: sc in all 52 st [52] Change to graphite gray yarn. Rnd 2: (sc in all 12 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [56] Continue working in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in cream and 1 round in graphite gray yarn. single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the trouser leg). Now the stitches of the first trouser leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first trouser leg: Rnd 15 – 17: sc in all 24 st [24] Continue in graphite gray. Rnd 18: BLO slst in all 24 st [24] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SECOND TROUSER LEG Rejoin the cream yarn in the fifth unworked stitch at the back of round 14. This is where we start the first stitch of the second trouser leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 15: sc in next 24 st. When you reach the 24th st on the trouser leg, sc in first st to join the round [24] Rnd 16 – 18: repeat the pattern for the first trouser leg. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 4 stitches between the trouser legs closed. WAISTBAND (in yellow) Join yellow yarn in the first stitch of round 1. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 52 st [52] Rnd 3: slst in all 52 st [52] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SCARF Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 56 st [56] Rnd 8: sc in next st, ch 10, skip next 10 st, sc in next 45 st [56] Rnd 9 – 14: sc in all 56 st [56] Do not fasten off. TROUSER LEGS To make the trouser legs, divide the work identifying 4 stitches for the central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 24 stitches for each trouser leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Make sure the hole for the tail in round 8 is centered at the back. Join the first marked stitch for the trouser leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a 75 (using a 3.5 mm crochet hook, in brick red) Ch 108. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in third ch from the hook, hdslst in next 106 st, ch 1, turn [106] Row 2 – 8: BLO hdslst in all 106 st, ch 1, turn [106] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Make two 2" / 5 cm pompons in pastel pink yarn. Sew one pompon to each end of the scarf. Proud Scotsman and breakfast fan, Angus believes that the “elevenses” (the pastries, fruits, toast and tea he has as a little snack between breakfast and lunch) is essential to maintain a good mood during the day. He’s a follower of the hobbit philosophy of life: relax, enjoy things as they come and do so with a lot of food involved. Angus has set up his own grocery store, the perfect enterprise if you want to have the best and freshest produce at hand. He is so good at picking fresh products and has the peculiarity to try everything he sells, his grocery store is the most amazing and colorful store in town. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4106 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK Size: 10 inches / 25 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · mustard yellow · off-white · white · navy blue · brown (leftover) · black (leftover) – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), changing color mid-round (page 35), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38), Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. SNOUT (start in off-white yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and mustard yellow). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 2: (off-white) inc in next 3 st, (mustard yellow) inc in next 2 st, (off-white) inc in next st [12] Rnd 3: (off-white) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (mustard yellow) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, (offwhite) sc in next st, inc in next st [18] Rnd 4: (off-white) sc in next 9 st, (mustard yellow) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 3 st [18] Sc in next 2 st (to create space to embroider the mouth) and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 76 HEAD AND BODY (start in mustard yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9 – 14: sc in all 48 st [48] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 15: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 12 times [60] Rnd 16: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 12 times [72] Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 19: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 18 times [54] Rnd 20: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] 77 Rnd 21: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Sew the snout between rounds 13 and 18. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Stuff the snout with fiberfill before closing the seam. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, about 2 stitches away from the snout. Embroider 2 lines next to each eye and short lines on the forehead with brown yarn. Rnd 22: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 23: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 10 times [20] Rnd 24: sc in all 20 st [20] Stuff the head firmly. Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating navy blue and white yarn. Rnd 25: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [30] Rnd 26: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 27: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 28 – 30: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 31: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [40] Rnd 32 – 36: sc in all 40 st [40] Change to mustard yellow yarn. Rnd 37: BLO (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [44] Rnd 38 – 50: sc in all 44 st [44] Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 78 Rnd 51: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 4 times [40] Rnd 52 – 54: sc in all 40 st [40] Do not fasten off. ARMS LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 4 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 16 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the first marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 55 – 59: sc in all 16 st [16] Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 60: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 61: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the mustard yellow yarn in the fifth unworked stitch at the back of round 54. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 55: sc in next 16 st. When you reach the 16th stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [16] Rnd 56 – 61: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 4 stitches between the legs closed. 79 (make 2, start in mustard yellow) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 9: sc in all 10 st [10] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating white and navy blue yarn. Rnd 10 – 17: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 18: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 26 and 27. EARS (in mustard yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Embroider off-white stripes on the inside of the ear. Flatten before sewing them to the head. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 80 Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 6: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 7: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. BASE OF THE TAIL Rejoin the mustard yellow yarn to the first stitch to the left of the tip of the tail, on round 12. Rnd 13: sc in next 26 st, FLO sc in next 12 ch, sc in first st to join the round [38] Rnd 14: sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec [36] Rnd 15: sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec [34] Rnd 16: dec, sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 6 st [32] Rnd 17: dec, sc in next 22 st, dec, sc in next 6 st [30] Rnd 18 – 19: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 20: dec, sc in next 20 st, dec, sc in next 6 st [28] Rnd 21 – 22: sc in all 28 st [28] Stuff the tip and the top part of the tail. Rnd 23: dec, sc in next 18 st, dec, sc in next 6 st [26] Rnd 24 – 25: sc in all 26 st [26] Rnd 26: dec, sc in next 16 st, dec, sc in next 6 st [24] Rnd 27 – 28: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 29: dec, sc in next 14 st, dec, sc in next 6 st [22] Rnd 30 – 36: sc in all 22 st [22] Fasten off, leaving a (very) long tail for sewing. Stuff the base part of the tail, but do not overstuff when you reach the open edge. Flatten the open edge. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 35 to 51. First sew the inner edge of the tail to round 50 (sew from the right to the left side). Then sew the outer edge of the tail to round 51 (left to right). Sew up the side, attaching the side of the tail to round 51 up to round 35. Sew from right to left on round 35. Sew down the side, attaching the side of the tail to round 35, down to round 51. Weave in the yarn ends. TAIL (in mustard yellow) The tail is made by starting at the top, which is then split into two parts, the tip and the base. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 48 st [48] Do not fasten off, we continue with the tip of the tail. TIP OF THE TAIL Ch 12. Skip 26 st and join to the 27th stitch of round 12 with a sc. The tip will be formed with 22 stitches of the top part and the ch-12 foundation chain. Continue working the tip of the tail: Rnd 1: sc in all 34 st (22 on the top part and 12 on the chain) [34] Rnd 2: (dec, sc in next 8 st) repeat 2 times, (dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 2 times [30] Rnd 3: sc in all 30 st [30] 81 Humboldt was named after one of the greatest explorers and natural geographers in modern history, Sir Friedrich Wilhelm Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt. Quite a name. So, to honor such an important and long name, our dear Humboldt Penguin is determined to become a geographer, naturalist and explorer of all the oceans on the planet. His goal is to become Sir von Humboldt II, travelling and exploring the unknown. His friends suspect his actual desire is to try all varieties of fish that he finds on his way. Whatever his motivation, no one doubts his enthusiasm, as he spends most of his days perfecting his swimming techniques and drawing naturalistic illustrations. He has gotten quite good at drawing, mostly fish. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4107 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 9 inches / 23 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · petrol blue · off-white · greenish gray · red · yellow · pastel pink (leftover) – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook – Oval black safety eyes (12 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), working around a foundation chain (page 34), changing color mid-round (page 35), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), dividing the body in 2 parts (page 47), embroidery (page 38), joining parts (page 39), working in the back ridge of a chain (page 20), working half double slip stitch (page 26) Note: Use a size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook, unless otherwise noted. Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. BEAK Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (in yellow) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2: sc in all 8 st [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. CHEEKS (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. HEAD AND BODY (start in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) 82 repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: sc in all 48 st [48] Continue working with alternating yarns (petrol blue and off-white). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 10: (petrol blue) sc in next 16 st, (offwhite) sc in next 4 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 16 st [48] Rnd 11: (petrol blue) sc in next 15 st, (offwhite) sc in next 6 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 15 st [48] Rnd 12 – 14: (petrol blue) sc in next 14 st, (offwhite) sc in next 8 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 4 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 14 st [48] Rnd 15 – 17: (petrol blue) sc in next 14 st, (offwhite) sc in next 20 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 14 st [48] Continue in petrol blue yarn. Rnd 18: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [52] 83 Sew the beak between rounds 13 and 15. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, about 3 stitches away from the beak. Sew the cheeks below the safety eyes. Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round in red and 2 rounds in off-white yarn. Rnd 19 – 21: sc in all 52 st [52] Rnd 22: (sc in next 12 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [56] Rnd 23 – 25: sc in all 56 st [56] Rnd 26: (sc in next 13 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [60] Rnd 27 – 28: sc in all 60 st [60] Change to greenish gray yarn. Rnd 29: BLO sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 30: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 31 – 44: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 45: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 48: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 49 – 51: sc in all 54 st [54] Do not fasten off. LEGS SECOND LEG Rejoin the greenish gray yarn in the thirteenth unworked stitch at the back of round 51. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 52: sc in next 15 st. When you reach the 15th stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not close the leg. Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 12 stitches between the legs closed. FEET (make 2, in yellow yarn) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and, using a tapestry needle, close the opening of the last round. Sew the feet to the legs. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 To make the legs, divide the work identifying 12 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 12 stitches for the back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the first marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 52: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not close the leg. Stuff the body and leg firmly. 84 FLIPPERS RAIN CAPE (make 2, in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [8] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 8 st [8] Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [10] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 9: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [12] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 12: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 15: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [16] Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 18: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [18] Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and sew the flippers to both sides between rounds 20 and 21. The hooded rain cape is made of 2 separate parts that are sewn together. Note: Both the hood and cape are crocheted in half double slip stitch (BLO). If you’re not used to this stitch (I’m not), it’s a good idea to track the rows. Note: The rain cape is a small fit, as if Humboldt has outgrown it. If you want to make a bigger rain cape, you can start with either 18 or 21 ch on the hood and make more rows on the cape. HOOD (in yellow, using a size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook) Ch 15. The first row is worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Then crochet hdslst in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, hdslst in next 13 st, 3 hdslst in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, hdslst in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [30] Row 2 – 13: BLO hdslst in all 30 st, ch 1, turn [30] Row 14: slst in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. 85 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 CAPE (in yellow, using a size E-4 / 3.5 mm crochet hook) Ch 19. Crochet in rows. Work the first row in the back ridge of the foundation chain. Row 1: inserting the hook in the back bump of the second ch, slst in next 5 st, hdslst in next 13 st, ch 1, turn [18] Row 2: BLO hdslst in next 13 st, slst in next 5 st, ch 1, turn [18] Row 3: BLO slst in next 5 st, hdslst in next 13 st, ch 1, turn [18] Row 4 – 62: repeat rows 2 and 3. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. each side of the cape. Sew the hood to the cape. ASSEMBLY Identify the center of both the hood and the long side of the cape. The slst on the cape create the collar and thus the top side. Count 5 stitches from the top of the cape (where the hdslst begin) and fold the cape downward. Position and pin the hood on this line and stretch the hood so that there are only 9 stitches remaining on STRAPS Insert your hook in a stitch on the second row of the cape, right next to the beginning of the collar, with the wrong side of the rain cape facing you, and draw up a loop of yellow yarn. Ch 27. Start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 26 st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Make a second strap on the other side in the same way. 86 87 Tina was born in Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world, and one of the most unique. She descends from a family of doctors and nurses. When Tina was a little lemur, she met Lupita Spider Monkey and Otis Sloth. They became the closest friends and spent many nights staring at the sky. But eventually she went her own way, dedicating her life to her family’s passion, giving care to whoever needs it, regardless of size or species. Nowadays, Tina works as a nanny. She adores being with kids, fooling around (and taking care of them, of course). She’s also studying to be a nurse just like her grandfather and her aunty. And although she doesn’t have the chance to see her friends as often as she would like, Lupita and Otis call her almost every night to jointly look at the night sky. LL LEVEL ** KI * S GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4108 to share pictures and find inspiration. Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. CHEEKS (make 2, in yellow) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Size: 14 inches / 36 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · light warm gray · off-white · graphite gray · dark warm gray · yellow · subtle green · mustard yellow · cream – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color mid-round (page 35), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), joining parts (page 39), block stitch (explained in pattern), crab stitch (page 30), embroidery (page 38) SNOUT (in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 6 st [16] Rnd 6: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 8 st [19] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with dark warm gray yarn. 88 HEAD AND BODY (start in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [27] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [36] Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [45] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [54] Rnd 8: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 60 st [60] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 12: sc in all 60 st [60] Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and dark warm gray). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 13: (off-white) sc in next 17 st, (dark warm gray) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (dark warm gray) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 17 st [60] Rnd 14 – 18: (off-white) sc in next 19 st, 89 (dark warm gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (dark warm gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 19 st [60] Rnd 19: (off-white) sc in next 20 st, (dark warm gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (dark warm gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 20 st [60] Continue in off-white yarn. Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 22: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] Rnd 23: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Rnd 24: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Sew the snout between rounds 13 and 20, in the off-white space between the dark warm gray patches. Stuff the snout with fiberfill before closing the seam. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17 about 2 stitches away from the snout. Sew the cheeks behind the safety eyes. Rnd 25: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 10 times [20] Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and light warm gray). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Note: The off-white patch on the chest should be aligned with the face. Rnd 26: (light warm gray) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st, (light warm gray) sc in next 6 st [20] Stuff the head firmly with fiberfill. Rnd 27: (light warm gray) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times, sc in next st, (off-white) (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, (light warm gray) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 28: (light warm gray) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (light warm gray) sc in next 10 st [30] Continue in light warm gray yarn. Rnd 29: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 30 – 46: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 47: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 48: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Stuff the body firmly. Rnd 49: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 50: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 51: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. EARS (make 2, in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 6 – 9: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider graphite gray stripes on the inside of the ears. Flatten them before sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Sew the ears to the head. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 LEGS (make 2, start in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 8: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [12] Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 12 st [12] Stuff lightly with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 12: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 13: sc in all 14 st [14] Work with alternating yarns in the next round, making one stitch in graphite gray and one stitch in light warm gray yarn. 90 91 Rnd 14: sc in all 14 st [14] Change to light warm gray yarn. Rnd 15 – 35: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 36: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Add more stuffing if needed. TOES (in graphite gray) Insert the hook into a stitch of round 2 and draw up a loop of graphite gray yarn. Crochet in rows. Row 1: (Ch 6, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 5 st, slst in next st on the leg) repeat 4 times [4 toes] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Sew the legs to the body between rounds 45 and 46. ARMS (make 2, start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 8: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 9: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [12] Stuff lightly with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go. Work with alternating yarns in the next round, making one stitch in off-white and one stitch in light warm gray yarn. Rnd 10: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to light warm gray yarn. Rnd 11 – 26: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 27: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Add more stuffing if needed. FINGERS (in off-white) Insert the hook into a stitch of round 2 and draw up a loop of graphite gray yarn. Crochet in rows. Row 1: (Ch 6, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 5 st, slst in next st on the arm) repeat 3 times [3 fingers] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 28 and 29. TAIL (start in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 10: sc in all 18 st [18] Continue working in a stripe pattern, alternating 3 rounds in off-white and 3 rounds in graphite gray yarn. Rnd 11: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 2 times [16] Stuff lightly with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 12 – 25: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 26: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 27 – 40: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 41: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times [12] Rnd 42 – 52: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Add more stuffing if needed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 45 and 46. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 DRESS The dress is made with 2 squares that are joined together. SQUARE (make 2, start in subtle green yarn) Ch 34. Crochet in rows. Note: We work the block stitch by working 2 rows in the same direction: 1 row in double crochet and 1 row crocheting in the spaces between the dc-stitches. Pay attention to the “right” and “wrong” side of the work. Note: Count the ch 3 we skip at the beginning as your first dc stitch. Row 1 (right side): start in fourth ch from the hook, dc in next 31 st [32] Mark the last stitch. Do not fasten off. Do not turn your work and keep your work with the right side facing you. Note: In the next row, we’ll work in the spaces between the 92 dc stitches of row 1. Row 2: (right side): draw up a loop of cream yarn in the first space between the skipped 3 ch and the first dc, sc in this space, (ch 2, skip next 2 dc-spaces, sc in next dc-space) repeat 10 times. Mark the last stitch. Do not fasten off. Turn your work. Row 3 (wrong side): remove the stitch marker you added at the end of row 1, continue with the subtle green yarn, ch 3, (3 dc in ch-2 space of row 2) repeat 10 times, dc in the space between the sc and the ch 3 you made at the beginning of row 1. Mark the last stitch. Do not fasten off. Do not turn your work and keep your work with the wrong side facing you. Row 4 (wrong side): remove the stitch marker you added at the end of row 2, continue with the cream yarn, ch 2, sc into the space between the ch 3 and the first dc, (ch 2, sc into next space between the 3-dc-clusters) repeat 9 times, ch 2, sc into the space between the final 3-dc-cluster and the final dc of row 3. Mark the last stitch. Do not fasten off. Turn your work. Row 5 (right side): remove the stitch marker you added at the end of row 3, continue with the subtle green yarn, ch 3, (3 dc into ch-2 space of row 4) repeat 10 times, dc into the space between the sc and the ch 3 you made at the beginning of row 3. Mark the last stitch. Do not fasten off. Do not turn your work and keep your work with the right side facing you. Row 6 (right side): remove the stitch marker you added at the end of row 4, continue with the cream yarn, ch 2, sc into the space between the ch 3 and the first dc, (ch 2, sc into next space between the 3-dc-clusters) repeat 9 times, ch 2, sc into the space between the final 3-dccluster and the final dc of row 5. Mark the last stitch. 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 93 Do not fasten off. Turn your work. Row 7: repeat row 3 Row 8: repeat row 4. Fasten off the cream yarn. Row 9: repeat row 5. Pull up a loop of mustard yellow yarn in the last cream sc stitch of Row 8. Row 10: repeat row 6 with mustard yellow yarn. Row 11: repeat row 3 with subtle green yarn Row 12: repeat row 4 with mustard yellow yarn. Row 13: repeat row 5 with subtle green yarn. Row 14: repeat row 6 with mustard yellow yarn. Row 15: repeat row 3 with subtle green yarn. Row 16: repeat row 4 with mustard yellow yarn. Row 17: repeat row 5 with subtle green yarn. Fasten off. Weave in the mustard yellow yarn tail and leave a long subtle green yarn tail. ASSEMBLY Start by sewing the top part. Place the squares with the right side facing up and row 17 of both pieces touching each other. In row 17, mark the 8 outer stitches for each shoulder and 16 center stitches for the collar (the starting chain in row 17 counts as the first dc stitch, giving you 32 stitches in total). You can use stitch markers to help hold your work together. We will join the pieces with the flat slip stitch seam technique. Using the remaining subtle green yarn tail, insert the hook from front to back into the back loop of the right corner stitch of the first square. Draw up a loop of subtle green yarn. Hold the yarn tail underneath the pieces you’re joining (and keep it underneath your work while joining the squares). Then, insert the hook from top to bottom into the back loop of the corner stitch of the second square. Draw up a loop of subtle green yarn and draw it through all loops on the hook to complete the first slip stitch. Insert the hook from front to back into the next back loop of the first square and the next back loop of the second square. Draw up a loop of subtle green yarn and draw it through all loops on the hook to complete the slip stitch. Repeat this until you have made 8 slst for the first shoulder. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 94 Join the squares on the other side (for the other shoulder) in the same way. To join the sides of the dress, fold the dress inside out and hold it with the wrong sides facing up. Line up the row-ends and, using a tapestry needle, sew the edges together from row 1 to 9 (where the first row in mustard yellow yarn begins). Sew the other side in the same way. The remaining holes are the armholes. COLLAR (in subtle green) Join the subtle green yarn in the first stitch next to the shoulder seam of row 17. Slst in next 16 st, 2 slst in the side of the shoulder seam, slst in next 16 st, 2 slst in the side of the shoulder seam [36] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SLEEVES (in subtle green) Join the subtle green yarn in a row-end at the bottom center of the armhole. Rnd 1: ch 3, make 26 dc around the armhole, slst in third ch [27] Rnd 2: slst in all 27 st [27] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Make the second sleeve in the same way. BOTTOM EDGE (in subtle green) Join the subtle green yarn in row 1, at the bottom of the dress. Rnd 1: insert the hook in the spaces between the dc stitches of row 1, sc in next 64 st [64] Rnd 2: ch 1, crab stitch in all 64 st [64] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. 95 LL LEVEL ** KI * S Ramona grew up playing with Lucas Fox, so it's no wonder she spent much of her time reading detective and mystery novels (and watching 'Back To The Future' more times than any being she has ever met - and she met a lot of people). What she loved most about those stories was the part where the characters searched for clues and connected the dots to find the truth. She started doing her own investigations in the neighborhood, researching unsolved mysteries - such as who had eaten the last cupcake of Eduardo Cutesaurus’ auntie or where did Angus Squirrel hide his food for winter. Now, Ramona is an accomplished investigative journalist who writes in-depth stories for major newspapers. Size: 14 inches / 35 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (horns included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · brown · pastel pink · pale pink · turmeric yellow · cream · black (leftover) · graphite gray · pastel mint – optional: fingering weight yarn in · pastel mint – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – optional: size 2.00 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), working around a foundation chain (page 34), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), working in the back ridge of a chain (page 20), half double slip stitch (page 26), mattress stitch (explained in pattern), flat slip stitch seam (page 94), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4109 to share pictures and find inspiration. CHEEKS (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 HEAD (start in pastel pink) Ch 8. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 5 st, 4 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 5 st, inc in last st [18] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st [26] Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [30] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 30 st [30] Change to cream yarn. Rnd 6 – 8: sc in all 30 st [30] 96 Change to brown yarn. Continue working with alternating yarns (brown and cream). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Note: The cream patch should be positioned in the center of the long side of your crochet work. You might need to add or undo a few brown stitches at the start of round 9 to get to the right position. Note: In the next rounds you will sometimes read “½ inc in next st”. Work the first stitch of this increase in one color and the second stitch in the other color. Rnd 9: (brown) sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, ½ inc in next st, (cream) ½ inc in next st, inc in next 2 st, ½ inc in next st, (brown) ½ inc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 19 st [36] Rnd 10 – 12: (brown) sc in next 8 st, (cream) sc in next 6 st, (brown) sc in next 22 st [36] Embroider the mouth between rounds 7 and 8 with black yarn. Rnd 13: (brown) sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, (cream) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (brown) sc in next st, 97 inc in next st, sc in next 20 st [42] Rnd 14 – 15: (brown) sc in next 10 st, (cream) sc in next 9 st, (brown) sc in next 23 st [42] Rnd 16: (brown) sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, (cream) (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times, ½ inc in next st, (brown) ½ inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 19 st [48] Rnd 17: (brown) sc in next 11 st, (cream) sc in next 13 st, (brown) sc in next 24 st [48] Rnd 18: (brown) sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, (cream) (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, (brown) sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st [54] Rnd 19 – 24: (brown) sc in next 12 st, (cream) sc in next 17 st, (brown) sc in next 25 st [54] Rnd 25: (brown) sc in next 13 st, (cream) sc in next 15 st, (brown) sc in next 26 st [54] Rnd 26: (brown) sc in next 14 st, (cream) sc in next 13 st, (brown) sc in next 27 st [54] Rnd 27: (brown) sc in next 15 st, (cream) sc in next 11 st, (brown) sc in next 28 st [54] Rnd 28: (brown) sc in next 16 st, (cream) sc in next 9 st, (brown) sc in next 29 st [54] Change to brown yarn. Rnd 29: sc in all 54 st [54] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 21 and 22, about 4 stitches away from the cream patch. Sew the cheeks below the safety eyes. Rnd 30: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 31: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 32: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 33: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 34: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Stuff the head firmly. Rnd 35: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 36: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 37: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 38: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. BODY (start in brown) Leave a long starting yarn tail. Ch 27. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 3: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 4: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 5: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 8: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 13: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 14 – 22: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 23: (sc in next 10 st, dec) repeat 4 times [44] Rnd 24 – 25: sc in all 44 st [44] Rnd 26: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 4 times [40] Rnd 27: sc in all 40 st [40] Do not fasten off. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 4 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 16 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Join the first marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 28 – 47: sc in all 16 st [16] Change to cream yarn. Rnd 48 – 49: sc in all 16 st [16] Change to graphite gray yarn. Rnd 50 – 52: sc in all 16 st [16] Stuff the body and leg. Do not overstuff, so you can work the hooves more easily. Make sure your hook is positioned in the center of the hoof. If necessary, crochet a few more sc or undo a few to correct your position. Next, skip 8 st and join to ninth stitch with a 98 ARMS sc. This sc will be the first stitch of the next round. Rnd 53 – 54: sc in all 8 st [8] Stuff the toe lightly. Rnd 55: dec 4 times [4] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Rejoin the graphite gray yarn in the first unworked stitch next to the first toe and repeat Rnd 53-55 to make the second toe. SECOND LEG Rejoin the brown yarn in the fifth unworked stitch at the back of round 27. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 28: sc in next 16 st. When you reach the 16th stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [16] Rnd 29 – 55: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 4 stitches between the legs closed. Sew the body between rounds 21 and 29 of the head. (make 2, start in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to brown yarn. Rnd 8 – 26: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 27: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 3 and 4. HORNS (make 2, in cream) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st [8] Rnd 4: sc in all 8 st [8] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 4 st [10] Rnd 6: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 7: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [12] Rnd 8: dec, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, dec [12] Rnd 9: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. Sew the horns to the top of the head, between rounds 26 and 30, next to the cream patch. OUTER EARS (make 2, in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 5: sc in all 15 st [15] 99 Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 7: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 8: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] Rnd 9: sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 10: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 11: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 12: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 13 – 16: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 17: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 18: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 19: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 20: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 21 – 22: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. INNER EARS (make 2, in pastel pink) Ch 11. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 8 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 9 st [22] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the inner ear to the center of the inside of the brown ear. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the bottom 3 stitches together. Sew the ears to the head, below the horns, between rounds 26 and 29. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 HAIR (in cream) Note: Every time I make Ramona Cow I crochet her a different hairdo, so you can play around and do as many hair strands as you like. She even looks gorgeous without her fringe. Insert the hook in round 23 of the head, into the cream patch, about 5 stitches away from the brown yarn. Row 1: (ch 4, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 3 st, slst in next stitch on the head) repeat 7 times [7 hair strands] 100 Turn the head and continue working in round 24 of the head. Row 2: (ch 4, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 3 st, slst in next stitch on the head) repeat 9 times [9 hair strands] Turn the head and continue working in round 25 of the head. Row 3: (ch 4, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 3 st, slst in next stitch on the head) repeat 9 times [9 hair strands] Turn the head and continue working in round 26 of the head. Row 4: (ch 4, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 3 st, slst in next stitch on the head) repeat 7 times [7 hair strands] Turn the head and continue working in round 27 of the head. Row 5: (ch 4, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 3 st, slst in next stitch on the head) repeat 7 times [7 hair strands] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. JUMPSUIT The jumpsuit is made with two rectangles that are sewn together. RECTANGLE (make 2, in pastel mint) Ch 33. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, slst in next 8 st, hdslst in next 18 st, slst in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [32] Row 2: work this row in BLO, slst in next 6 st, hdslst in next 18 st, slst in next 8 st, ch 1, turn [32] Row 3: work this row in BLO, slst in next 8 st, hdslst in next 18 st, slst in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [32] Row 4 – 27: repeat rows 2-3 Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Fold the first rectangle lengthwise in half, with the right side facing outward. Using a tapestry needle and the leftover yarn tail, sew the section of 6 slst of Row 1 and 27 together to create the first leg opening. Repeat for the second rec tangle. Then, line up the open edge of both rectangles. Sew next 18 hdslst (for the jumpsuit) together, then sew next 8 slst (for the waistband) together. Repeat this for the remaining open edge at the back side. Note: I used the mattress stitch for sewing, but you can use any sewing technique. Grab a strand of yarn from each edge, alternating back and forth. Insert the needle from top to bottom through the top loop on one side, then insert the needle from top to bottom through the bottom loop on the other side. 101 SHOULDER STRAPS (make 2, in pastel mint) Leave a long starting yarn tail. Ch 27. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 26 st, ch 1, turn [26] Row 2: BLO slst in all 26 st [26] You can fasten off at this point or make one of the following edgings. EDGING OPTION A (making the shell stitch) Ch 1, turn. Crochet in rows. Row 3: sc in next st, (skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, slst in next st) repeat 6 times, sc in last st. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Repeat for the other shoulder strap. EDGING OPTION B (making ruffles, using fingering weight yarn and a 2.00 mm crochet hook) Draw up a loop of fingering weight yarn in the first stitch of the shoulder strap. Crochet in rows. Row 3: inc in all 26 st, ch 2, turn [52] Row 4: (hdc in next st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 26 times, ch 1, turn [78] Row 5: slst in all 78 st [78] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Repeat for the other shoulder strap. OPTION A OPTION B Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 102 Sew the straps to the front and back of the jumpsuit, covering the top of the waistband. CARDIGAN The cardigan is made with two hexagons that are folded and crocheted or sewn together (I include both options). Note: Count the ch 3 at the beginning as 1 dc. Count the ch 2 at the beginning as 1 hdc. Note: Crochet in joined rounds. HEXAGONS (make 2, start in yellow) Rnd 1: start in a magic ring: ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) repeat 5 times, slst in third starting ch to join the round [18 + 6 ch] Change to cream yarn. Rnd 2: ch 3, dc in next 2 st, 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc in next ch-1 space, (dc in next 3 st, 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc in next ch-1 space) repeat 5 times, slst in third starting ch to join the round [42 + 12 ch] Change to turmeric yellow yarn. Rnd 3: ch 3, dc in next 4 st, 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc in next ch-2 space, (dc in next 7 st, 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc in next ch-2 space) repeat 5 times, dc in next 2 st, slst in third starting ch to join the round [66 + 12 ch] Note: Do not worry if you start to see creases, these are the result of the large number of stitches and will create the cardigan’s sleeves. Change to cream yarn. Rnd 4: ch 3, dc in next 6 st, 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc in next ch-2 space, (dc in next 11 st, 2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc in next ch-2 space) repeat 5 times, dc in next 4 st, slst in third starting ch to join the round [90 + 12 ch] Change to turmeric yellow yarn. Rnd 5: ch 2, hdc in next 8 st, 2 hdc + ch 2 + 2 hdc in next ch-2 space, (hdc in next 15 st, 2 hdc + ch 2 + 2 hdc in next ch-2 space) repeat 5 times, hdc in next 6 st, slst in second starting ch to join the round [114 + 12 ch] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. ASSEMBLY Fold one hexagon in half and hold the points together with a stitch marker. You will have an L-shape when folded. Repeat for the other hexagon. Line up the straight side of the hexagons as shown in the pictures. Join on one side, either by using a crochet hook (using the flat slip stitch seam technique) or by sewing them together with a tapestry needle, using the mattress stitch. Then, join the shoulders. Mark 16 stitches for each shoulder and sew them together. EDGING (in pale pink) With the right side facing up, insert the hook at the front of the neckline, left shoulder. Note: Your total stitch count might vary in these rounds, based on whether you’ve sewn/crocheted these pieces together. Rnd 1: slst in next 4 st, 2 sc in next ch-2-space, sc in next 19/20 st, 2 sc in next ch-2-space, sc in next 42/43 st, 2 sc in next ch-2-space, sc in next 20 st, 2 sc in next ch-2-space, slst in next 17/18 st (neckline) [approx. 114] Rnd 2: BLO slst in all 114 st [114] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SLEEVE CUFFS (in pale pink) Join pale pink yarn in a bottom center stitch of the sleeve. Note: Your total stitch count might vary in these rounds, based on whether you’ve sewn/crocheted these pieces together. Rnd 1: sc in all st [22/23] Rnd 2: BLO slst in all st [22/23] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Work the second sleeve cuff in the same way. 103 LL LEVEL ** KI * S Peggy is a costume designer. She creates outfits and accessories for film and stage actors. Period dramas were her favorite plays when she was a tiny little hippo, but when Peggy coincidentally landed a job working in sci-fi in a major Hollywood studio (a story I'll tell another time), she found her creative purpose: imagining how beings in other worlds, times and universes would dress, how they would adapt to new environments and what their clothes would mean in their societies. She's aware she has a super important job, because costumes identify a character as much as the actor who plays the part. Imagine Indiana Jones without his iconic hat, or Leia Organa without her dress and hairdo. Size: 12.5 inches / 32 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · mink brown · pastel pink (leftover) · off-white · yellow · cream · subtle green - Fingering or light sport weight yarn (optional) in · yellow – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size B-1 / 2 mm crochet hook (optional) – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), working around a foundation chain (page 34), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), working jacquard crochet from a diagram (page 36), half double slip stitch (page 26), crab stitch (page 30), mattress stitch (page 100), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4110 to share pictures and find inspiration. HEAD (in mink brown) Ch 8. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 5 st, 4 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 5 st, inc in last st [18] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st [26] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 6 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st [34] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st [42] Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 42 st [42] Note: In round 8 you add the hippo’s nostrils. Check if they’re aligned at an Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 104 equal distance from the center and correct if necessary. Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 8 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 26 st [42] Rnd 9 – 15: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 16: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 7 times, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st [50] Rnd 17: sc in all 50 st [50] Rnd 18: sc in next 8 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 7 times, inc in next st, sc in next 27 st [58] Rnd 19 – 30: sc in all 58 st [58] Rnd 31: (dec, sc in next 10 st) repeat 3 times, dec, sc in next 20 st [54] Rnd 32: sc in all 54 st [54] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 22 and 23, with an interspace of about 24 stitches. Embroider cheeks below the eyes with pastel pink yarn. Rnd 33: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 34: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 35: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 36: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Stuff the head firmly. Rnd 37: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 38: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 39: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 40: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. 105 BODY (start in mink brown) Leave a long starting yarn tail. Ch 30. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 30 st [30] Continue working in a jacquard pattern, alternating off-white and yellow yarn. The color you work is indicated before each part. Note: In the next round you will read ½ inc in next st. Work the first stitch of this increase in one color and the second stitch in the other color. Rnd 3: ((yellow) sc in next 4 st, ½ inc in next st, (off-white) ½ inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 4: (off-white) sc in next st, ((yellow) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 3 st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st [36] Rnd 5: (off-white) (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 6: ((off-white) sc in next 4 st, (yellow) sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 7: (off-white) sc in next 3 st, ((yellow) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 4 st [42] Rnd 8: (yellow) sc in next st, ((off-white) sc in next 2 st, (yellow) sc in next 5 st) repeat 5 times, (off-white) sc in next 2 st, (yellow) sc in next 4 st [42] Rnd 9: (yellow) sc in next st, (off-white) sc in next st, inc in next st, ((yellow) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 4 st [48] Rnd 10: (yellow) sc in next st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, ((yellow) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 3 st [48] Rnd 11: (off-white) sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 12: (off-white) sc in next st, ((yellow) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st [48] Rnd 13: ((yellow) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next st [54] Rnd 14 – 15: ((yellow) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 5 st, (offwhite) sc in next 4 st [54] Rnd 16: (off-white) sc in next st, ((yellow) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st) repeat 5 times, (yellow) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st [54] Rnd 17: (off-white) (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Change to mink brown yarn. Rnd 18: BLO sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 19 – 26: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 27: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 28 – 31: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 32: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 33 – 36: sc in all 48 st [48] Do not fasten off Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 106 LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 4 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 20 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). Join the first marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 37 – 46: sc in all 20 st [20] Stuff the body and leg firmly. Rnd 47: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 48: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 49: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the mink brown yarn in the fifth unworked stitch at the back of round 36. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 37: sc in next 20 st. When you reach the 20th st of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [20] Rnd 38 – 49: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 4 stitches between the legs closed. Sew the body between rounds 19 and 30 of the head. 107 OUTER EARS INNER EARS (make 2, in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 10: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the inner ear to the center of the inside of the mink brown ear, between rounds 5 and 8. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the bottom 3 stitches together. Sew the ears to the top of the head, over rounds 28 to 32. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 108 ARMS (make 2, start in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 6: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 13 st [15] Rnd 7 – 16: sc in all 15 st [15] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 17 – 22: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 23: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 3 and 4. TROUSERS (in subtle green) The trousers are made with two crochet rectangles that are sewn together. RECTANGLE (make 2, in subtle green) Ch 25. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 6 st, hdslst in next 18 st, ch 1, turn [24] Row 2: work this row in BLO, hdslst in next 18 st, slst in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [24] Row 3: work this row in BLO, slst in next 6 st, hdslst in next 18 st, ch 1, turn [24] Row 4 – 31: repeat rows 2 and 3. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. ASSEMBLY Line up the edges of both rectangles as shown in the pictures, with the right sides facing outward. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 18 stitches of the rise together (leave the section of 6 slst at the bottom unsewn for now). Note: I used the mattress stitch for sewing, but you 109 stitch (corner of the neckline). Continue on the neckline, sc in next 41 st, 3 sc in last st, work about 12 sc down the other side, 3 sc in last st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. can use any sewing technique. Turn your work, with the wrong side facing outward. Fold the first rectangle lengthwise to cover the first half. Using a tapestry needle, you now sew the section of 6 slst together to create the first leg opening. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Then, fold the second rectangle lengthwise in half and sew the 18 stitches of the rise and the 6 slst of the second leg opening together. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. SLEEVES With the right side of the cardigan facing you, rejoin the cream yarn in the bottom right stitch of the armhole. Ch 2. Rnd 1: hdc in next 9 st, 2 sc in the side post of the armhole, sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in the side post of the armhole [20] Rnd 2: hdc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 3: (hdc in next st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 10 times [30] Rnd 4 – 6: hdc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 7: (hdc in next st, dec) repeat 10 times [20] Rnd 8: hdc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 9: ch 1, crab stitch in next 20 st [20] Slst in next st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. WAISTBAND (in subtle green) Rejoin the subtle green yarn in a row-end at the back of the trousers. Rnd 1: (sc in next 29 row-ends, dec) repeat 2 times [60] Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 6: slst in next 60 st [60] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 CARDIGAN (in cream) Ch 44. Crochet in rows. Note: The ch 2 at the end of each row is a turning chain and does not count as a hdc stitch. Row 1: start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next 42 st, ch 2, turn [42] Row 2: hdc in next 6 st, hdc inc in next st, ch 9, skip next 7 st, hdc in next 14 st, ch 9, skip next 7 st, hdc inc in next st, hdc in next 6 st, ch 2, turn [48] Row 3: hdc in next 48 st, ch 2, turn [48] Row 4: (hdc in next 7 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 6 times, ch 2, turn [54] Row 5 – 6: hdc in next 54 st, ch 2, turn [54] Row 7: (hdc in next 8 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 6 times, ch 2, turn [60] Row 8: hdc in next 60 st, ch 1, turn [60] Single crochet an edge all around the cardigan: sc in next 59 st on the waistband, 3 sc in last st, work about 12 sc up the first side, 3 sc in next BOBBLY EDGING OR POMPON BORDER (with yellow fingering weight yarn and a size B-1 / 2 mm crochet hook) Holding the cardigan upside down, with the front side facing you, join the yellow fingering weight yarn in the bottom right corner. First pompon bobble: ch 5, 4-dc-bobble in third ch from the hook, ch 3, 4-dc-bobble in third ch from the hook. Join the two bobbles by making a slst in the third ch from the starting chain. Ch 2, slst in first st where the ch 5 starts. Do not fasten off but continue crocheting the next pompon bobbles. Next pompon bobbles: (ch 5, 4-dc-bobble in third ch from the hook, ch 3, 4-dc-bobble in third ch from the hook. Join the two bobbles by making a slst in the third ch from the starting chain. Ch 2, skip 2 st, slst in next st) repeat until the end of the row [about 22 bobbles] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. 110 111 Mabel is a kindergarten teacher. You may see her dressing as a fairy (she’s lucky to have Peggy Hippo as her friend) and singing and smiling all day long. And you might think: Oh! What an easy and fun job she has! And part of it is true, it’s super fun, but it’s not easy at all. Being a teacher to small critters is one of the most important jobs in the world: she has to help the little tots grasp the meaning of numbers and letters, but also has the hard task of teaching them social skills, such as taking turns, making conversation with peers, managing emotions. Mabel also is an excellent darts player. She started playing with her friend Angus a couple of years ago and quickly entered the league of professional dart players. Another excellent way to practice emotion management. LL LEVEL ** KI Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. * S GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4111 to share pictures and find inspiration. Size: 8 inches / 20 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (hair included) CHEEKS Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · olive · cream · teal green · subtle green · pastel pink · black (leftover) · mustard yellow · pale pink – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), changing color mid-round (page 35), dividing the body in 2 parts (page 47), embroidery (page 38), joining parts (page 39), working jacquard crochet from a diagram (page 36) Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 SNOUT (in cream) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 10 [10] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and the mouth with black yarn. 112 HEAD AND BODY (start in olive) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Continue working with alternating yarns (olive and cream). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 11: (olive) sc in next 21 st, (cream) sc in next 18 st, (olive) sc in next 21 st [60] Rnd 12: (olive) sc in next 20 st, (cream) sc in next 20 st, (olive) sc in next 20 st [60] 113 35 34 33 Rnd 13: (olive) sc in next 19 st, (cream) sc in next 22 st, (olive) sc in next 19 st [60] Rnd 14 – 20: (olive) sc in next 18 st, (cream) sc in next 24 st, (olive) sc in next 18 st [60] Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 18 in the center of the cream patch. Stuff the snout lightly with fiberfill before closing the seam. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Sew the cheeks behind the safety eyes. Continue working in a jacquard pattern, alternating subtle green and teal green yarn according to the diagram. Rnd 21 – 32: sc in all 60 st [60] Continue working with alternating yarns (olive and cream). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Note: In the next rounds, we’re working the cream patch for the belly. If the cream belly patch doesn’t line up nicely with the cream face patch, crochet a few more sc in olive yarn or undo them. Rnd 33: work this round in BLO (olive) sc in next 24 st, (cream) sc in next 15 st, (olive) sc in next 21 st [60] Rnd 34: (olive) sc in next 24 st, (cream) sc in next 15 st, (olive) sc in next 21 st [60] Rnd 35: (olive) sc in next 25 st, (cream) sc in next 13 st, (olive) sc in next 22 st [60] Continue working in olive yarn. Rnd 36 – 37: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 38: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 39: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 40: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 41: sc in all 42 st [42] Do not fasten off. 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 6 stitches for the front central space between the legs, 6 stitches 114 for the back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may find it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don't line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the first marked stitch for the leg on the back side to the marked stitch on the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Rnd 42 – 43: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 44: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 45 – 47: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 48: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Stuff the body and leg firmly. SECOND LEG Rejoin the olive yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at the back of round 41. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Rnd 42: sc in next 15 st. When you reach the 15th stitch of the leg, sc in first st to join the round [15] Rnd 43 – 48: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stuffing to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle and the starting yarn tail, sew the 6 stitches between the legs closed. ARMS (make 2, in olive) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [8] Rnd 4: sc in all 8 st [8] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [10] Rnd 6 – 13: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 22 and 23. EARS (make 2, in cream) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and sew the ears to the top of the head, over rounds 10 to 13, about 2 stitches away from the cream patch. 115 HAIR (in olive) Insert the hook in round 20 of the body, right next to the cream face patch. Pull up a loop of olive yarn. Row 1: (ch 4, start in second ch from hook, slst in next 3 ch, slst in next st on the head) repeat in all olive stitches around the cream face patch. When you reach the bottom side of the cream face patch, turn your work and continue making hair strands in the other direction, repeating row 1 in all olive stitches of the head. SKIRT (start in mustard yellow) Ch 56. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1: sc in all 56 st [56] Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [64] Rnd 3: sc in all 64 st [64] Rnd 4: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [72] Rnd 5: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 6: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [80] Rnd 7: sc in all 80 st [80] Change to pale pink yarn. Rnd 8: (sc in next st, skip next st, 5 dc in next st, skip next st) repeat 20 times [120] Rnd 9: slst in all 120 st [120] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. WAISTBAND (in mustard yellow) Rejoin the mustard yellow yarn in the first stitch of round 1 of the skirt. Rnd 1: sc in all 56 st [56] Rnd 2: slst in all 56 st [56] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 FAIRY WINGS BUTTON (start in mustard yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Change to cream yarn. Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating mustard yellow and cream yarn. Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 6: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 7: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. 116 WINGS (make 2, in subtle green) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 7: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 2 times [18] Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 10: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 2 times [16] Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 13: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 16: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times [12] Rnd 17 – 19: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 20: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The wings do not need to be stuffed. Use teal green yarn to embroider the embellishments on the wings. Flatten and sew them to the back of the button. STRAPS (in pale pink) Ch 42. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Ch 42 again, and making sure your chain isn’t twisted, insert the hook in the first chain to join the second foundation chain. You will have an 8-shape. Rnd 1: slst in all 84 ch, all around the double foundation chain [84] Fasten off. Sew the wings to the crossing center of the double foundation chain. Weave in the yarn ends. 117 Indiana has one of the coolest jobs around… she is an archivist! Ok, I know, it may not seem so attractive, and her species is not known for preserving things but, and probably because of that, she spent years studying and specializing in collecting, organizing, and maintaining valuable objects. And she’s one of the best in her field. Indiana works shoulder to shoulder with Gertrude Dragon, the archaeologist. When Gertrude finds a very old manuscript, Indiana flies to the site and makes sure it is well preserved, so it never gets lost or damaged. They have become such close friends, that they are planning their summer holiday together. But they can’t decide if they want an adventure or just a beach trip to relax. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4112 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. CHEEKS (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Size: 14 inches / 36 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (antennae included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · cream · slate gray · pale pink · burnt orange · pastel pink · graphite gray · black (leftover) – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black oval safety eyes (12 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), work around a foundation chain (page 34), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), working jacquard crochet from a diagram (page 36), basket spike stitch (page 29), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) HEAD AND BODY (start in cream) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] 118 Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9 – 14: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 15: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Rnd 16: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Embroider the mouth with black yarn between rounds 12 and 13. The mouth must be embroidered on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, about 2 stitches away from the mouth. Sew the cheeks behind the safety eyes. Rnd 17: inc in all 30 st [60] Stuff the head and continue stuffing as you go. Change to slate gray yarn. 119 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Rnd 18: (BLO sc in next st, spike st) repeat 30 times [60] Change to cream yarn. Rnd 19: (spike st, BLO sc in next st) repeat 30 times [60] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating slate gray and cream yarn. Rnd 20 – 25: repeat rounds 18 and 19. Change to pastel pink yarn. Rnd 26: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 20 times [40] Continue in jacquard pattern, alternating pastel pink, pale pink, burnt orange and slate gray yarn according to the diagram. Rnd 27 – 42: sc in all 40 st [40] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating cream and slate gray yarn. Rnd 43: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 4 times [36] Rnd 44: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 45: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 46: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 47: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 48: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 49: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 50: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Continue in slate gray yarn. Add more stuffing to the body if needed. Rnd 51: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. ARMS (make 2, in slate gray) Rnd 1: start 7 sc in a magic ring [7] Rnd 2 – 14: sc in all 7 st [7] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with fiberfill. Sew the arms to both sides between rounds 26 and 27. 120 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 12 11 10 LEGS BOOTS (make 2, in slate gray) Rnd 1: start 7 sc in a magic ring [7] Rnd 2 – 22: sc in all 7 st [7] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with fiberfill. Sew the legs to both sides between rounds 41 and 42. (make 2, in graphite gray) Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 3 st, 4 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in 121 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 122 Rnd 32: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the wings before sewing them to the back between rounds 20 and 24. With pastel pink yarn, make a 2" / 5 cm pompon and sew it to the back, over rounds 20 and 22, between the wings. last st [14] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st [20] Rnd 3: BLO sc in next 9 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 7 st [18] Rnd 4: sc in next 6 st, dec 4 times, sc in next 4 st [14] Rnd 5: sc in next 6 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 4 st [12] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 8: slst in all 12 st [12] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Join the graphite gray yarn in the last front loop stitch of round 3 and FLO slst in all 20 st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. ANTENNAE (make 2, in slate gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 14: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 15: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 16: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Embroider the embellishments on the antennae with cream yarn. Flatten them before sewing them on top of the head. WINGS (make 2, start in cream) Leave a long starting yarn tail to sew the wing on later. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [16] Rnd 5: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 7: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 8: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [24] Rnd 9: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 10: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [28] Rnd 11: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 12: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [32] Continue in a jacquard pattern, alternating cream, pastel pink and burnt orange yarn according to the diagram. Rnd 13 – 20: sc in all 32 st [32] Change to burnt orange yarn. Rnd 21: sc in next 14 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 14 st [30] Rnd 22: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 23: sc in next 13 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 13 st [28] Rnd 24: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 25: sc in next 12 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 12 st [26] Rnd 26: sc in all 26 st [26] Rnd 27: sc in next 11 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 11 st [24] Rnd 28: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 29: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 30: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 4 times [16] Rnd 31: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 123 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Everyone loves Alberto. While we all agree that seagulls aren't the most perfect birds in the animal kingdom — a bit too noisy, not always in the best mood and with a controversial diet (they love eating trash) — everyone thinks Alberto is perfect in his own way. He is a professional photographer. He's the best at aerial photography and his work has been exhibited in the most exclusive galleries in the world as well as museums. Alberto was also a lover of crab patties, but that changed when he met Philip Lobster. From that moment on he eliminated all crustaceans from his diet and is trying to change to plant-based meals only… at least when Philip is around. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4113 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK Size: 11 inches / 28 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · off-white · yellow · white · French blue · ash gray · graphite gray (leftover) · pastel pink · subtle green – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size D-3 / 3.25 mm crochet hook (optional) – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), crochet an elongated back (explained in the pattern), embroidery (page 38), joining parts (page 39) Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. Note: Use a size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook, unless otherwise noted. BEAK Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (in yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 12: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. HEAD AND BODY (start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] 124 Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7 – 19: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to French blue yarn. Rnd 20: sc in all 36 st [36] Sew the beak between rounds 15 and 19. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, about 3 stitches away from the beak. Embroider the cheeks with pastel pink yarn. Continue in a stripe pattern, alter nating 2 rounds in white and 1 round in French blue yarn. Rnd 21 – 35: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 36: BLO sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 37: Find the middle back of the seagull body. If you are not there yet, continue crocheting until that point. Then, ch 9. (Place a stitch marker in the next st you make – the first you will make on the foundation chain, this will mark the beginning of the next rounds.) Crochet back on the chain, start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 125 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 126 8 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the body and sc in next 36 st, continue on the other side of the chain and sc in next 7 st, inc in last st [54] Rnd 38: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 50 st, inc in next 2 st [58] Rnd 39: inc in next 3 st, sc in next 53 st, inc in next 2 st [63] Rnd 40 – 42: sc in all 63 st [63] Stuff the body and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 43: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 52 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [61] Rnd 44: sc in all 61 st [61] Rnd 45: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 50 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [59] Rnd 46: sc in all 59 st [59] Rnd 47: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 48 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [57] Rnd 48: sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 23 st [55] Rnd 49: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 44 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [53] Rnd 50: sc in next 22 st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 21 st [51] Rnd 51: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 19 st, dec, sc in next 19 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [48] Rnd 52: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 53: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 54: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 55: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 56: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 57: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 58: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Add more stuffing if needed. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. LEGS (make 2, in yellow) Leave a long starting yarn tail. Ch 10. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 10: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the leg. Note: Make sure to stuff the legs with enough fiberfill, without overstuffing, so that the seagull holds up as well as possible (but always remember that he’s a crocheted toy made with yarn, so do not get frustrated if he cannot stand all by himself). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and, using a tapestry needle, close the opening of the last round. Sew the feet to the legs. Sew the legs to the body between rounds 52 to 55. FEET WINGS (make 2, in yellow) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [25] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 25 st [25] (make 2, in ash gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6 – 8: sc in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The wings do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and sew the wings to both sides of the body between rounds 41 and 42. 127 TAIL (in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2 – 8: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Flatten the tail. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 39 and 40. HAT (in pastel pink, using a size D-3 / 3.25 mm crochet hook) Note: You can work the hat with the same crochet hook size that you used for the rest of the body, but just keep in mind that the result might be tighter, so you’ll have to add a few more rows or loosen your tension a bit. Ch 20. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in third ch from the hook, hdc in next 18 st, ch 2, turn [18] Row 2 – 18: BLO hdc in all 18 st, ch 2, turn [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 You will end with a crochet rectangle. Line up row 1 and 18 and, using a tapestry needle, sew both sides together to form a tube. Do not fasten off. Using the same yarn tail, sew through each row-end at the top of the tube. Pull the yarn tail so the round tightens and weave in the ends by sewing back and forth to close the hat opening. Flip the hat inside out. With subtle green yarn, make a 1.2 inches / 3 cm pompon and sew it to the top of the hat. 128 129 Astrid was the most curious but also the most introverted and shy tiny big bird. She spent most of her childhood watching adventure films. From Indiana Jones to The Goonies, from 20.000 leagues under the sea to The Adventures of Robin Hood, superheroes movies and sci-fi, even romantic movies. Astrid learned the lines by heart, she even studied the composition and camera angles. When she was tall enough to hold a camera, she started filming her own short movies. Probably none of those films will go down in history as classics, but Astrid plans to start Film School, so her oeuvre will definitely improve. Recently, she discovered French cinema and now she doesn’t set foot outside without her beret. As cliche as it may look, it does make her happy. And that’s all that matters. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4114 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 16 inches / 40 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · pastel mint · teal green · greenish gray (leftover) · French blue · pastel pink · off-white · yellow – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), changing color mid-round (page 35), work around a foundation chain (page 34), crochet an elongated back (page 126), embroidery (page 38), joining parts (page 39) Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. Rnd 14: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [20] Rnd 15: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with fiberfill. CHEEKS (make 2, in greenish gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 BEAK (in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [16] Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 11: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [18] Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 18 st [18] 130 HEAD AND BODY (start in pastel mint) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [27] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [36] Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [45] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 9 times [54] Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 11: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 12 – 14: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 15: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 16 – 19: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 20: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] 131 47 46 45 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Sew the beak between rounds 13 and 17. The beak must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, about 2 stitches away from the beak. Sew the cheeks between rounds 14 and 18. Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Stuff the head and continue stuffing the body as you go. Rnd 25 – 44: sc in all 24 st [24] Continue in a jacquard pattern, alternating pastel mint and teal green yarn according to the diagram. Note: In round 45 the increase counts as 2 stitches. This means that sometimes the increase will be made with 2 stitches of the same color, and sometimes it will be made with one stitch in each color. Rnd 45: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 30 st [30] Continue in teal green yarn. Rnd 48: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 49: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 50: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 12 times [48] Rnd 51: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 52: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 12 times [60] Rnd 53: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 54: Find the middle back of the ostrich body. If you are not there yet, continue crocheting until that point (I had to crochet 9 sc to get there). Then, ch 6. (Place a stitch marker in the next st you make – the first you will make on the foundation chain, this will mark the beginning of the next rounds.) Crochet back on the chain, inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 4 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the body and sc in next 60 st, continue on the other side of the chain and sc in next 4 st, inc in last st [73] Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 132 Rnd 55: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 69 st, inc in next 2 st [77] Rnd 56: inc in next 3 st, sc in next 72 st, inc in next 2 st [82] Rnd 57 – 59: sc in all 82 st [82] Rnd 60: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 70 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [80] Rnd 61: sc in all 80 st [80] Rnd 62: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 68 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [78] Rnd 63: sc in all 78 st [78] Rnd 64: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 28 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [74] Rnd 65: sc in all 74 st [74] Rnd 66: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [70] Rnd 67: sc in all 70 st [70] Rnd 68: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 10 times [60] Rnd 69: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 70: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 71: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 72: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 73: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 74: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 75: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 76: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 77: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. LEGS FEET (make 2, start in teal green) Leave a long starting yarn tail and ch 14. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Work in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating teal green and off-white yarn. Rnd 1 – 8: sc in all 14 st [14] Continue in pastel pink yarn. Stuff with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 9 – 24: sc in all 14 st [14] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (make 2, in pastel pink) Start with the toes, make 3. Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2 – 6: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off the first and second toe, leaving a yarn tail. Do not fasten off the third toe. We will be joining the toes to make the foot. Rnd 7: sc in next 4 st on the second toe, sc in all 8 st on the first toe, sc in leftover 4 st on the second toe, sc in all 8 st on the third toe [24] You can sew the gaps between the toes closed using your tapestry needle and the 133 leftover yarn tails. Stuff the toes a little. Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 11: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 12: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 13: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 4 times [16] Rnd 14: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 15: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 16: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 17: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 3 times [9] Stuff the feet a little more. Rnd 18: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Sew the feet to the legs. WINGS (make 2, start in teal green) Leave a long starting yarn tail to sew the wings to the body. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7 – 12: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to pastel mint yarn. Do not stuff. Next, we will divide the wing to make 3 feathers, using 12 stitches for each feather. FIRST FEATHER Rnd 1: skip 24 st and join the last stitch to the 25th stitch of the previous round with a sc stitch, sc in next 11 st [12] Rnd 2 – 12: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 13: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND FEATHER Rejoin the pastel mint yarn to the stitch to the left of the first feather Rnd 1: sc in next 6 st and join the last stitch to the 6th stitch to the right side of the first feather. This sc will be the first stitch of the next round. Rnd 2 – 13: repeat the pattern for the first feather. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. THIRD FEATHER Rejoin the pastel mint yarn to the stitch to the left of the second feather. Rnd 1: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 2 – 13: repeat the pattern for the first feather. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Use yellow yarn to embroider the embellishments on the feathers. Sew the wings over rounds 52 to 65. You can put some fiberfill stuffing between the wings and the body of the ostrich. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 TAIL LARGE FEATHER (in pastel mint) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 7: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 2 times [18] Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 10: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 2 times [16] Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 13: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 14 st [14] 134 135 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 136 Rnd 16: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times [12] Rnd 17: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing. The large feather does not need to be stuffed. Use yellow yarn to embroider the embellishments. Flatten and sew the large feather to the back, centered over rounds 55 and 56. SMALL FEATHER (make 2, in teal green) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [16] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 6: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 9: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times [12] Rnd 10: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The small feathers do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and sew the small feathers below the large feather, one next to the other, between rounds 57 and 58. BERET (start in off-white) Work in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating off-white and blue yarn. Work in joined rounds. Note: If you make the beret in a single color, there is no need to join the rounds. Rnd 1: start 9 hdc in a magic ring, slst in first st, ch 1 [9] Rnd 2: hdc inc in all 9 st, slst in first st, ch 1 [18] Rnd 3: (hdc in next st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 9 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [27] Rnd 4: (hdc in next 2 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 9 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [36] Rnd 5: (hdc in next 3 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 9 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [45] Rnd 6: (hdc in next 4 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 9 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [54] Rnd 7: (hdc in next 2 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 18 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [72] Rnd 8: (hdc in next 3 st, hdc inc in next st) repeat 18 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [90] Rnd 9: hdc in all 90 st, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [90] Rnd 10: (hdc in next 3 st, hdc dec) repeat 18 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [72] Rnd 11: (hdc in next 2 st, hdc dec) repeat 18 times, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [54] Change to pastel pink yarn. Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 54 st, slst in first st to join the round, ch 1 [54] Rnd 14: slst in al 54 st, slst in first st to join the round [54] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. RIBBON (start in pastel pink) Ch 19. Crochet in rows Row 1: start in second ch from hook, slst in all 18 st, ch 1, turn [18] Change to off-white yarn. Row 2 – 3: BLO slst in all 18 st, ch 1, turn [18] Change to pink yarn. Row 4: BLO slst in all 18 st, ch 1, turn [18] Row 5: BLO slst in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the ribbon on the inside of the beret, row 12 POMPON (start in yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating off-white and yellow yarn. Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 10: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Stuff the pompon with fiberfill. Rnd 11: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the pompon to the top of the beret. 137 As all members of her family, Greta learned crochet, knitting and embroidery when she was only a little chick. And then she got bored of all that. She felt it was a pastime for old hens. And she was anything but an old hen. Years passed. Greta pursued an art career but couldn’t find her place in the world. Until one day she saw an art installation made from yarn. All the skills she was taught in one gigantic piece of art that blew her away. Now, Greta happily confirms the crafter stereotype: she loves period drama, her cup of tea, chatting with her friends and, of course, stocking the biggest yarn stash you could possibly imagine. Since she's a yarn artist, she has a reasonable excuse. But it IS a lot of yarn. A don’t-tell-your-friends-because-they-probably-think-you're-insane lot of yarn. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4115 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 12.5 inches / 32 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (comb included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · cream · yellow · brick red · pastel pink (leftover) · pastel mint · graphite gray – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size D-3 / 3.25 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), dividing the body in two parts (page 47), working around a foundation chain (page 34), crochet an elongated back (page 126), embroidery (page 38), joining parts (page 39) Note: Use a size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook, unless otherwise noted. HEAD AND BODY Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. (in cream) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8 – 21: sc in all 42 st [42] Sew the beak between rounds 11 and 14. The beak must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, about 3 stitches away from the beak. Sew the cheeks below the safety eyes. Rnd 22: sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st, inc in next st, sc in next 10 st [44] Rnd 23 – 25: sc in all 44 st [44] Rnd 26: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) CHEEKS Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. BEAK (in yellow) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [7] Rnd 4: sc in all 7 st [7] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [9] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 9 st [9] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. 138 139 repeat 4 times [48] Rnd 27 – 29: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 30: Find the middle back of the hen body. If you are not there yet, continue crocheting until that point. Then, ch 13. (Place a stitch marker in the next st you make – the first you will make on the foundation chain, this will mark the beginning of the next rounds.) Crochet back on the chain, inc in second ch from the hook, sc in next 11 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the body and sc in next 21 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 21 st, continue on the other side of the chain and sc in next 11 st, inc in last st [77] Rnd 31: inc next 2 st, sc in next 73 st, inc in next 2 st [81] Rnd 32: inc in next 3 st, sc in next 35 st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next 34 st, inc in next 2 st [88] Rnd 33: sc in all 88 st [88] Rnd 34: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 36 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 36 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [94] Rnd 35 – 36: sc in all 94 st [94] Rnd 37: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 37 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, inc in next st, sc in next 35 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [94] Rnd 38: sc in all 94 st [94] Rnd 39: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 83 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [92] Rnd 40: sc in all 92 st [92] Rnd 41: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 81 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [90] Rnd 42 – 43: sc in all 90 st [90] Rnd 44: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 34 st, dec, sc in next 9 st, dec, sc in next 32 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [86] Rnd 45 – 46: sc in all 86 st [86] Rnd 47: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 32 st, dec, sc in next 9 st, dec, sc in next 30 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [82] Rnd 48: sc in all 82 st [82] Rnd 49: sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 31 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 28 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [78] Rnd 50: sc in all 78 st [78] Rnd 51: (sc in next 11 st, dec) repeat 6 times [72] Rnd 52: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 53: (sc in next 10 st, dec) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 54: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 55: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 56: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Stuff the head and neck. Do not fasten off. LEGS To make the legs, divide the work identifying 24 stitches for each leg. Find the middle back stitch. If you are not there yet, continue crocheting until that point or undo some stitches if needed. Ch 8 and join the last chain stitch to the 24th stitch of the previous round, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the first stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the first leg are joined in the round. Continue working the first leg: Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 140 Rnd 57: sc in next 24 st on the body, BLO sc in next 8 ch [32] Rnd 58 – 59: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 60: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 8 times [24] Rnd 61: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 62: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 8 times [16] Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 63: BLO (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 64 – 69: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body and the leg firmly. SECOND LEG Rejoin the cream yarn in the first unworked stitch at the back of round 56. This is where we start the first stitch of the second leg. Rnd 57: sc in next 24 on the body, FLO sc in next 8 ch, sc in first st to join the round [32] Rnd 58 – 69: repeat the pattern for the first leg. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the leg firmly. FEET (make 2, in yellow) Start with the toes, make 3. Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2 – 6: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off the first and second toe, leaving a tail for sewing. Don’t fasten off the third toe. We will be joining the toes to make the foot. Rnd 7: sc in next 4 st on the second toe, sc in all 8 st on the first toe, sc in leftover 4 st on the second toe, sc in all 8 st on the third toe [24] You can sew the holes between the toes closed using your tapestry needle and the leftover yarn tails. Stuff them lightly. Rnd 8: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 9: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 10: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 11: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 4 times [16] Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 14: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Stuff the feet lightly. Rnd 15: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] 141 Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the feet a bit more. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Sew the feet to the legs. WINGS (make 2, in cream) Start with the feathers. SMALL FEATHER Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. MEDIUM FEATHER Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. LARGE FEATHER Rnd 1: start 7 sc in a magic ring [7] Rnd 2: inc in all 7 st [14] Rnd 3 – 9: sc in all 14 st [14] Do not fasten off, as we will be joining the feathers to make the wing. Rnd 10: sc in next 6 st on the medium feather, sc in all 10 st on the small feather, sc in left over 6 st on the medium feather, sc in all 14 st on the large feather [36] You can sew the holes between the feathers closed using the leftover yarn tails and your tapestry needle. Rnd 11: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 12: sc in next 27 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 5 st [34] Rnd 13: sc in all 34 st [34] Rnd 14: sc in next 26 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 4 st [32] Rnd 15: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 16: sc in next 25 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 3 st [30] Rnd 17: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 18: sc in next 24 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 2 st [28] Rnd 19: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 20: sc in next 23 st, dec 2 times, sc in next st [26] Rnd 21: sc in all 26 st [26] Rnd 22: sc in next 22 st, dec 2 times [24] Rnd 23: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 24: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 4 times [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The wings do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and sew the wings to both sides between rounds 34 and 44. COMB (in brick red) LARGE PART Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 8: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 MEDIUM PART Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 8: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. SMALL PART Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] 142 Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the parts of the comb and sew them to the top of the head. Sew the large part between rounds 4 and 5, the medium part behind the large part, between rounds 3 and 4, and the small part behind the medium part, between rounds 2 and 3. TAIL FEATHERS LARGE FEATHER (start in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Continue working in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating cream and graphite gray yarn. Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 9: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 10: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 13: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. SMALL FEATHER (make 2, start in graphite gray) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Continue working in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating cream and graphite gray yarn. Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16] Rnd 3 – 8: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The feathers do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and sew the feathers to the back, the large one centered between rounds 32 and 33. Sew the smaller ones on each side of the large feather. 143 SHAWL (using a size C-2 / 2.75 mm or a D-3 / 3.25 mm hook for a more fluid piece, in pastel mint) Ch 6. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in sixth ch from the hook, dc in this st, ch 3, turn. Row 2: 6 dc in next ch 3-space, ch 6, turn. Row 3: skip 2 st, sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 1 st, dc in the ch-3 turn ch, ch 3, turn. Row 4: 5 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st, 6 dc in next ch-3 space, ch 6, turn. Row 5: skip 2 st, sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 1 st, dc in next ch-3 space, ch 3, turn. Row 6: (5 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st) repeat 2 times, 6 dc in next ch-3 space ch 6, turn. Row 7: skip 2 st, sc in next 3 st, (ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times, ch 3, skip 1 st, dc in next ch-3-space, ch 3, turn. Row 8: (5 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st) repeat 3 times, 6 dc in next ch-3 space ch 6, turn. Row 9: skip 2 st, sc in next 3 st, (ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, ch 3, skip 1 st, dc in next ch-3-space, ch 3, turn. Row 10: (5 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st) repeat 4 times, 6 dc in next ch-3 space, ch 1. Do not turn. Do not fasten off. Continue making the edging. EDGING Row 1: crochet 30 sc down the first side (3 sc per dc, 3 sc per ch-3-space), ch 1, crochet 30 sc up the second side, ch 4, turn. Row 2: skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st, (ch 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 4 times, ch 3, skip 1 ch, (sc in next 3 st, ch 3, skip 3 st) repeat 5 times, sc in next ch, ch 3, turn. Row 3: 4 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st, (5 dc in next ch-3 space, Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st) repeat 4 times, 6 dc in next ch-3 space (the bottom corner, the tip of the shawl), skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st, (5 dc in next ch-3 space, skip 1 st, sc in next st, skip 1 st) repeat 4 times, 5 dc in last ch-3 space. Do not fasten off. Continue making the straps. STRAPS For the straps, ch 25, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 24 st, slst across the top (about 38 st), ch 25 to make the other strap, start in second ch from the hook, slst in next 24 st, slst in the stitch where the foundation chain starts. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. 144 145 Cosmo is a Botanist, a plant scientist. Plants are his passion. Especially flowers. Especially edible flowers. In recent years, he got excited about bakery as well. First, he was only interested in eating cakes, but now he’s also keen on making them. At first, he tried baking a cake on his own, but he soon discovered that not having hands could make some parts of the process, let’s say, challenging… not to mention slimy. But Cosmo wasn’t going to give up, so he partnered with his good old and giant friend, Eduardo Cutesaurus. Together they opened the first vegan bakery in town. That is, they only use plants to make delicious cakes. Obviously, adorned with the most beautiful edible flowers he knows. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4116 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 11.5 inches / 29 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (eye stalks included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · aqua blue · pale pink · yellow · pastel pink (leftover) · off-white (leftover) · black (leftover) – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), embroidery (page 38), joining parts (page 39), crochet an elongated back (page 126), working tapestry crochet (page 36), working jacquard crochet from a diagram (page 36), crab stitch (page 30) Note: The head and body are worked in one piece. CHEEKS (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 EYE WHITES (make 2, in off-white) Rnd 1: start 8 sc loosely in a magic ring [8] Do not close the ring too tightly. Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the safety eyes in the center of the eye whites, but do not close the washers yet. HEAD AND BODY (start in aqua blue) Start with the eye stalks, make 2. Rnd 1: start 7 sc in a magic ring [7] Rnd 2: inc in all 7 st [14] Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 14 st [14] Insert the safety eye with the eye white 146 between rounds 4 and 5. Close the washer and sew the eye white to the eye stalk. Rnd 8 – 16: sc in all 14 st [14] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end on the first eye stalk. Do not fasten off on the second eye stalk. We will be joining the eye stalks in the next round to make the head. Note: Start the next round at the side of the eye stalk. If you’re not there yet, crochet a few more sc on the eye stalk or undo them until you reach that point. Make sure that both eyes are facing in the same direction while joining them. Rnd 17: ch 4, sc in next 14 st on the first eye stalk, sc in next 4 ch, sc in next 14 st on the second eye stalk, sc in next 4 ch [36] Rnd 18: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 21: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 22 – 27: sc in all 48 st [48] Embroider the mouth between rounds 19 and 20 with black yarn. Sew the cheeks between rounds 17 and 21. Stuff the eye stalks lightly and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 28: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 29 – 32: sc in all 54 st [54] 147 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 34 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Change to pale pink. Rnd 33: sc in all 54 st [54] Continue working in a jacquard pattern, alternating yellow and pale pink yarn according to the diagram. Rnd 34 – 48: sc in all 54 st [54] Continue in pale pink yarn. Rnd 49: sc in all 54 st [54] Change to aqua blue. Rnd 50: BLO sc in all 54 [54] Rnd 51: sc in next 12 st. Find the side of the body. If you are not there yet, crochet a few more sc or undo them. Then, ch 17. (Place a stitch marker in the next st you make – the first you will make on the foundation chain, this will mark the beginning of the next rounds.) Crochet back on the chain, inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 15 st, sc in the stitch where the foun- dation chain starts, continue on the body and sc in next 54 st, continue on the other side of the chain and sc in next 16 st [88] Rnd 52: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 85 st, inc in next st [91] Rnd 53: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 86 st, inc in next st [94] Rnd 54 – 57: sc in all 94 st [94] Rnd 58: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 84 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [92] 148 Rnd 59: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 34 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 34 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [88] Rnd 60: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 32 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 32 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [84] Rnd 61: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 30 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 30 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [80] Rnd 62: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 28 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 28 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [76] Rnd 63: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [72] Rnd 64: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 12 times [60] Rnd 65: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 66: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Stuff the head and the body firmly. Continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 67: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 68: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 69: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 70: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 71: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 72: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 73: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. FOOT (start in aqua blue) Leave a long starting yarn tail. Ch 80. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1: sc in all 80 st [80] Rnd 2: inc in all 80 st [160] Rnd 3: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 20 times [180] Change to pale pink yarn. Rnd 4: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat 15 times [195] Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 5: (sc in next 12 st, inc in next st) repeat 15 times [210] Rnd 6: ch 1, crab stitch in all 210 st [210] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Pin the foot all around the snail body (as if you were putting on a skirt), over rounds 60 and 63 and sew it on with the aqua blue starting yarn tail. Note: It’s not going to be a straight line. Do take into account that the foot is going to help the snail stand up. SHELL Note: I use the jacquard crochet technique for the shell. Alternatively, you can also use the tapestry technique. If you are not confident using these techniques, you can choose to crochet the shell in one color or in a horizontal stripe pattern. Note: The shell is made with two parts that are sewn together. 149 SHELL PART 1 (start in yellow yarn) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Continue working with alternating yarns (yellow and pale pink). Work the second stitch in each increase in pale pink yarn. You will have 8 pale pink lines. Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [24] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [32] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [40] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [48] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [56] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [64] Continue in pale pink yarn. Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [72] Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 10: BLO sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 11 – 15: sc in all 72 st [72] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. SHELL PART 2 (start in yellow yarn) Rnd 1 – 9: repeat the pattern for the first shell part. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. SMALL CENTER BUTTON (make 2, in yellow yarn) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. ASSEMBLY OF THE SHELL Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail of the second shell part, sew both parts together using Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 the whip stitch. Insert the needle underneath both loops of the first shell part (the yellow stitches) and the back loop only of the second shell part (the pale pink stitches). We are going to use the leftover front loops on the second shell part for an extra round of slst. Stuff the shell before closing the seam. Do not overstuff, we want the shell to be fluffy and flat like a cushion. Rejoin the pale pink yarn in a leftover front loop of round 9 of the first shell part, slst in all 72 st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Repeat on the other side, in the leftover front loops of your whip stitch seam. Sew the button to the center of the first part. Pass the needle through to the other side to pull the button slightly inwards. Repeat with the second button on the other shell part. Sew the shell centered to the back, over round 55. 150 151 Angelica is a blue whale, and if you missed the fact, the largest known animal to have ever lived. Yes, larger than dinosaurs. Please, don’t tell Eduardo Cutesaurus, he thinks he’s the largest. Luckily Angelica doesn’t care about numbers at all. Angelica is a speech therapist. She helps clients to improve their communication when they have difficulty speaking up, listening or finding the right words to vent their hearts. Despite the fact that they live in different worlds, one of her dearest friends is Greta Hen. And Greta insisted on crocheting her a present. Probably centimeters and meters were swapped at some point in the conversation... miscommunication happens even to a speech therapist. But Angelica doesn't care about the small size of her crocheted hat, which she wears with pride! GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4117 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 19 inches / 48 cm long when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · petrol blue (about 150 g in total) · off-white · pastel pink · cream – Fingering or light sport weight yarn in · pastel pink · off-white – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size B-1 / 2 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), working around a foundation chain (page 34), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), changing color mid-round (page 35), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) Note: Use a size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook, unless otherwise noted. Note: Alike all my toys, this design was made using the Xshaped single crochet stitch. If you use V-shaped stitches, the line between color changes will start to turn. A perfectly straight line is impossible, as even X-shaped stitches make your line turn at some point. So don’t worry too much about it. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 HEAD AND BODY (start in petrol blue) Ch 8. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 6 st [16] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st [22] Continue working with alternating yarns (petrol blue and offwhite). The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 3: (petrol blue) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [26] Rnd 4: (petrol blue) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st [26] Rnd 5: (petrol blue) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times, sc in next 2 st, (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [34] Rnd 6 – 7: (petrol blue) sc in next 18 st, (off-white) sc in next 16 st [34] Rnd 8: (petrol blue) sc in next 18 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 6 st [38] 152 153 Rnd 9 – 10: (petrol blue) sc in next 18 st, (offwhite) sc in next 20 st [38] Rnd 11: (petrol blue) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 14 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, (offwhite) sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [44] Rnd 12 – 14: (petrol blue) sc in next 20 st, (offwhite) sc in next 24 st [44] Rnd 15: (petrol blue) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 16 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, (offwhite) sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st [50] Rnd 16 – 18: (petrol blue) sc in next 22 st, (offwhite) sc in next 28 st [50] Rnd 19: (petrol blue) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 18 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, (offwhite) sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st [56] Rnd 20 – 22: (petrol blue) sc in next 24 st, (offwhite) sc in next 32 st [56] Rnd 23: (petrol blue) sc in next 24 st, (off-white) sc in next 28 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 4 st [56] Rnd 24: (petrol blue) sc in next 28 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 5 st [60] Rnd 25: (petrol blue) sc in next 29 st, (off-white) sc in next 25 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 6 st [60] Rnd 26: (petrol blue) sc in next 30 st, (off-white) sc in next 23 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 7 st [60] Rnd 27: (petrol blue) sc in next 31 st, (off-white) sc in next 21 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st [60] Rnd 28 – 58: (petrol blue) sc in next 32 st, (off-white) sc in next 20 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st [60] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 29 and 30, about 4 stitches from the off-white patch. Embroider the cheeks below the eyes with pastel pink yarn. Stuff the head and continue stuffing as you go. Rnd 59: (petrol blue) sc in next 32 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next st, dec, sc in next 4 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st [56] Rnd 60: (petrol blue) sc in next 32 st, (off-white) sc in next 16 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st [56] Rnd 61: (petrol blue) sc in next 32 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st [54] Rnd 62: (petrol blue) sc in next 32 st, (off-white) sc in next 14 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st [54] Rnd 63: (petrol blue) sc in next 32 st, (off-white) sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 3 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 8 st [52] Rnd 64: (petrol blue) sc in next 29 st, dec, sc in next st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (petrol blue) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 5 st [50] Rnd 65: (petrol blue) sc in next 31 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 4 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 7 st [48] Rnd 66: (petrol blue) sc in next 28 st, dec, sc in next st, (offwhite) sc in next 10 st, (petrol blue) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 4 st [46] Rnd 67: (petrol blue) sc in next 30 st, (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 6 st [44] Rnd 68: (petrol blue) sc in next 27 st, dec, sc in next st, (offwhite) sc in next 8 st, (petrol blue) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 3 st [42] Rnd 69: (petrol blue) sc in next 29 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (petrol blue) sc in next 5 st [40] Rnd 70: (petrol blue) sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next st, (offwhite) sc in next 6 st, (petrol blue) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st [38] Rnd 71: (petrol blue) sc in next 28 st, (off-white) sc in next st, dec 2 times, sc in next st, (petrol blue) sc in next 4 st [36] Rnd 72: (petrol blue) sc in next 25 st, dec, sc in next st, (offwhite) sc in next 4 st, (petrol blue) sc in next st, dec, sc in next st [34] Rnd 73: (petrol blue) sc in next 27 st, (off-white) dec 2 times, (petrol blue) sc in next 3 st [32] Continue in petrol blue yarn. Rnd 74: sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec [30] Rnd 75: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 76: sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 4 st [29] Rnd 77: dec, sc in next 27 st [28] Rnd 78: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 79: sc in next 24 st, dec 2 times [26] Rnd 80: sc in next 26 st [26] Rnd 81: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 18 st, dec, sc in next Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 154 2 st [24] Rnd 82: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 83: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 18 st, dec, sc in next st [22] Rnd 84: sc in all 22 st [22] Rnd 85: dec, sc in next 18 st, dec [20] Rnd 86: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 87: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 14 st, dec, sc in next st [18] Rnd 88 – 89: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 90: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 91: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. VENTRAL PLEATS (in off-white) Note: The ventral pleats are optional, if you prefer your whale without them, you can leave them out. The first ventral pleat will be positioned at 3 or 4 stitches from the petrol blue top of the snout. Insert the hook between rounds 2 and 3, and pull up a loop of off-white yarn. Make a surface slst. Then, insert the hook in the next stitch, between rounds 3 and 4 of the belly, draw up a loop and make a surface slst. Continue making surface slst until you reach the petrol blue edge at the end of the whale body. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Make another 6 ventral pleats in the same way. TAIL (in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: inc in all 10 st [20] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [30] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [40] Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [50] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [60] Rnd 8: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [70] Rnd 9: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [80] Rnd 10: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [90] Rnd 11: sc in all 90 st [90] 155 Do not fasten off. Fold the tail closed. Flatten the tail and work the next round through both layers to close. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Rnd 12: slst in all 45 st [45] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Sew the tail over rounds 89 to 91. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 FLIPPERS (make 2, in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [7] Rnd 4: sc in all 7 st [7] Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [8] Rnd 6: sc in all 8 st [8] Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [9] Rnd 8: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 9: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st [11] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 11 st [11] Rnd 12: sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [13] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 13 st [13] Rnd 15: sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st [15] Note: In the next rounds we add the bobbles on the flippers. These don’t have a fixed position. Cro- 156 Rnd 2: ((cream) sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, (pastel pink) sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [56] Rnd 3: ((cream) sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, (pastel pink) sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [64] Rnd 4: ((cream) sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, (pastel pink) sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [72] Rnd 5: ((cream) sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, (pastel pink) sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [80] Rnd 6 – 15: ((cream) sc in next 10 st, (pastel pink) sc in next 10 st) repeat 4 times [80] Rnd 16: ((cream) dec, sc in next 8 st, (pastel pink) dec, sc in next 8 st) repeat 4 times [72] Rnd 17: ((cream) dec, sc in next 7 st, (pastel pink) dec, sc in next 7 st) repeat 4 times [64] Rnd 18: ((cream) dec, sc in next 6 st, (pastel pink) dec, sc in next 6 st) repeat 4 times [56] Rnd 19: ((cream) dec, sc in next 5 st, (pastel pink) dec, sc in next 5 st) repeat 4 times [48] Rnd 20: ((cream) dec, sc in next 4 st, (pastel pink) dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 4 times [40] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew round 20 to round 1 to make a ring. Stuff as you go. chet a bobble in every few rounds, positioning them a few stitches apart on the right side of the flipper. Rnd 16 – 32: sc in all 15 st, fitfully making a 5-dcbobble st on the right side of the flipper [15] Rnd 33 – 34: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The flippers do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and sew the flippers to both sides between rounds 34 and 41, right next to the off-white belly. LIFEBUOY (start in cream) Ch 40. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in spiral, alternating cream and pastel pink yarn. The color you work with is indicated before each part. Rnd 1: ((cream) sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, (pastel pink) sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [48] MINI HAT (with fingering weight yarn, using a B-1 / 2 mm crochet hook, in pastel pink) Repeat the pattern for Alberto Seagull’s hat on page 128. FAKE POMPON OR MINI BALL (with fingering weight yarn, using a B-1 / 2 mm crochet hook, start in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Change to cream yarn. Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating pastel pink and off-white yarn. Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 7: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Stuff lightly. Rnd 8: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the pompon to the top of the hat. 157 If you look for the word “joy” in the dictionary, you'll likely come across Roberto's photo. He typically has a smile drawn on his face and walks through life giving a paw to everyone who needs it. He is the best at listening and has the beautiful talent to find a silver lining in any situation. And he loves Italian food. So, it’s no surprise that he chose to work in a lovely ‘minusculo’ hotel in Italy, where he receives guests with his big smile, chats with everyone he meets, helps guests tick off their bucket-list travel experiences, and gives tips on where to eat the best Italian food. We could say that the only flaw Roberto has, is his irremediable love for garlic, which could be a bit of a problem when your work is accommodating people all day long. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4118 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK Size: 8 inches / 20 cm tall and 12 inches / 30 cm long when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · mustard yellow · black · off-white · teal green – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black oval safety eyes (12 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), dividing the body in four parts (explained in pattern), backstitch (page 38), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) Note: The head, body and legs are worked in one piece. HEAD (start in black) Start with the nose. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to mustard yellow yarn. Note: When fastening off the black yarn, you can leave a long yarn tail to embroider the mouth later on. Rnd 7: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 8 – 11: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 12: sc in next 8 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st [20] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 15: sc in next 9 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st [22] Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 22 st [22] Rnd 18: sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st [24] Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 21: sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 158 sc in next st) repeat 5 times, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [30] Rnd 22: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 23: sc in next 8 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 5 times, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [36] Rnd 24: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 25: sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 5 times, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [42] Rnd 26 – 27: sc in all 42 st [42] Embroider the mouth with black yarn: make 15 vertical backstitches over rounds 7 to 21 and 10 horizonal backstitches between rounds 21 and 22. Stuff the nose. Rnd 28: sc in next 10 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 5 times, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [48] Rnd 29 – 35: sc in all 48 st [48] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 26 and 27, with an interspace of about 20 stitches at the top. Rnd 36: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 37: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 38: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 39: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 40: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Stuff the head firmly. Rnd 41: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 42: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 43: dec 6 times [6] 159 Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. BODY (start in mustard yellow) Start with the neck. Leave a long starting yarn tail. Ch 20. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the first chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue work- Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 ing in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 20 st [20] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating off-white and teal green yarn. Rnd 3: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [24] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 6: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [28] Rnd 7 – 9: sc in all 28 st [28] Change to mustard yellow yarn. Rnd 10: ch 31. (Place a stitch marker in the next st you make – the first you will make on the foundation chain, this will mark the beginning of the next rounds.) Crochet back on the chain, inc in second ch from the hook, sc in next 29 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the neck and BLO sc in next 28 st, continue on the other side of the chain and sc in next 30 st [90] Rnd 11: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 87 st, inc in next st [92] Rnd 12: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 88 st, inc in next st [94] Rnd 13: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 89 st, inc in next st [96] Rnd 14 – 20: sc in all 96 st [96] Do not fasten off. LEGS We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST BACK LEG First, find the middle back stitch of the body. If you are not there yet, continue crocheting until that point. Then, sc in next st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Sc in next 9 st, ch 7. Join the last ch to the stitch with the stitch marker by working a slst. Continue working the first back leg: Rnd 1: sc in next 9 st on the body, sc in next 7 ch [16] Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 4: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 5: sc in all 14 st [14] Rnd 6: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times [12] 160 161 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Rnd 7: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 8: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. FIRST FRONT LEG Count 27 stitches along from the first back leg (this will become the belly) and pull up a loop of mustard yellow yarn in the 28th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 8 st, ch 7 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 8: repeat rounds 1-8 of the first back leg. 162 SECOND FRONT LEG Count 3 st to the left of the first front leg (this is the space between the legs) and pull up a loop of mustard yellow yarn in the 4th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 8 st, ch 7 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 8: repeat rounds 1-8 of the first back leg. SECOND BACK LEG Count 27 st to the left of the second front leg (this is the other side of the belly) and pull up a loop of mustard yellow yarn in the 28th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 8 st, ch 7 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 8: repeat rounds 1-8 of the first back leg. stuffing to the base of the neck before sewing the head on. Note: You may notice that my dog's neck seems to have only one round in mustard yellow yarn before the stripe pattern, instead of two. I used the first round to sew the head to the body more firmly. BELLY Between the legs you now have 27-stitch-spaces along the sides and 3-stitch-spaces at the front and back. We make the belly by crocheting flaps on these stitches. Start with the 27 stitch spaces along the side. Pull up a loop of mustard yellow yarn in the first stitch next to the first leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 10: sc in next 27 st, ch 1, turn [27] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. EARS FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS For the back flap, pull up a loop of mustard yellow yarn in the first stitch next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 4: sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn [3] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap between the front legs in the same way. ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Using a tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front legs and the back flap to both back legs. Stuff each leg firmly. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide belly flap to the opposite side of the dog’s belly. Then sew the belly flap to both legs and the flaps between them, stuffing the body as you go. Sew the head to the body. If necessary, add more (make 2, in black) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 6 – 8: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 9: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 4 times [20] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 12: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 4 times [16] Rnd 13 – 18: sc in all 16 st [16] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears and sew them to rounds 29 to 36 of the head. TAIL (in black) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring st [5] Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 10 and 11. 163 Amelia needs to know how things work. And for that she spends hours (re)assembling whatever objects she finds. She doesn't always manage to put things back together though, but she definitely tries. She wants to see everything, do everything and discover everything. But Amelia is afraid to fly and doesn’t thrive on ships either. Her career as mechanical engineer does allow her to chat with pilots and sailors (and hear all about their trips and adventures) without sailing off with those terrifying (air)ships. But since Amelia learned about the mechanisms of all those marvelous vehicles, her next goal is to find the courage to make her first forays into both forms of travel and to finally discover the world. GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4119 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK Size: 19.5 inches / 50 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (horns included) Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · light warm gray · off-white · graphite gray · pastel pink (leftover) · black · teal green – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), dividing the body in four parts (page 160), work around a foundation chain (page 34), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) Note: The head, body and legs are worked in one piece. EYE WHITES Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (make 2, in off-white) Ch 5. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 2 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 3 st [10] Rnd 2: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in last st [14] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the eye with black yarn. repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 24 st [24] Change to light warm gray yarn. Rnd 7: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 8: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [28] Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 11: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [32] Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 14: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [36] Rnd 15: sc in all 36 st [36] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and the mouth with black yarn. Stuff the snout with fiberfill. HEAD AND BODY SNOUT (start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) 164 (start in light warm gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] 165 Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7 – 20: sc in all 36 st [36] Sew the snout between rounds 6 and 18. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Note: As the snout is a bit big for the giraffe's head, you may find that sewing it on now is a little bit annoying. I prefer the result, but if you’re not having a good day, you may want to sew the snout on after you have finished and stuffed the body. Sew the eyes between rounds 11 and 17, right next to the snout. Embroider the cheeks below the eyes with pastel pink yarn. Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in graphite and 2 rounds in off-white yarn. Stuff the head and continue stuffing the neck as you go. Note: The increases have to be at the center back. If you’re not there when starting round 21, add a few more sc or undo a few. Rnd 21: inc in next st, sc in next 35 st [37] Note: To keep the color change line straight, you can make the color change above the second sc of each increase stitch. Rnd 22 – 28: sc in all 37 st [37] Rnd 29: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 35 st [38] Rnd 30 – 36: sc in all 38 st [38] Rnd 37: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 35 st [39] Rnd 38 – 44: sc in all 39 st [39] Rnd 45: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 35 st [40] Rnd 46 – 52: sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 53: sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 35 st [41] Rnd 54 – 60: sc in all 41 st [41] Change to teal green yarn. Rnd 61: sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next 35 [42] Rnd 62: sc in all 42 st [42] Change to light warm gray yarn. Rnd 63: BLO sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 64: Find the middle back stitch of the body. If you’re not there yet, continue crocheting until that point. Then, ch 12. (Place a stitch marker in the next st you make – the first you will make on the foundation chain, this will mark the beginning of the next rounds.) Crochet back on the chain, start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 11 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the body and sc in next 42 st, continue on the other side of the chain and sc in next 10 st, inc in next st [66] Rnd 65: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 28 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 28 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st [72] Rnd 66: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 68 st, inc in next 2 st [76] Rnd 67: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 69 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st [78] Rnd 68: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 31 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 32 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st [83] Rnd 69: inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 74 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st [86] Rnd 70 – 81: sc in all 86 st [86] Do not fasten off. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 LEGS We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST BACK LEG First, find the middle back stitch of the body. If you are not there yet, continue crocheting until that point. Then, sc in next 3 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Sc in next 12 st, ch 8. Join the last ch to the stitch with the stitch marker by working a slst. Continue working the first back leg: Rnd 1: sc in next 12 on the body, sc in next 8 ch [20] Rnd 2 – 16: sc in all 20 st [20] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 17 – 21: sc in all 20 st [20] Change to black yarn. Rnd 22 – 24: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 25: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 26: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 27: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remain- 166 ing stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. FIRST FRONT LEG Count 13 stitches along from the first back leg (this will become the belly) and pull up a loop of light warm gray yarn in the 14th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 11 st, ch 8 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 27: repeat rounds 1-27 of the first back leg. SECOND FRONT LEG Count 6 st to the left of the first front leg (this is the space between the legs) and pull up a loop of light warm gray yarn in the 7th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 11 st, ch 8 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 27: repeat rounds 1-27 of the first back leg. SECOND BACK LEG Count 13 st to the left of the second front leg (this is the other side of the belly) and pull up a loop of light warm gray yarn in the 14th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 11 st, ch 8 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 27: repeat rounds 1-27 of the first back leg. BELLY Between the legs you now have 13-stitch-spaces along the sides and 6-stitch-spaces at the front and back. Make the belly by crocheting flaps on these stitches. Start with the 13-stitch-space along the side. Pull up a loop of light warm gray yarn in the first stitch next to the first leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 14: sc in next 13 st, ch 1, turn. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS For the back flap, pull up a loop of light warm gray yarn in the first stitch next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 4: sc in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap between the front legs in the same way. 167 ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Using a tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front legs and the back flap to both back legs. Stuff each leg firmly with fiberfill. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide belly flap to the opposite side of the body. Then sew the belly flap to both legs and the flaps between them, stuffing the body as you go. OUTER EARS INNER EARS (make 2, in light warm gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 8 – 11: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 12: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 13 – 15: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. (make 2, start in off-white) Ch 8. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in last st. Change to black yarn and continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next st, hdc in next 2 st, dc in next 2 st, hdc in last st [16] Change to off-white yarn, fasten off the black yarn. Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) repeat 2 times [18] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the inner ear to the inside of the light warm gray ear. Flatten and fold the ears before sewing. Sew the ears between rounds 7 and 10 of the head. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 HORNS (make 2, start in black) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 8 st [8] Change to light warm gray yarn. Rnd 4 – 11: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the horns lightly. Sew them on the top of the head, above the ears, between rounds 3 and 5. 168 TAIL SPOTS (start in black) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 5 st [5] Change to light warm gray yarn. Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Sew the tail to the back, centered between rounds 66 and 67. (make 12, in black) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the spots randomly over the giraffe’s body. 169 Eduardo is a Diplodocus, but instead of having pointy spikes lining his back, he was born with a colorful mix of rounded spikes, all in different shapes and textures. He was so small and so cute that his great-aunt, the best cake maker in the world, called him "my Eduardo Cutesaurus". Together they made the most colorful textured mini cakes, just like Eduardo's spikes. Now, Eduardo is a full grown dinosaur and has been a pastry chef for years. He is the happiest dinosaur because he opened a pastry shop with his friend Cosmo Snail. And in honor of the best great-aunt to ever have walked the earth, they named the bakery "Aunt Cutie Cakes". GALLERY: Scan or visit www.amigurumi.com/4120 to share pictures and find inspiration. ILL LEVEL * SK * Size: 13.5 inches / 34 cm tall and 14.2 inches / 36 cm long when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – Worsted weight yarn in · pastel mint (about 200 g in total) · off-white · pastel pink · burnt orange · graphite gray – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Tapestry needle – Fiberfill Skills needed: magic ring (page 32), working around a foundation chain (page 34), changing color at the beginning of a round (page 35), dividing the body in four parts (page 160), joining parts (page 39), embroidery (page 38) Note: The head, body and legs are worked in one piece. HEAD AND BODY Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 (in pastel mint) Ch 9. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 6 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 7 st [18] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next st [24] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st [30] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 8 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st [38] Rnd 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 12 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 12 st [44] Rnd 6: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 13 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 13 st [50] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 10 times [60] Rnd 8 – 16: sc in all 60 st [60] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, with and interspace of about 35 stitches at the front. Embroider the cheeks with pastel pink yarn. Note: The decreases in rounds 17-21 have to be aligned with the front of the dinosaur's head. If necessary, add or undo a few sc to make sure you get the shape right. Rnd 17: sc in next 24 st, (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 5 times, dec, sc in next 9 st [54] 170 171 Rnd 18: sc in next 23 st, (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 5 times, dec, sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 19: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 20: sc in next 19 st, (dec, sc in next st) repeat 5 times, dec, sc in next 6 st [36] Rnd 21: sc in next 16 st, (dec, sc in next st) repeat 5 times, dec, sc in next 3 st [30] Rnd 22: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 23: sc in next 15 st, dec, sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [22] Rnd 24: sc in all 22 st [22] Stuff the head and continue stuffing the neck as you go. Rnd 25: sc in next 15 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [24] Rnd 26 – 28: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 29: sc in next 16 st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [26] Rnd 30 – 32: sc in all 26 st [26] Rnd 33: sc in next 17 st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [28] Rnd 34 – 36: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 37: sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [32] Rnd 38 – 40: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 41: sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [36] Rnd 42 – 46: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 47: Find the middle back of the body. If you’re not there yet, continue crocheting until that point (I had to crochet 11 sc to get there). Then, ch 15. (Place a stitch marker in the next st you make – the first you will make on the foundation chain, this will mark the beginning of the next rounds.) Crochet back on the chain, inc in second ch from the hook, sc in next 13 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the body and sc in next 12 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, inc in next st, sc in next 13 st, continue on the other side of the chain and sc in next 14 st [68] Rnd 48: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 65 st, inc in next st [71] Rnd 49: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 66 st, inc in next st [74] Rnd 50: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 27 st, inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, sc in next 28 st, inc in next st [79] Rnd 51: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 70 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [82] Rnd 52: sc in next st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 72 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [86] Rnd 53 – 68: sc in all 86 st [86] Do not fasten off. LEGS Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST BACK LEG First, find the middle back stitch of the body. If you are not there yet, continue crocheting until that point. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Sc in next 13 st, ch 8. Join the last ch to the stitch with the stitch marker by working a slst. Continue working the first back leg: Rnd 1: sc in next 13 st on the body, sc in next 8 ch [21] Rnd 2 – 12: sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 13: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 7 times [14] Rnd 14: dec 7 times [7] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. FIRST FRONT LEG Count 13 stitches along from the first back leg (this will 172 become the belly) and pull up a loop of pastel mint yarn in the 14th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 14: repeat rounds 1-14 of the first back leg. SECOND FRONT LEG Count 4 st to the left of the first front leg (this is the space between the legs) and pull up a loop of pastel mint yarn in the 5th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 14: repeat rounds 1-14 of the first back leg. SECOND BACK LEG Count 13 st to the left of the second front leg (this is the other side of the belly) and pull up a loop of pastel mint yarn in the 14th stitch. Sc in this st, sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch to the first sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 14: repeat rounds 1-14 of the first back leg. between the front legs in the same way. ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Using a tapestry needle, sew the front flap to both front legs and the back flap to both back legs. Stuff each leg firmly with fiberfill. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide belly flap to the opposite side of the body. Then sew the belly flap to both legs and the flaps between them, stuffing the body as you go. TAIL BELLY Between the legs you have 13-stitch-spaces along the sides and 4-stitch-spaces at the front and back. We make the belly by crocheting flaps on these stitches. Start with the 13-stitch-space along the side. Pull up a loop of pastel mint yarn in the first stitch next to the first leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 12: sc in next 13 st, ch 1, turn [13] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (in pastel mint) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 15: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS For the back flap, pull up a loop of pastel mint yarn in the first stitch next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 4: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [4] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the flap 173 Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 22 – 23: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 24: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 25 – 26: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 27: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [33] Rnd 28 – 29: sc in all 33 st [33] Rnd 30: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [36] Rnd 31 – 32: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 33: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [39] Rnd 34 – 35: sc in all 39 st [39] Rnd 36: (sc in next 12 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [42] Rnd 37 – 38: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 39: (sc in next 13 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [45] Rnd 40 – 41: sc in all 45 st [45] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with fiberfill. Sew the tail centered to the dino's back. SPIKES EXTRA SMALL (make 5: 1 in pastel pink, 1 in pale pink, 1 graphite and off-white striped and 2 in burnt orange) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 8 st [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. SMALL (make 6, 1 graphite and off-white striped, 1 in pale pink, 1 in burnt orange and 3 in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. MEDIUM (make 3, 1 in burnt orange and 2 in pale pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. LARGE (make 2, 1 in burnt orange and 1 in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16] Rnd 3 – 8: sc in all 16 st [16] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 EXTRA LARGE (make 1, start in graphite) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Change to off-white. Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating graphite and off-white yarn. Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 10: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. ASSEMBLY OF THE SPIKES Position the spikes on the Cutesaurus' back. The Extra large and large spikes are positioned next to the neck, followed by a mix of medium and small spikes and finally position the extra small spikes at the end of the tail. Sew them on, using the yarn tails. 174 175 Vi Le/vilethao@gmail.com/2022-11-30 5:20 Thanks to those who help me keep going and care about me, even though I can be a little quirky at times…well, most of the time. I love you. Live long and prosper.
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/p/create-a-cute-sally-succulent-with-this-crochet-pattern-pdf


en - English Sally Succulent PDF crochet pattern Designer Tatyana Pogosova @mrs.crowlet ATTENTION © All rights reserved. Crochet pattern belongs to Tatyana Pogosova @mrs.crowlet. This pattern is intended for personal use ONLY. It is PROHIBITED to distribute the pattern or post it on the Internet. You can sell the finished product. I would be grateful if you indicate my name when posting on social networks. Respect other people's work and remember - All rights reserved. @mrs.crowlet DESIGNER HI! My name is Tanya Pogosova. I am an amigurumi designer and a dollmaker. Thank you for trusting me and purchasing this pattern. I'm sure you will succeed! If you encounter any difficulties or find an error in the pattern, don't hesitate to contact me! I hope you will enjoy creating this cute creepy Sally Succulent! @MRS.CROWLET MRS.CROWLET@GMAIL.COM CONTENTS 1 ABBREVIATIONS 1 MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES 2 SIZE OF THE TOY 3 READ ME 4 EYES 5 TOP (SOIL) 5 HAIR 7 LEAVES 7 LIPS 8 BASE 10 ASSEMBLING @mrs.crowlet ABBREVIATIONS MR - magic ring Note: sc ( ) - single crochet All parts are worked in hdc ( ) - half double crochet continuous spirals (without slip dc ( ) - double crochet slitch and ch), unless noted ch ( ) - chain otherwise. sl st ( ) - slip stitch To keep track of the rounds inc ( ) - increase use a stitch marker. dec ( ) - decrease FLO - front loops only BLO - back loops only (...)n - repeat the combination of stitches in parentheses "n" times p. - photo MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES 1. Yarn - YarnArt Jeans (50g/160m, 55% cotton 45% polyacrylic) Colors: light blue - #75 dark blue - #17 brown - #40 black - #53 (a few meters) Alize Cotton Gold (100g/330m, 55% cotton 45% polyacrylic) Colors: white - #55 terracotta - #36 2. Crochet hook suitable for your yarn (I used 1,75mm) 3. Safety eyes (I used 6 mm, if you use a different yarn, you will need to choose the size yourself) 4. Scissors, tapestry needle, pins 5. Stitch marker (I use a piece of yarn) 6. Fiberfill (stuffing) 7. Stuffing tool (I use wooden skewers) 8. A piece of plastic, to make the bottom steady (I use a lid of a plastic container) 9. All-purpose glue (I use UHU) @mrs.crowlet 1 SIZE OF THE TOY If you use the material and crochet hook indicated in the pattern, the toy will be approximately 10cm (3.9 inches) tall. Testing result Crochet hook: 1.5 mm Yarn: 8/4 cotton (super fine weight) Size: 8.9cm/3.5 inches tall @mrs.crowlet 2 READ ME Decreases 1 In order to make an invisible decrease, insert the hook only under the FRONT loop of one stitch, then under the FRONT loop of the second stitch (p.1,2), yarn over and pull through these two front loops (p.3), yarn over and pull through two loops left on the hook (p.4). 2 3 4 Color change Always perform the color change on the second half of the previous stitch. When you make the last stitch of the previous color: insert the hook, yarn over, pull through (p.5), pick the new color, yarn over (p.6), pull through both loops on the hook (p.7). 5 6 7 @mrs.crowlet 3 EYES (make 2) Work with white yarn. Ch 4, turn, work from the 2nd ch from hook (p.8): 1. 2 sc, 3 sc into the last ch, continue on the other side of the chain, 1 sc, inc (8) Continue working in spirals starting from the 1st stitch of the previous row (p.9) 2. inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc into one stitch, inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc into one stitch (16) 3. 5 sc, inc, 3 sc into one stitch, inc, 5 sc, inc, in one stitch: (sc, hdc, sc (p.10)), inc (24) (p.11) Cut the yarn off leaving a tail 20-30 cm to weave in the end and sew the eyes on the base. Use the "straight edge" method to weave in the end. Skip one stitch and insert the needle into the 2nd one (p.12), pull it out. Insert the needle into the last stitch of the row (between the front and the back loop of the stitch) (p.13). Pull the needle out, and tighten the thread (p.14). Do not cut the yarn off. Insert safety eyes into the 1st row of the whites of the eye (p.15-16). Do not lock the washer. 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 @mrs.crowlet 4 TOP (SOIL) Start working with the middle part of succulent flower. Work with terracotta yarn. 1. 6 sc in a MR 2. 6 sc (6) 3. (inc, 1 sc) 3 (9) 4. (inc, 2 sc) * 3 (12) 5. 12 (12) 6. (inc, 3 sc) * 3 (15) 7. (inc, 4 sc) * 3 (18) 8. 18 sc (18) 17 18 19 20 Change the color of yarn to brown (fasten off the terracotta yarn). 9. FLO (p.18) (inc, 2 sc) * 6 (24) 10. (inc, 3 sc) * 6 (30) 11. (inc, 4 sc) * 6 (36) 12. (inc, 5 sc) * 6 (42) 13. (inc, 6 sc) * 6 (48) 14. (inc, 7 sc) * 6 (54) 15. (inc, 8 sc) * 6 (60) (p.19,20) Cut the yarn off leaving a tail about 50 cm for sewing. HAIR Work with terracotta yarn. Hair will be worked in rows with a turning chain. Turning chain does not count as a stitch. While working in rows, make regular decreases instead of invisible ones: pull a loop through one stitch, pull a loop through the next stitch (p.21), yarn over, pull through 3 loops on the hook (p.22). Ch 53, turn, work from the 2nd ch from hook: 1-9. (9 rows) 52 sc, ch, turn (52) 10. dec, 48 sc, dec, ch, turn (50) 11. 50 sc, ch, turn (50) 12. 3 sc in 1 stitch, 48 sc, 3 sc in 1 stitch, ch, turn (54) 13. 54 sc (54) 14. 3 sc in 1 stitch, 52 sc, 3 sc in 1 stitch, ch, turn (58) 15. (13 sc, dec) * 3, 13 sc, ch, turn (55) 21 22 @mrs.crowlet 5 16. 3 sc in 1 stitch, 53 sc, 3 sc in 1 stitch, ch, turn (59) 17. 3 sc in 1 stitch, 57 sc, 3 sc in 1 stitch, ch, turn (63) 18. inc, 61 sc, inc (mark the 1st and the 33rd stitch of this row (p.23)) (65) 23 Continue to crochet around (p.24): 17 sc along the side part (p.25,26), 3 sc into a corner (the 1st stitch of the bottom side) (p.27), 50 sc along the bottom side, 3 sc into a corner (the last stitch of the bottom side) (p.28), 17 sc along the side part (p.29) Cut the yarn off leaving a tail of about 50 cm to weave in the end and sew the hair on the base. Use the "straight edge" method to weave in the end, but in this case do not skip any stitches, insert the needle into the 1st stitch of the row (p.30), pull it out, insert it into the last stitch of the row (between the front and the back loops) (p.31). Pull the needle out, and tighten the thread (p.32). Do not cut the yarn off. 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 @mrs.crowlet 6 LEAVES Work with terracotta yarn. We will have 2 sizes of leaves. Small leaves (make 3): 33 34 35 36 1. 6 sc in a MR 2. 6 sc (6) 3. (inc, 1 sc) * 3 (9) 4. (inc, 2 sc) * 3 (12) 5. (inc, 1 sc) * 6 (18) 6-8. (3 rows) 18 sc (18) Flatten the leaf, crochet 9 sc through both sides (p.33). Cut the yarn off leaving a tail about 20-30 cm for sewing. Large leaves (make 3): 1. 6 sc in a MR 2. 6 sc (6) 3. (inc, 1 sc) * 3 (9) 4. (inc, 2 sc) * 3 (12) 5. (inc, 1 sc) * 6 (18) 6. (inc, 2 sc) * 6 (24) 7-10. (4 rows) 24 sc (24) Flatten the leaf, crochet 12 sc through both sides (p.33). Cut the yarn off leaving a tail about 20-30 cm for sewing. LIPS Work with terracotta yarn. Ch 4, turn, work from the 2nd ch from hook (p.37): 1. In one stitch: (1 sc, 1 hdc), sl st, in one stitch: (1 hdc, 1 sc), ch 1, continue on the other side of the chain, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc (8) Cut the yarn off leaving a tail 20-30 cm for sewing, and weave in the end using "straight edge" method. 37 38 39 @mrs.crowlet 7 BASE Work with light blue yarn 40 1. 6 sc in a MR (6) 2. 6 inc (12) 3. (inc, 1 sc) * 6 (18) 4. (inc, 2 sc) * 6 (24) 5. (inc, 3 sc) * 6 (30) 6. 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) * 5, inc, 2 sc (36) 7. (inc, 5 sc) * 6 (42) 8. 3 sc, (inc, 6 sc) * 5, inc, 3 sc (48) 9. (inc, 7 sc) * 6 (54) 10. 4 sc, (inc, 8 sc) * 5, inc, 4 sc (60) 11. BLO (p.40) 60 sc (60) 12. (inc, 9 sc) * 6 (66) 13. 66 sc (66) 14. 5 sc, (inc, 10 sc) 5, inc, 5 sc (72) 15. 72 sc (72) 16. (inc, 11 sc) 6 (78) 17-21. (5 rows) 78 sc (78) 41 Cut out a piece of plastic to fit the bottom (it will help to make the base steady) and put it inside the base (as shown in the p.41,42). * If your plastic is too flexible, cut out 2 or 3 pieces and put them together. 42 22. (dec, 11 sc) * 6 (72) 23-25. (3 rows) 72 sc (72) 26. 5 sc, (dec, 10 sc) * 5, dec, 5 sc (66) 27-29. (3 rows) 66 sc (66) (p.43) Change the color of yarn to terracotta (fasten off the blue yarn) (p.44). In the next row we will attach the hair. Crochet through two pieces: at first insert your hook into a stitch on the hair, then into a stitch on the head (p.45) and make a sc. Start from the marked 33rd stitch of the hair. 43 44 45 @mrs.crowlet 8 30. 33 sc through 2 pieces (p.46), 1 sc on the head, continue working through 2 pieces starting from the marked 1st stitch of the hair: 32 sc (p.47), at this point the head might be wobbly (p.48), but it is ok, it will straighten up at the end of the next row (p.49) (66) 31. FLO 66 sc (p.50), we will use the back loops to sew on the top (66) 32. 66 sc (66) Cut the yarn off leaving a tail 15-20 cm and weave in the end using the "straight edge" method (p.51). 46 47 48 49 50 51 To make it easier to insert the eyes, first make holes for them. I use a wooden skewer, insert it between the stitches and widen the hole. You can also use tweezers or blunt-end scissors (you do not want to damage the stitches). The eyes should be between the 21st and 22nd rows of the head with a distance of 7-8 stitches (p.52). If the pin of your safety eyes is long enough to go through the white of the eye and the base and still can be locked by the washer, install the safety eyes (p.53). If it is a little bit shorter, try to lock the washer as shown in the p.54. If pin is not so long for the washer to lock, do not worry, we will glue them on later. 52 53 54 @mrs.crowlet 9 ASSEMBLING 55 Sew the top to the inner side of the pot (p.55). As we have 66 back loops left on the inner side of the pot and 60 loops in the last row of the top, we will skip each 11th loop of the pot, so make 10 stitches, skip 1 loop on the pot (p.56), and make again 10 stitches. Continue this way till the end of the row. When you have a small hole left, stuff the head very firmly (p.57). Finish sewing, fasten off, and weave in the end (p.58). 56 57 58 If the pin of your safety eyes is short, glue the eye to the white piece (I apply glue with a needle to be neat) (p.40), apply glue on the pin, insert the eye into the hole and push hard. Repeat with the second eye. Pin the whites of the eye (p.60) and sew them around using an invisible stitch: grab a stitch on the head (p.61), insert the needle into a stitch on the eye (p.62), insert it back into the next stitch on the eye (p.62). Weave in the ends (p.64). Scan this QR code or click on it to watch the video "how make an invisible stitch" 59 60 61 62 63 64 @mrs.crowlet 10 Pull the hair down and pin the bottom row on the 11th row of the head (right above the back loops). Start pinning the side parts and the middle, then add more pins (p.65-67). 65 Use the yarn tail left from crocheting the hair to sew them on. But first, embroider a few stitches to make the triangle look nice (p.68-71). Bring the needle to the bottom part of the hair (p.70). Sew the hair on using an invisible stitch (p.72-74). 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 I sew only the bottom part of the hair, if you want, you can also sew on the side parts (p.75). 75 Fasten off and weave in the end. @mrs.crowlet 11 Pin the lips between rows 12 and 15 (p.76). Sew them around using an invisible stitch. 76 Cut a piece of yarn (approximately 7 cm) and pin it to create a guideline for embroidering the seam (as shown in the p.77). You will need to use thin dark blue yarn so that the seam looks neat. I embroider with Yarn Art Jeans divided into threads (using only 1 thread out of 4). Thread a needle (you will need 50-60 cm) and embroider the mouth following this guideline using running stitch (p.78). When you reach the lips, go under them, and continue embroidering (p.79). 77 78 79 Cover the blank spaces left with vertical stitches, and make a few x stitches (p.80,81). Embroider one more seam on the cheek under the left eye and one on the forehead (p.82). 80 Use light blue yarn to embroider the nose, you will need 20-30 cm. 81 82 83 84 The nose should be between 18th and 19th rows (right under the eyes) and cover 2 sc (p.83). Make 5-6 stitches and weave in the ends (p.84). @mrs.crowlet 12 Using black yarn, embroider the eyelash lines (as shown in the p.85). Apply glue on the edge of the white of the eye (p.86), and glue on the black stitch (p.87). Repeat for the second eye. 85 Weave in the ends. Wait for the glue to dry before embroidering eyelashes (at least 30 minutes). Eyelashes should be thin and neat, so I embroider with Yarn Art Jeans divided into threads (using only 1 thread out of 4). Embroider 4 pairs of eyelashes with a distance of 2 sc between them (p.90-94). Weave in the yarn ends. 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 @mrs.crowlet 13 Pin the small leaves around the middle leaf (p.95). Sew all the leaves one by one using the yarn tail left, grabbing a stitch on the soil (p.96) and a stitch on the leaf (p.97). 95 96 97 After you sew on all the small leaves (p.98,99), continue with large leaves. Place them to cover 2 leaves of the 1st row of leaves (p.100,101). Sew all the leaves on. Weave in the ends. 98 99 100 Straighten the leaves, you can make them look up or spread them a little. 101 102 103 @mrs.crowlet 14 CONGRATULATIONS Your Sally is ready! I will be very happy to receive feedback from you. If you make a post on Instagram, please tag me @mrs.crowlet. You can find more patterns in my Etsy Shop or Ravelry Shop. Thanks again for your trust.
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/p/crochet-pattern-for-long-christmas-tree-bauble-decoration


en - English LONG CHRISTMAS TREE BAUBLE de Haakbaak ©2014 MATERIALS Schachenmayr Catania or Scheepjes Catona. These are all 100% cotton yarns. Each ball weighs 50 grams with a meterage of 125 meter. Crochet hook 2,5 mm Scissors Needle Filling STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US terms) Mr = magic ring Sl st = slip stitch Ch = chain Sc = single crochet Fl = front loop Tog = together PATTERN Row 1: crochet 6 sc in a mr = 6 sc. Row 2: 2 sc in each 2nd sc = 9 sc. Row 3: 2 sc in each 3rd sc = 12 sc. Row 4: 12 sc. Row 5: 2 sc in each 3rd sc = 16 sc. Row 6: 16 sc. Row 7: 2 sc in each 4th sc = 20 sc. Row 8: 2 sc in each 4th sc = 25 sc. Row 9: 25 sc. Row 10: 2 sc in each 5th sc = 30 sc. Row 11-13: 30 sc. Row 14: crochet each 4th and 5th sc tog = 24 sc. Row 15: 24 sc. Row 16: crochet each 3rd and 4th sc tog = 18 sc. Row 17: 18 sc. Row 18: crochet each 2nd ad 3rd sc tog = 12 sc. Stuff the bauble lightly. Fasten off and continue with light grey/silver or yellow/gold. Row 19-21: 12 sc. Stuff lightly. Row 22: crochet each 1st and 2nd sc tog in the fl = 6 sc. Row 23: 18 ch, 1 sl st in the 3rd sc of round 22. Fasten off. ©2014 de Haakbaak This pattern is intended for personal use only. Other uses such as, but not limited to, mass production and resale are strictly prohibited. © Marjolein Flick, www.haakbaak.nl
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/p/crochet-pattern-for-cute-chicken-duck-and-bunny-amigurumi


en - English . Chicken Duck bunny . Hel , m e r en ! Now I l l o w a Iw y u m bo m y he ! I would like your hobby to bring you as much joy as possible, so post your masterpieces online more often and enjoy the result of your work. However, do not forget about me either, credit me as the designer of the pattern. I would be very pleased) I would like your work to make happy not only you, but also your customers, so feel free to participate in markets and exhibitions and sell your toys) This pattern is my copyright, which took a lot of my time and effort. So please do not upload the pattern or its parts anywhere on the internet. Because it is out of respect for someone else's work that we bring up our “inner human». Designer Tetiana Lysenko @lysenkocrochet ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS): MR - magic/amigurumi ring sc - single crochet stitch (the number indicates the number of sc) dc - double crochet tc - treble crochet ch - chain stitch inc - increase = 2 stitches in one stitch dec - decrease = 2 stitches together sl st - slip stitch t – times (of repeat) Supplies : 1. Yarn Art Jeans green 29, white 01, 03, pink 20 , black 53, orange 23, yellow 88, lilac 89 2. Crochet hook 2.0 , sewing black thread 3. Toys stufﬁng (polyester, holoﬁber) 4. Scissors , large eye needle for sewing pieces 1 Chicken . body 1 rnd: yellow 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (inc)6t = 12 3 rnd: (1 sc, inc)6t = 18 4 rnd: (2 sc, inc)6t = 24 5 rnd: (3 sc, inc)6t = 30 6 rnd: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc)5t, inc, 2 sc = 36 7 rnd: (5 sc, inc)6t = 42 8-9 rnds: 42 10 rnd: (6 sc, inc)6t = 48 11-12 rnds: 48 13 rnd: (7 sc, inc)6t = 54 14-15 rnds: 54 16-24 rnds: 54 25 rnd: (7 sc, dec)6t = 48 26 rnd: 3 sc, (dec, 6 sc)5t, dec, 3 sc = 42 27 rnd: (5 sc, dec)6t = 36 28 rnd: 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc)5t, dec, 2 sc = 30 29 rnd: (3 sc, dec)6t = 24 30rnd: (2 sc, dec)6t = 18 31 rnd: (1 sc, dec)6t = 12 32 rnd: (dec)6t = 6 , sew the hole. Beak 1 rnd: orange 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (1 sc, inc)3t = 9 3 rnd: (2 sc, inc)3t = 12 , leave yarn for sewing . Wings make 2 1 rnd: yellow 9 ch, work in second loop from hook : 1 sc, 1 dc , 4 tc, 1 dc, 1 sc , leave yarn for sewing. Sew between 16 and 18 rnds. 2 Hat 1 rnd: orange 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (inc)6t = 12 3 rnd: (1 sc, inc)6t = 18 4 rnd: (2 sc, inc)6t = 24 5 rnd: (3 sc, inc)6t = 30 6 rnd: 2 sc , (inc, 4 sc)5t, inc, 2 sc = 36 7 rnd: (5 sc, inc)6t = 42 8-9 rnds: 42 10 rnd: (6 sc, inc)6t = 48 11-12 rnds: 48 13 rnd: from front (inc dc)48 = 96 , close the rnd. Leaves make 3 1 rnd: green 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (inc)6t = 12 3-4 rnds: 12 5 rnd: dec, 10 sc = 11 6 rnd: dec, 9 sc = 10 7 rnd: dec, 8 sc = 9 8 rnd: dec, 7 sc = 8 , leave yarn for sewing . 3 Sew leaves on a hat Embroider eyes on 17 rnd, cheecks on 19 rnd . Sew wings on 17 rnd Embroider paws between 24 and 29 rnds. Sew a hat on head. Toy is ready! 4 Bunny . body 1 rnd: white 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (inc)6t = 12 3 rnd: (1 sc, inc)6t = 18 4 rnd: (2 sc, inc)6t = 24 5 rnd: (3 sc, inc)6t = 30 6 rnd: 2 sc , (inc, 4 sc)5t, inc, 2 sc = 36 7 rnd: (5 sc, inc)6t = 42 8-9 rnds: 42 10 rnd: (6 sc, inc)6t = 48 11-12 rnds: 48 13 rnd: (7 sc, inc)6t = 54 14-15 rnds: 54 16 rnd: orange from back loops 54 17-24 rnds: 54 25 rnd: (7 sc, dec)6t = 48 26 rnd: 3 sc, (dec, 6 sc)5t, dec, 3 sc = 42 27 rnd: (5 sc, dec)6t = 36 28 rnd: 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc)5t, dec, 2 sc = 30 29 rnd: (3 sc, dec)6t = 24 30rnd: (2 sc, dec)6t = 18 31 rnd: (1 sc, dec)6t = 12 32rnd: (dec)6t = 6 , sew the hole. Ruff 1 rnd: green (3 inc, 3 sc in one loop)13t, 2 inc , close the round. 5 Ears make 2 1 rnd: white 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (inc)6t = 12 3-4 rnds: 12 5 rnd: dec, 10 sc = 11 6 rnd: dec, 9 sc = 10 7 rnd: dec, 8 sc = 9 8 rnd: dec, 7 sc = 8 , leave yarn for sewing . Paws + tail make 5 1 rnd: white 8 sc in MR 2 rnd: 8 sc , leave yarn for sewing . Sew ears between 4-6 rnds. Sew paws between 17-19 rnds, legs between 23-25 rnds. Embroider eyes on 10 rnd . Distance between eyes = 5 sc. Toy is ready! 6 Duck . body 1 rnd: yellow 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (inc)6t = 12 3 rnd: (1 sc, inc)6t = 18 4 rnd: (2 sc, inc)6t = 24 5 rnd: (3 sc, inc)6t = 30 6 rnd: 2 sc, (inc, 4 sc)5t, inc, 2 sc = 36 7 rnd: (5 sc, inc)6t = 42 8-9 rnds: 42 10 rnd: (6 sc, inc)6t = 48 11-12 rnds: 48 13 rnd: (7 sc, inc)6t = 54 14-15 rnds: 54 16 rnd: lilac from back loops 54 17-24 rnds: 54 25 rnd: (7 sc, dec)6t = 48 26 rnd: 3 sc, (dec, 6 sc)5t, dec, 3 sc = 42 27 rnd: (5 sc, dec)6t = 36 28 rnd: 2 sc, (dec, 4 sc)5t, dec, 2 sc = 30 29 rnd: (3 sc, dec)6t = 24 30rnd: (2 sc, dec)6t = 18 31 rnd: (1 sc, dec)6t = 12 32 rnd: (dec)6t = 6, sew the hole. Ruff 1 rnd: pink (3 inc, 3 sc in one loop)13t, 2 inc , close the rnd. 7 Wings make 2 1 rnd: yellow 9 ch, work in second loop from hook: 1 sc, 1 dc, 4 tc, 1 dc, 1 sc, leave yarn for sewing. Beak 1 rnd: orange 8 ch, work in second loop from hook (3 sc in one loop, 5 sc)2t = 16 2-3rnds: 16, leave yarn for sewing . Duck feet 1 rnd: orange 6 sc in MR 2 rnd: (inc)*6t = 12 sc 3-4 rnds: 12 sc 5 rnd: fold the piece in half and crochet 6 sc , leave yarn for sewing . 8 Bow 1 rnd: lilac 13 ch, crochet in second loop from hook = 12 sc . Turn over work , 1 ch to start a new row. 2-5 rnds: 12 sc 6 rnd: crochet round the piece , a total of 38. Form a bow . Embroider eyes on 12 rnd, sew beak between 12-13 rnds. Sew wings between 17-18 rnds. Sew duck feet between 27- 29 rnds. Toy is ready! 9
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en - English 2018年 9月 17日星期一 Crochet Amigurumi Shin Chan Tutorial & Pattern
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en - English Mochila Bag! Designed by Marion Verloop Page 1 of 6 Materials" Cotton (Catania)" 2 skeins light blue (0146)" 2 skeins yellow (0208)" 2 skeins orange (0189)" 3 skeins dark blue (0124)" " Hook 2,5 mm" Stitch marker" " Abbreviations" sc" " -" st" " -" * " " -" Increase" -" " single crochet" stitch" repeat between " 2 single crochet in the next stitch" Gauge" Gauge is not important. It is important to crochet tight." " Size" 27 cm high, diameter 16 cm." " Technique" Single crochet through the back loop. " Crochet in spirals, so do not close round with slip stitch." Change colour like this: the last yarn over of a single crochet should be with the new colour." " " Designed by Marion Verloop Page 2 of 6 Bottom! The bottom will be divided in 4 colours. See picture below on the left." " Crochet 6 sc in a magic loop with orange." Start carrying the other three yarns in the next round (picture above right) and start changing colour." " 1) 2 sc in each st (12)"" In round 1 you will have 3, stitches orange, 3 stitches dark blue, " " " " " 3 stitches yellow and 3 stitches light blue." 2) 2 sc in each st (24) (picture on the right)" 3) 1 sc, increase, 2 sc, increase, 1 sc (32)" 4) 3 sc, increase* (40)" 5) 2 sc, increase, 4 sc, increase, 2 sc (48)" 6) 5 sc, increase (56)" 7) 3 sc, increase, 6 sc, increase, 3 sc (64)" 8) 7 sc, increase (72)" " Continue increasing like this until you have 160 stitches." In the next round increase 4 stitches divided evenly so you will have 164 stitches." " " " " " Side of bag" Start crocheting the chart now (see the last page). Read it from right to left. Repeat the pattern twice (next to each other)." " " Designed by Marion Verloop Page 3 of 6 Button holes! The button holes are made in the 8th round from the top (see picture below)." Button hole: 6 single crochet round the yarns you carry, skip 6 stitches." 12 sc, button hole, 6 sc, button hole, 23 sc, button hole, 6 sc, button hole, 11 sc." " " 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7" 8" " " " " " " " Last round! The last round of the chart is crocheted with crab stitch. Do not carry the yarns in this round." " Shoulder Strap" The shoulder strap is crochet flat. But you have to start crocheting on the right side every row." You can decide for yourself how long you want the shoulder strap to be. Just repeat the pattern. If one more repetition is too much, you can adjust the size by enlarging the arrows." " " Chain the number of stitches that matches the length that you want. " Start crocheting the chart (see the last page). Carry all the yarns starting from row one." At the beginning and at the end of each row, leave about 20 cm yarn tail from every colour." Remember start every row on the right side." " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " Designed by Marion Verloop Page 4 of 6 Cord" You close the bag with a cord." You can make the cord any way you like. " I used a “Kumihimo” disc with 16 strands." Information about “Kumihimo” can be found here." http://friendship-bracelets.net/tutorial.php?id=1259 Finishing! " " Finishing" Sew the loose ends." Make braids from the yarn tails on both sides of the shoulder strap." Attach the shoulder strap to your bag." Put your cord through the button holes." " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " Copyright notes: ©2014 Marion Verloop. You are welcome to hand make items from my patterns for non-commercial use. Yes, you may sell your finished creations. However, I respectfully request that you do not attempt to claim my patterns and designs as your own designs; please clearly credit all designs to Marion Verloop." " Designed by Marion Verloop Page 5 of 6 " " " Designed by Marion Verloop Page 6 of 6
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en - English Crochet Pattern MUFFIN THE DACHSHUND Designer: Natalya Zayceva @natascha.zayceva CROCHET PATTERN Muffin the Dachshund Designer: Natalya Zayceva Instagram: @natascha.zayceva This pattern is copyrighted. Any manipulations other than using the pattern for personal purposes to create a toy are FORBIDDEN. Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” Respect my work! You can use the toy made by this pattern at your discretion. When publishing photos of your work, I will be grateful, if you give a credit to the designer. Thank you for understanding! Happy crocheting! @natascha.zayceva Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” MATERIALS ABBREVIATIONS 1. Yarn I used Fingering/2ply yarn Alize Bella (50 g/180 m, 100% cotton) or Alize Sunny (100 g/400 m, 100% Comb cotton). 2. Hook I use 1.25 mm. 3. Polyester toy filling 4. Eyes Half-beads with a diameter of 5-6 mm. 5. Nose Size 96 mm for the smaller dachshund and 118 mm for the larger one. 6. Transparent glue 7. Keychain 8. Scissors, needles, markers MR - magic ring ch - chain sl st - slip stitch sc - single crochet inc - increase (2 sc in one stitch) dec - decrease (2 sc together) * - repeat NOTE To crochet this toy, you must have basic crochet skills. When crocheting, pay attention to my instructions on where increases or decreases should be located, where the parts should be, etc. If you have a shifting, move the marker of the round beginning. SIZE The length of the dog is 11-12 cm / about 4.5". Difficulty: intermediate. 2 @natascha.zayceva Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” HEAD Stuff as you go. Begin with yellow color. 1r. 6 sc in MR (6) 2r. inc6 (12) Next, work with alternating colors: black and yellow. If you work in one color, then follow the description of rounds 3-13 is on the right, the remaining rounds are crocheted in the same way. 3r. Y: 4 sc, B: 3 sc, Y: 5 sc (12) - photo 1 Pattern for a one-color dachshund: 4r. Y: 3 sc, inc, B: 3 sc, Y: inc, 3 sc, inc (15) 3r. 12 sc (12) 5r. Y: 5 sc, B: 4 sc, Y: 6 sc (15) 4r. (3 sc, inc)3 (15) 6r. Y: 4 sc, inc, B: 4 sc, Y: inc, 4 sc, inc (18) 5r. 15 sc (15) 7r. Y: 6 sc, B: 5 sc, Y: 7 sc (18) 6r. (4 sc, inc)3 (18) 8r. Y: 6 sc, B: 6 sc, Y: 6 sc (18) 7-8r. 2 rounds of 18 sc (18) 9r. Y: 5 sc, inc, B: 5 sc, inc, Y: 5 sc, inc (21) 9r. (5 sc, inc)3 (21) photo 2 10-13r. 4 rounds of 21 sc (21) 10r. Y: 4 sc, B: 13 sc, Y: 4 sc (21) 11r. Y: 2 sc, B: 17 sc, Y: 2 sc (21) - photo 3 Next rounds crochet in black color only. Cut the yellow yarn, fasten off. 12-13r. 2 rounds of 21 sc (21) 14r. 4 sc, (sc, inc)6, 5 s (27) - increases on top of the head (photo 4) 15-20r. 6 rounds of 27 sc (27) 21r. (7 sc, dec)3 (24) 22r. (2 sc, dec)6 (18) 23r. (sc, dec)6 (12) 24r. dec6 (6) Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for embroidery and needle sculpting. 3 @natascha.zayceva Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” HEAD Make a needle sculpting in round 12, between the pins 5 sc (photo 1). With the remaining thread, first pull the hole at the back to close and exit the thread through near the white pin (somewhere between increases 2-3, photo 2). Fix the thread (photo 3). Insert the needle one round below (under the yellow pin) and exit it through the opposite side under the blue pin (between increases 4-5, photo 4). Insert the needle one round above (red pin) and exit it through the other side (photo 5). Pull the thread, making small notches, fix, exit the thread through the side and do not cut it yet. Glue eyes into the holes (photo 8) and embroider the eyebrows above with 3-4 stitches using the remaining thread (photos 9-11). Embroider the whites of the eyes on the sides with white thread (photo 12). Glue a nose on the tip, close to the black stripe (photo 13). On the black dog, on the inner side of the eyebrows, embroider spots slightly diagonally with 2 short stitches (photo 15). 4 @natascha.zayceva EARS Make 2. Work in rows, starting each new row with ch1. 1r. ch4, from the second chain on the hook 3 sc (3) 2r. inc, sc, inc (5) 3r. 5 sc (5) 4r. inc, 3 sc, inc (7) 5-10r. 6 rows of 7 sc (7) 11r. dec, 3 sc, dec (5) - photo 1 12r. do not turn, work along the sides and bottom with sc (do not work along round 11), sl st in the end - photo 2 Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” Leave the yarn tail for sewing. Sew after round 4 from the end of the head first along the stitches of the last round (photos 3-6) and than under 3-4 stitches from the inner side of the ears to give the shape of drooping ears - insert the thread under both loops (photos 7-8). Between the ears on top there are about 7 sc. 5 @natascha.zayceva Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” BODY 1r. 6 sc in MR (6) 2r. inc6 (12) 3r. (sc, inc)6 (18) 4r. (2 sc, inc)6 (24) 5r. (7 sc, inc)3 (27) - photo 1 6-17r. 12 rounds of 27 sc (27) - photo 2 18r. 7 sc, (sc, dec)4, 8 sc (23) - decreases in front form the tummy 19-20r. 2 rounds of 23 sc (23) 21r. 5 sc, (sc, dec)4, 6 sc (19) 22-23r. 2 rounds of 19 sc (19) 24r. 5 sc, (sc, dec)3, 5 sc (16) 25r. 16 sc (16) 26r. 3 sc, (sc, dec)3, 4 sc (13) 27r. 13 sc (13) 28r. 2 sc, (sc, dec)3, 2 sc (10) 29r. 9 sc - I didn’t finish the round so that the yarn was on the side (focus on the tummy) - photo 3 Add fiberfill to the body, do not stuff the last 6-7 rounds. 30r. fold the edges of the part together and crochet 5 sc through both sides (5) photo 4 Leave the yarn tail for sewing. 6 @natascha.zayceva LEGS Do not stuff. With yellow color. LOWER (2 pcs.) 1r. 9 sc in MR (9) 2-3r. 2 rounds of 9 sc (9) 4r. dec, 7 sc (8) 5r. dec4 (4), sl st UPPER (2 pcs.) 1r. 7 sc in MR (7) 2-3r. 2 rounds of 7 sc (7) 4r. sc, dec3 (4), sl st Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide. With black color. ch5, with sl st attach to the top of the paw (photos 2-3), 5 sl st along the chain Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” Leave the yarn tail for sewing. One-color dog can be crocheted in the same way, but in one color. Or after the main part make ch5, attach to the body with sl st and next 5 sl st along the chain (photos 6-8). Fasten off and hide the ends. TAIL ch9, from the second chain on the hook 8 sl st - photo 9 Leave the yarn tail for sewing. 7 @natascha.zayceva ASSEMBLY Sew the upper legs on the sides after the round 18. Sew the lower legs on the sides after the round 5. Sew the tail in the back center after the round 4. On the front of the body near the legs of the black dog, embroider spots with 2 stitches, 2 sc long. Sew the body to the head after round 4 from the end. Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” Attach a keychain fastener to the crown of the head. 8 @natascha.zayceva READY! I hope you enjoyed my description and your new dachshund-keychain) Mark your work on Instagram with a hashtag #crochet_with_nz I would be grateful if you would like to share your impressions of my pattern and your photo of finished dog. If you have any questions or suggestions, please do not hesitate to contact me: Crochet pattern “Keychain Dachshund” www.instagram.com/natascha.zayceva/ www.etsy.com/shop/aNZeesCraft 9
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en - English ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Crochet pattern “Bunny Snuggler” Design by Inna Chybinova Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/inna_chi_hm/ This pattern is my own original design. PLEASE, DO NOT COPY, SHARE, TRANSLATE, MAKE VIDEO LESSONS OR DISTRIBUTE PATTERN OR ANY ITS PARTS!!!! This pattern is just for personal use. You may sell the finished items. Feel free to post and share pictures of your finished items but please credit @inna_chi_hm as the designer. This crochet pattern does not contain crochet lessons. You need to have basic crochet skills to finish the pattern! If you have any trouble following the pattern, feel free to contact me directly from the shop. Final size of the toy with the recommended materials and tools ~ 26 cm / 10.24". Use any materials and tools you like, but the final size of your toy may differ. 1 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Recommended materials and tools: Scheepjes Catona 100% mercerized cotton yarn (Soft beige) #406 50g/125m Scheepjes Catona 100% mercerized cotton yarn (Tulip) #222 50g/125m Scheepjes Catona 100% mercerized cotton yarn (Saffron) #249 10g/25m Scheepjes Catona 100% mercerized cotton yarn (Sage green) #212 10g/25m Scheepjes Catona 100% mercerized cotton yarn (Powder pink) #238 10g/25m 2.25 mm crochet hook (US B) 2.5 mm crochet hook (US C) Fiberfill for stuffing Tapestry needle and scissors Black embroidery thread Sewing pins Skill level: Beginner - intermediate Abbreviations: Rnd / Rnds = Round / Rounds st / sts = stitch / stitches ch = chain stitch sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch inc = increase (2 single crochets in one stitch) dec = invisible decrease (2 stitches together working on front loops only) hdc = half double crochet BLO = back loop only (…) = repeat between () number of times indicated […] = total number of stitches in the round or row Suggested substitute yarn: “Alize Bahar” “Alpina Anabel” “Ice Yarns Camilla Cotton” “Schachenmayr Catania” “Phildar Phil Cotton 3” “Patons Grace” “Gazzal Giza” “ Fine weight yarn. Number 2 in Standard Yarn Weight System (SPORT, BABY). I used Sport (5 ply) cotton yarn. ❖ Toy is crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, do not turn or slip stitch unless otherwise stated in the pattern! ❖ You can use a scrap of contrasting yarn instead of the stitch marker! 2 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Head: Working in rounds. Using 2.25 mm crochet hook and Scheepjes Catona (Soft beige) #406. Rnd 1. 6 sc in magic ring [6] Rnd 2. (inc) * 6 times [12] Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 times [18] Rnd 4. 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 5 times, 1 sc [24] This pattern uses sc “V” stitch Rnd 5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 times [30] Rnd 6. 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5 times, 2 sc [36] Rnd 7. (5 sc, inc) * 6 times [42] Rnd 8. 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 5 times, 3 sc [48] Rnd 9. 48 sc [48] – 1 round Rnd 10. (7 sc, inc) * 6 times [54] Rnd 11. 54 sc [54] – 1 round Rnd 12. 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) * 5 times, 4 sc [60] Rnd 13. 60 sc [60] – 1 round Rnd 14. (9 sc, inc) * 6 times [66] Rnds 15-26. 66 sc [66] – 12 rounds Rnd 27. (9 sc, dec) * 6 times [60] Rnd 28. (8 sc, dec) * 6 times [54] Rnd 29. (7 sc, dec) * 6 times [48] Rnd 30. (2 sc, dec) * 12 times [36] Rnd 31. (4 sc, dec) * 6 times [30] Stuff firmly with the filler! Rnd 32. (3 sc, dec) * 6 times [24] Rnd 33. (2 sc, dec) * 6 times [18] Rnd 34. (1 sc, dec) * 6 times [12] Rnd 35. (1 sc, dec) * 4 times [8] Fasten off and cut the thread. Using a needle or crochet hook thread the yarn tail through the front loops and pull to tighten Images 1,2. Weave in the yarn end. 1 2 3 3 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Arms (make 2): 4 Working in rounds. Using 2.25 mm crochet hook and start with Scheepjes Catona (Soft beige) #406. Rnd 1. 6 sc in magic ring [6] Rnd 2. (inc) * 6 times [12] Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 times [18] Rnd 4. (5 sc, inc) * 3 times [21] Useful Tip. Always change the Rnds 5-7. 21 sc [21] – 3 rounds Rnd 8. (5 sc, dec) * 3 times [18] Change yarn into Scheepjes Catona (Tulip) #222. Rnd 9. 18 sc [18] – 1 round Rnd 10. BLO (back loop only): (4 sc, dec) * 3 times [15] 5 color of yarn at the last step of the last stitch of the previous color 6 7 Rnd 11. 15 sc [15] – 1 round Rnd 12. (3 sc, dec) * 3 times [12] 4 Rnds 13-16. 12 sc [12] – 4 rounds Fill the arm with filler, just a half. The rest remains unstuffed. Fold the arm in half and crochet 5 sc through two layers Image 8! Fasten off and leave long thread for sewing. Attach the yarn Scheepjes Catona (Tulip) #222 into the first visible loop of Round 10 Image 9: (3 ch, slst into the next loop) * continue to crochet along all the remaining visible loops Images 10-12. Fasten off and weave in the end. 8 9 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. 10 Ears (make 2): 11 12 13 14 Working in rounds. Using 2.25 mm crochet hook and Scheepjes Catona (Soft beige) #406. Rnd 1. 6 hdc in magic ring [6] Rnd 2. (inc) * 6 times [12] Rnd 3. (1 hdc, inc) * 6 times [18] Rnd 4. 18 hdc [18] – 1 round Rnd 5. (2 hdc, inc) * 6 times [24] Rnd 6. (3 hdc, inc) * 6 times [30] Rnd 7. 30 hdc [30] – 1 round Rnd 8. (4 hdc, inc) * 6 times [36] Rnds 9-14. 36 hdc [36] – 6 rounds Rnd 15. (4 hdc, dec) * 6 times [30] Rnds 16-17. 30 hdc [30] – 2 rounds Rnd 18. (3 hdc, dec) * 6 times [24] Rnds 19-20. 24 hdc [24] – 2 rounds Rnd 21. (2 hdc, dec) * 6 times [18] Rnds 22-23. 18 hdc [18] – 2 rounds Rnd 24. (4 hdc, dec) * 3 times [15] 5 15 16 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Rnd 25. 15 hdc [15] – 1 round 17 Do NOT stuff. Fold the ear in half and crochet 7 sc through two layers. Fasten off and leave long thread for sewing. Cheeks (make 2): Working in rounds. Using 2.25 mm crochet hook and Scheepjes Catona (Tulip) #222. Rnd 1. 4 sc in magic ring [4] Rnd 2. (inc) * 4 times [8] Work a slst. Fasten off and leave long thread for sewing Image 17. Legs (make 2): 18 19 Right leg: Working in rounds. Using 2.25 mm crochet hook and start with Scheepjes Catona (Tulip) #222. Rnd 1. 6 sc in magic ring [6] Rnd 2. (inc) * 6 times [12] Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 times [18] Rnd 4. (2 sc, inc) * 6 times [24] Rnd 5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 times [30] Rnds 6-9. 30 sc [30] – 4 rounds Rnd 10. 6 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 6 times, 6 sc [24] Rnd 11. 24 sc [24] – 1 round Rnd 12. 6 sc, (dec) * 6 times, 6 sc [18] Rnd 13. 18 sc [18] – 1 round Fill the leg with filler, just a half. The rest remains unstuffed. Rnd 14. 3 sc, (dec) * 6 times, 3 sc [12] Rnds 15-17. 12 sc [12] – 3 rounds Rnd 18. (3 sc, inc) * 3 times [15] 6 Right leg Rnd 26. Work additional 1 sc and STOP! 20 Right leg ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Rnds 19-21. 15 sc [15] – 3 rounds Rnd 22. (4 sc, inc) * 3 times [18] 21 Left leg Rnds 23-25. 18 sc [18] – 3 rounds Rnd 26. 1 sc STOP HERE Image 18. Fold the leg in half and crochet 8 sc through two layers Image 19. Fasten off and cut the thread. Left leg: Crochet the same as the Right leg till the Rnd 22. Rnds 23-24. 18 sc [18] – 2 rounds Rnd 25. 10 sc STOP HERE Image 21. Fold in half and crochet through two layers 8 sc. Fasten off and cut the thread. 22 Left leg Rnd 25. Work just 10 sc and STOP! 23 24 Body: Working in continuous rounds. Using 2.5 mm crochet hook and Scheepjes Catona (Tulip) #222. Start with foundation chain. Ch 27 [27] Rnd 1. Start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 25 sc, 3 sc into the last chain, (turn the crocheting and on the other side of foundation chain) 24 sc, 2 sc into the last chain [54] Crochet in continuous spirals! Rnd 2. 1 hdc, attach the the Right Leg and crochet through both layers 8 hdc Images 23-25, 8 hdc into the next 8 stitches Image 26, attach the Left Leg and crochet through both layers 8 hdc, 29 hdc into the last 29 stitches Image 27 [54] Right leg 7 25 26 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Rnds 3-11. 54 hdc in each stitch around [54] – 9 rounds 27 28 Rnd 12. (7 hdc, dec) * 6 times [48] Rnds 13-14. 48 hdc [48] – 2 rounds Rnd 15. 3 hdc, dec, (6 hdc, dec) * 5 times, 3 hdc [42] Rnds 16-17. 42 hdc [42] – 2 rounds Rnd 18. (5 hdc, dec) * 6 times [36] Rnds 19-20. 36 hdc [36] – 2 rounds Rnd 21. 2 hdc, dec, (4 hdc, dec) * 5 times, 2 hdc [30] Rnd 22. 30 hdc [30] – 1 round Rnd 23. (3 hdc, dec) * 6 times [24] Rnd 24. 24 hdc [24] – 1 round Rnd 25. 9 hdc STOP HERE Image 29 Fold in half and crochet through two layers 11 sc. Fasten off and leave long thread for sewing. 29 31 8 30 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Pocket: 32 33 Working in rows. Using 2.25 mm crochet hook and Scheepjes Catona (Tulip) #222. Row 1. 9 chains Work in the 2nd chain from the hook: 8 sc, chain 1 and turn [8] Row 2. inc, 6 sc, inc, chain 1 and turn [10] Row 3. inc, 8 sc, inc, chain 1 and turn [12] Rows 4-6. 12 sc, chain 1 and turn [12] – 3 rows Row 7. 12 sc [12] – 1 row Do NOT cut the yarn! Crochet the pocket around with sc Images 32,33. Do NOT cut the yarn! BLO (Back Loop Only): (3 ch, slst into the next loop) * continue to crochet along the edge Images 34,35. Fasten off and leave long thread for sewing. 36 34 35 9 37 Front side! 38 Back side! These visible loops you will use foe sewing later. ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Using the yarn Scheepjes Catona (Saffron) #249 and 39 40 (Sage green) #212 embroider the carrots Images 39-45. Make an embroidery on a Front side! 41 42 43 10 44 45 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Tail: 46 47 48 49 Working in rounds. Using 2.25 mm crochet hook and Scheepjes Catona (Soft beige) #406. Rnd 1. 7 sc in magic ring [7] Rnd 2. (inc) * 7 times [14] Rnd 3. (1 sc, inc) * 7 times [21] Rnds 4-5. 21 sc [21] – 2 rounds Rnd 6. (1 sc, dec) * 7 times [14] Stuff the tail. Fasten off and leave long thread for sewing. Headband: Useful tip! Check the length of the foundation chain on the head to ensure it fits, adjust the number of chains if needed. Working in rows. Using 2.25mm crochet hook and Scheepjes Catona (Tulip) #222. Start with foundation chain. Ch 74 [74] Row 1. Start in 3rd chain from the hook: 72 hdc, 2 ch and turn [72] Rows 2-4. BLO: 72 hdc, 2 ch and turn [72] – 3 rounds Row 5. BLO: 72 hdc [72] – 1 round Fasten off and leave long thread for sewing. Fold each edge in half and join 2 ends of the headband as shown on the Image 50. Sew them. Weave in the yarn end. Turn out the headband Image 53. 50 11 51 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. 52 53 Assembling: 54 55 Using the yarn Scheepjes Catona (Powder pink) #238 embroider the muzzle between Rounds 21 and 25 (count from the head`s top). Weave in the ends Images 54-57. 56 12 57 Repeat this stitch 4-5 times ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Using 6 strands of black embroidery thread embroider 58 59 the eyes on the Round 21. Weave in the ends Images 58-62. Repeat this stitch 2 times 60 61 62 13 Using 3 strands of black embroidery thread embroider the brows 4 Rounds over the eyes. Weave in the ends. 63 64 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Sew the cheeks 1 Round lower the eyes Images 65,66. 65 66 Weave in the ends. Sew the ears placing them to the back of the head between rounds 7 and 8 Image 67. Weave in the yarn ends. 67 Back 68 7 sc 14 Front (Orienting on the face) 69 70 71 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. Sew the pocket to the Body between Rounds 4 and 9 72 73 Image 72. Make sure the right side of the Body is facing you (the side where the legs were attached). For sewing use the visible loops on the back side of the pocket Image 73. Weave in the end. 74 75 73 76 72 15 Sew the arms 5 rounds lower the head as shown on Image 77. Sew each arm in the diagonal to Round 6 (count from the top). Weave in the yarn ends inside each arm. 77 78 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. 79 80 Attach the head to the Body detail and sew it Image 81. Make sure the right side of the Body part is facing you (the side where the legs were attached). Weave in the yarn end. 81 16 Sew the tail centering it in the middle Images 82,83. Weave in the yarn end. 82 83 ©January 2025 Inna Chybinova (@inna_chi_hm). All rights reserved. YOUR TOY IS FINISHED! I hope you enjoyed while making this cute Bunny Snuggler. I will really appreciate if you leave a review in my Etsy shop about this Bunny Snuggler Crochet Pattern. Best regards, Inna @inna_chi_hm 17
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/p/crochet-your-own-small-eggs-with-this-free-pattern


en - English FREE PATTERN SMALL EGG Crochet pattern DESIGNED BY ELENA DOROGINA Facebook: Doroginatoys; Instagram: @dorogina_toys 1 I wish you a pleasant crochet. The template is my design and is intended for general use! Please share this description and enjoy crocheting! I will be glad if you specify me as the author of Instagram: dorogina_toys, Facebook: Doroginatoys. CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS (US): MG – magic ring CH – chain SC – single crochet INC – increase (make 2 sc into one loop) DEC– decrease (two sc together through front loops) (…)6 – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed (18) – the number of sc in the row THE REQUIRED MATERIALS: Yarn Alize Cotton Gold (55% cotton / 45% acrylic; 100g / 330m) • Alize Cotton Gold № 262, 67, 62, 493, 446, 458, 382 • 2.25 crochet hook • Stuffing material (fiberfill/polyester) • Needle • Scissors • Stitch markers (a scrap of contrasting yarn) You can use yarn of any manufacturer and color. When using the declared materials, the eggs are obtained in size: 3.5 – 4 cm (~1.4 - 1.6 inches) in height. Try to crochet as tightly as possible so that there are no gaps between the loops. Eggs are crocheted in a spiral without lifting loops. 2 EGG Rnd 1: 6 into MR Rnd 2: 6 inc (12) Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc)6 (18) Rnd 4: 18 sc Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc)6 (24) Rnds 6-7: 24 sc (2 rounds) Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc)6 (30) Rnds 9-13: 30 sc (5 rounds) Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec)6 (24) Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec)6 (18) Stuff with fiberfill. Rnd 16: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12) Break yarn. Stuff with fiberfill. Tighten the hole, weaving through each of the 12 front loops of the last round, and pull tight. 3
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/p/elegant-crochet-doily-pattern-with-detailed-instructions-and-material-list


en - English Doily Lucy Design by Galyna Borysova Finished size: 8” in diameter. Suggested materials: Manuela 20, 100% Cotton thread, (400 meters/50 g or 437 yards /1.76 oz. per skein) 1.25 mm hook Yardage: 200-250 yards The doily is worked in Rounds. All Rounds are worked with right side up. This pattern written in US terms. NOTES Please read through the STITCH GUIDE section before beginning. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round. 1. * to * - work all instructions from first * to second * as many times as specified. 2. ( ), [ ] or { }– work enclosed instructions as many times as specified by the number immediately following or work all enclosed instructions in the stitch or space indicated or contains explanatory remarks. 3. Joining – at the end of each round join with a slip stitch to the first stitch unless otherwise stated. 4. in next stitch - does not refer to chain stitches or chain spaces. 5. in next space – skip stitch(s) and work in next space. 6. Detailed description of stitches in bold blue (like 4FPdtr-cl) are in the box at the end of the round. 7. Remove markers after using marked stitch. Doily Lucy . All rights reserved © 2020 Galyna Borysova http://www.ravelry.com/people/GalynaBorysova Doily Lucy Design by Galyna Borysova ABBREVIATIONS: sl-st – ch(s) – hdc – sc – dc – tr – dtr – trtr – FP – BP – cl – spl – tog – sp(s) – st(s) – YO – Rnd(s) – Beg – pc – slip stitch chain(s) half double crochet(s) single crochet(s) double crochet(s) treble crochet(s) (yarn over 2x) double treble crochet(s) (yarn over 3x) triple treble crochet (yarn over 4x) front post back post cluster split (together) decrease space(s) stitch(es) yarn over Round(s) beginning (stitch) popcorn stitch STITCH GUIDE: Beginning – First stitch in a round made a little bit different from regular stitch. Beg.sc – ch 1, sc in the same stitch/chain or chain space. Beg.(dc, tr, dtr) – Beginning (double, treble or double treble crochet). Work (ch 3, ch 4, ch 5) for Beginning (dc, tr, dtr). See Fig. 1. Fig. 1 unfinished stitch – hold back the last loop of stitch on hook; you should have 2 loops on hook after first unfinished stitch and one additional loop for each of next unfinished stitch. FPsc – front post single crochet. Work as follows: insert hook from front to back around post of stitch indicated (hook is under the stitch post), YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through two loops on hook. FPdc – front post double crochet. Work as follows: YO, insert hook from front to back around post of stitch indicated (hook is under the stitch post), YO and pull up a loop, (YO and draw through two loops on hook) 2 times. Beg.FPdc - beginning FPdc . Work as follows: ch 1, FPsc around post of stitch indicated, ch 2. FPtr – front post treble crochet. Work as follows: YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of stitch indicated (hook is under the stitch post), YO and pull up a loop, (YO and draw through two loops on hook) 3 times. BPdc – back post double crochet. Work as follows: YO, insert hook from back to front around post of stitch indicated (hook is above the stitch post), YO and pull up a loop, (YO and draw through two loops on hook) 2 times. Beg.BPdc – beginning BPdc . Work as follows: ch 1, BPsc around post of stitch indicated, ch 2. 2 Doily Lucy. All rights reserved © 2020 Galyna Borysova http://www.ravelry.com/people/GalynaBorysova Doily Lucy Design by Galyna Borysova Beg.Cluster (Decrease, Popcorn or any other stitch) – replace first stitch with appropriate Beg.stitch [dc with Beg.dc; tr with Beg.tr and so on], next by description of Cluster (Decrease, Popcorn). 3dtr-cl - 3 double treble crochet cluster. Work as follows: holding back last loop of all three sts, work 3 dtr in space indicated, YO and draw through all 4 loops on hook. tr2tog – 2 treble crochet decrease. Work as follows: holding back the last loop of both tr stitches, tr in each of stitches or spaces indicated, YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook. FPdc2tog - 2 front post double crochet decrease. Work as follows: holding back the last loop of both FPdc stitches, FPdc in each stitch indicated, YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook. FPtr2tog - 2 front post treble crochet decrease. Work as follows: holding back the last loop of both FPtr stitches, FPtr around each stitch indicated, YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook. 4dc-pc – 4 double crochet popcorn. Work as follows: complete 4 dc in space or stitch indicated; carefully drop the loop from the hook; insert hook in the first dc of the popcorn set, grab the dropped loop, and pull it through. 4FPdc-pc – 4 front post double crochet popcorn. Work as follows: complete 4 FPdc around stitch indicated; carefully drop the loop from the hook; insert hook in the first FPdc of the popcorn set, grab the dropped loop, and pull it through. Note: Start working by Turquoise color thread, all rounds where the color of thread changes to Apricot, marked with the letter " A " (Rnd 5, 11, 15-18, 21, 23-24) . Doily Ch 8; join with sl-st to form a ring. Rnd 1 – ch 1, sc in ring, ch 2, repeat from * tо * 12 times; join. Mark M first ch-2 sp of this Rnd for Rnd 5. Total: 12 sc, 12 ch-2 sps. Rnd 2 – Beg.BPdc around first sc, ch 2, BPdc around next sc, ch 2, repeat from * tо * 11 times; join. Total: 12 BPdc, 12 ch-2 sps. Rnd 3 – sl-st in next ch-2 sp, (Beg.dc, 2 dc) in same sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * tо * 11 times; join. Total: 36 dc. (6 repeats of 6 dc in each repeat). Rnd 4 – Beg.dc in Beg.dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, repeat from * tо * 35 times; join. Mark (M1) 3rd dc and (M2) 4th dc in each repeats of this Rnd for Rnd 6. Total: 36 dc, 36 ch-1 sps. Rnd 5(А) – sl-st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, 3dtr-cl in marked M ch-2 sp of Rnd 1, sc in next ch-1 sp of Rnd 4, ch 4, skip ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, 3dtr-cl in next ch-2 sp of Rnd 1, sc in next ch-1 sp of Rnd 4, ch 4, skip ch-1 sp, repeat from * tо * 11 times; join. Total: 24 sc, 12 3dtr-cl, 12 ch-4 sps. Rnd 6 – sl-st in next 3dtr-cl, ch 1, FPsc around same 3dtr-cl, FPdc around marked (M1) dc of Rnd 4, 7 dc in next ch-4 sp (Shell), FPdc around marked (M2) dc of Rnd 4, FPsc around next 3dtr-cl, FPdc around marked (M1) dc of Rnd 4, 7 dc in next ch-4 sp (Shell), FPdc around marked (M2) dc of Rnd 4, repeat from * tо * 11 times; join. Total: 12 FPsc, 24 FPdc, 12 Shells. 3 Doily Lucy. All rights reserved © 2020 Galyna Borysova http://www.ravelry.com/people/GalynaBorysova Doily Lucy Design by Galyna Borysova Rnd 7 – sl-st in next FPdc and in next dc of Shell, Beg.BPdc around same dc, (BPdc around next dc) 6 times, FPdc2tog using next two FPdc and skipping FPsc between them, (BPdc around next dc of Shell) 7 times, FPdc2tog using next two FPdc and skipping FPsc between them, repeat from * tо * 11 times; join. Total: 84 BPdc, 12 FPdc2tog. Rnd 8 – sl-st in next 3 BPdc, Beg.FPdc around same (4th) BPdc, ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, FPdc around next FPdc2tog, ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, (FPdc, ch 5, FPdc) around next BPdc (Fork), ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, FPdc around next FPdc2tog, ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, FPdc around next BPdc, ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, FPdc around next FPdc2tog, ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, (FPdc, ch 5, FPdc) around next BPdc (Fork), ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, FPdc around next FPdc2tog, ch 3, skip 3 BPdc, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Mark M1 FPdc made befor Fork and M2 FPdc made after Fork in each repeats of this Rnd for Rnd 11. Total: 24 ch-3 sps, 18 FPdc, 6 Forks. Rnd 9 – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, 7 dc in next ch-5 sp of Fork, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, (sc in next ch-3 sp) twice, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, 7 dc in next ch-5 sp of Fork, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, repeat from * tо * 5 times; sc in next ch-3 sp, join. Total: 102 dc, 12 sc. Rnd 10 – sl-st in next dc, Beg.BPdc around same dc, (BPdc around next dc) 4 times, FPdc around right FPdc of Fork of Rnd 8, (BPdc around next dc) 3 times, (BPdc, ch 3, BPdc) around next dc (Fork), (BPdc around next dc) 3 times, FPdc around left FPdc of Fork of Rnd 8, (BPdc around next dc) 5 times, skip marked M2 FPdc of Rnd 8, FPsc around next FPdc of Rnd 8, skip sc, (BPdc around next dc) 5 times, FPdc around right FPdc of Fork of Rnd 8, (BPdc around next dc) 3 times, (BPdc, ch 3, BPdc) around next dc (Fork), (BPdc around next dc) 3 times, FPdc around left FPdc of Fork of Rnd 8, (BPdc around next dc) 5 times, skip marked M2 FPdc of Rnd 8, FPsc around next FPdc of Rnd 8, skip sc, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Mark FPsc of this Rnd for Rnd 12. Total: 96 BPdc, 6 FPsc, 12 FPdc, 6 Forks. Rnd 11(А) – Beg.dc in Beg.BPdc, (dc in next BPdc) 4 times, FPdc around next FPdc, (dc in next BPdc) 3 times, ch 3, 4dc-pc in next ch-3 sp of Fork, ch 3, skip BPdc of Fork, (dc in next BPdc) 3 times, FPdc around next FPdc, (dc in next BPdc) 5 times, work FPtr2tog using marked M2 and M1 FPdc of Rnd 8, skip FPsc, (dc in next BPdc) 5 times, FPdc around next FPdc, (dc in next BPdc) 3 times, ch 3, 4dc-pc in next ch-3 sp of Fork, ch 3, skip BPdc of Fork, (dc in next BPdc) 3 times, FPdc around next FPdc, (dc in next BPdc) 5 times, work FPtr2tog using marked M2 and M1 FPdc of Rnd 8, skip FPsc, repeat from * tо * 5 times, sc in next sc; join. Total: 96 dc, 6 FPtr2tog, 12 FPdc, 6 4dc-pc, 12 ch-3 sps. Rnd 12 – sl-st in next 4 dc and in next FPdc, Beg.4FPdc-pc around same FPdc, ch 7, skip 3 dc, FPsc around next 4dc-pc, ch 7, skip 3 dc, 4FPdc-pc around next FPdc, ch 7, skip 5 dc, sc between skipped dc and FPtr2tog, FPtr around marked FPsc of Rnd 10 (work in front of FPtr2tog of Rnd 11), sc between FPtr2tog and next dc, ch 7, skip 5 dc, 4FPdc-pc around next FPdc, ch 7, skip 3 dc, FPsc around next 4dc-pc, ch 7, skip 3 dc, 4FPdc-pc around next FPdc, ch 7, skip 5 dc, sc between skipped dc and FPtr2tog, FPtr around marked FPsc of Rnd 10 (work in front of FPtr2tog of Rnd 11), sc between FPtr2tog and next dc, ch 7, skip 5 dc, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Total: 6 FPsc, 12 sc, 6 FPtr, 12 4FPdc-pc, 24 ch-7 sps. Rnd 13 – sl-st in next ch-7 sp, ch 1, [sc, (ch 3, sc) twice] in same sp, [(ch 3, sc) 3 times in next ch-7 sp] twice, skip (sc, FPtr,sc), [sc, (ch 3, sc) twice] in next ch-7 sp, [(ch 3, sc) 3 times in next ch-7 sp] 3 times, skip (sc, FPtr,sc) , repeat from * tо * 5 times; [sc, (ch 3, sc) twice] in next ch-7 sp, ch 3, join. Total: 72 sc, 66 ch-3 sps. Rnd 14 – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 7 times, skip 2 sc, sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 10 times, skip 2 sc, repeat from * tо * 5 times; sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) twice, ch 3, join. Total: 66 sc, 60 ch-3 sps. 4 Doily Lucy. All rights reserved © 2020 Galyna Borysova http://www.ravelry.com/people/GalynaBorysova Doily Lucy Design by Galyna Borysova Rnd 15(А) – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 4 times, ch 8, skip ch-3 sp, work tr2tog using next two ch-3 sps, ch 8, skip ch-3 sp,sc in next ch-3 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) 5 times, ch 8, skip ch-3 sp, work tr2tog using next two ch-3 sps, ch 8, skip ch-3 sp, repeat from * tо * 5 times; sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, join. Total: 36 sc, 6 tr2tog, 30 ch-3 sps, 12 ch-8 sps. Rnd 16(А) – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, Beg.4dc-pc in same sp, (ch 3, 4dc-pc in next ch-3 sp) twice, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 5, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next tr2tog (Fork), ch 5, dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, (4dc-pc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 3 times, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 5, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next tr2tog (Fork), ch 5, dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Total: 12 sc, 18 4dc-pc, 12 dc, 6 Forks, 24 ch-3 sps, 30 ch-5 sps. Rnd 17(А) – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, Beg.4dc-pc in same sp, ch 3, 4dc-pc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (5 dc in next ch-5 sp) twice, 7 dc in next ch-5 sp of Fork, (5 dc in next ch-5 sp) twice, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, (4dc-pc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) twice, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (5 dc in next ch-5 sp) twice, 7 dc in next ch-5 sp of Fork, (5 dc in next ch-5 sp) twice, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Total: 12 sc, 12 4dc-pc, 162 dc, 12 ch-1 sps, 18 ch-3 sps. Rnd 18(А) – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, Beg.4dc-pc in same sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (BPdc around next dc) 27 times, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, 4dc-pc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (BPdc around next dc) 27 times, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Total: 12 sc, 6 4dc-pc, 162 BPdc, 12 ch-1 sps, 12 ch-3 sps. Rnd 19 – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, skip sc, FPdc around next BPdc, (ch 2, skip BPdc, FPdc around next BPdc) 13 times, skip ch-1 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) twice, ch 3, skip sc, FPdc around next BPdc, (ch 2, skip BPdc, FPdc around next BPdc) 13 times, skip ch-1 sp, repeat from * tо * 5 times; ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, dc in first sc to form last ch-3 sp. Total: 12 sc, 84 FPdc, 78 ch-2 sps, 18 ch-3 sps. Rnd 20 – [Beg.dc, (ch 2, dc) twice] in same sp, ch 3, skip sc, FPdc around next FPdc, (ch 2, FPdc around next FPdc) 13 times, ch 3, skip ch-3 sp, [dc, (ch 2, dc) twice] in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, skip sc, FPdc around next FPdc, (ch 2, FPdc around next FPdc) 13 times, ch 3, skip ch-3 sp, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Total: 18 dc, 84 FPdc, 90 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-3 sps. Rnd 21(А) – Beg.4FPdc-pc around Beg.dc, (ch 4, 4FPdc-pc around next dc) twice, (ch 4, 4FPdc-pc around next FPdc) 14 times, ch 4, 4FPdc-pc around next dc, (ch 4, 4FPdc-pc around next dc) twice, (ch 4, 4FPdc-pc around next FPdc) 14 times, ch 4, repeat from * tо * 5 times; join. Total: 102 4FPdc-pc, 102 ch-4 sps. Rnd 22 – ch 1, FPsc around Beg.4FPdc-pc, ch 3, FPsc around next 4FPdc-pc, ch 3, repeat from * tо * 101 times; join. Total: 102 FPsc, 102 ch-3 sps. Rnd 23(А) – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, repeat from * tо * 101 times; join. Total: 102 sc, 102 ch-3 sps. Rnd 24(А) – sl-st in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in same sp, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch-3 sp, repeat from * tо * 101 times; join. Total: 204 sc, 102 ch-3 sps. Finish off! Cut thread, fasten off, weave in all ends. 5 Doily Lucy. All rights reserved © 2020 Galyna Borysova http://www.ravelry.com/people/GalynaBorysova Doily Lucy Design by Galyna Borysova After you finish, doilies should be hand washed (if desire you could slightly starch it) and blocked. Using a blocking mat (optional) or any other flat surface, shape your doily to proper shape and size; pin in place using rust-proof pins. Allow to dry completely. I don’t recommend ironing textured doilies as they could become flat. I give permission to sell the finished product only with credit given as: Designed by Galyna Borysova. Help to keep designers designing! Please direct others back to my Ravelry Shop to purchase their own copy of this design: http://www.ravelry.com/people/GalynaBorysova Design by Galyna Borysova 6 Doily Lucy. All rights reserved © 2020 Galyna Borysova http://www.ravelry.com/people/GalynaBorysova
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/p/meow-overlay-mosaic-crochet-pattern-for-cat-lovers


en - English Meow! Overlay Mosaic Crochet Materials used Yarn amounts below relate to the suggested layouts shown on page 2 - comforter {lap blanket, throw} King Cole Cherished Baby DK (100% acrylic; 250m / 100g): 2 {5, 13} balls in White (MC), 1 {2, 5} balls in Grey (CC1) 1 {2, 3} balls in Pink (CC2) 1 {1, 2} balls each in Powder Pink (CC3) and Nickel (CC4) 4mm (US G/6) crochet hook Tension / Gauge 1 pattern repeat (12 sts x 12 rows) measures 7cm x 7cm, measured over Pattern 1, using 4mm hook. Tension is not critical for this project, but if your swatch is larger than mine you may need to purchase additional yarn. This pattern includes 2 separate charts (and full written instructions for each), which may be put together in any order you wish to create your own customised blanket (or indeed scarf, cushion, runner or any other item you may wish to make). US terms are used throughout For abbreviations and instructions for special stitches, please see last page. 1 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Before I begin, I would like to acknowledge the fantastic work of my lovely testers, listed below, who have given up their time (and yarn) to help me produce this pattern for you: Gina Brophy Tania Leis Jan Learmonth Clay Becky Radecka Linda Croshaw Jane Reid Theresa Curtin Helen Squire Maria @thelaughinglamb Caroline Tigchelaar Suggested Layouts Comforter / Pram Blanket Cot / Lap Blanket Adult Throw 2 reps wide 3 reps wide 5 reps wide 60 x 68 cm 90 x 110 cm 150 x 180 cm If you want to make a different size blanket, or use a different arrangement of colours, you will need the following amounts of yarn for every complete pattern repeat (48 sts): Pattern 1 (12 rows): MC = 11g / 28m; CC = 9g / 23m Pattern 2 (35 rows): MC = 22g / 55m; CC = 24g / 60m 2 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Special Instructions US terms will be used throughout For abbreviations and instructions for special stitches see table at the end of this pattern. About Mosaic Crochet If you have researched mosaic crochet on the internet, you may have noticed that there are in fact several different crochet techniques, all of which are frequently described as ‘mosaic crochet’. For this design I have chosen to use what I call overlay mosaic crochet. All stitches are worked on the right side, so yarn is cut at the end of each row. The base fabric is made up of rows of back loop scs, and the pattern is created by working dcs two rows below. If you are new to this technique, don’t worry, full written instructions are given, and I have also provided a chart. It is up to you which you follow, but if you are new to this technique, I would recommend following the written pattern, at least for the first few rows. Dealing with loose ends As all rows are worked with the right side facing you, overlay mosaic crochet tends to leave a LOT of ends (one at each end of every row in fact!) Rather than painstakingly weaving in all of these ends, this design includes several fringe options to make a feature of them, so make sure you leave a nice long tail at each end of each row (at least 15cm). If you prefer a border, please see separate envelope border pattern https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/easy-envelope-borders Note: it is my intention to add further border patterns as time goes on, along with additional mosaic designs, to eventually create a ‘pick and mix’ selection of blankets and borders. 3 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Instructions below show you how to place the patterns and change colours to create the suggested sizes / layouts shown on page 2, but feel free to go your own way! Charts can be found on page 5 (pattern 1) and page 6 (pattern 2) Written instructions for each pattern start on page 7 (pattern 1) and page 9 (pattern 2) Stitch counts shown are for the comforter/pram { cot/lap, throw } size blankets. To make a different size adjust the number of starting sts – you will need a multiple of 48 + 5 sts on your foundation row. With the exception of the Foundation and Final rows, all sts are worked with RS facing you. Do not turn at the end of each row. Foundation Row Note: you may wish to use a larger hook for your fsc or starting chain, if you tend to work these tightly. WS. Using MC, make 102 {150, 246} ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across (or make 101 {149, 245} fsc if you prefer). Fasten off. Turn. 101 {149, 245} sts Continue with RS facing you, fastening off yarn at the end of every row. Comforter / Pram Blanket  Work 37 rows (3 reps) following pattern/chart 1, using the following colours for CC: 1st rep = CC4, 2nd rep = CC3, and 3rd rep = CC2  Work 35 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 2  Work 37 rows (3 reps) following pattern/chart 1, using the following colours for CC: 1st rep = CC2, 2nd rep = CC3, and 3rd rep = CC4 Do not fasten off. Cot / Lap Blanket  Work 13 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 1, using CC2 for CC  Work 35 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 2  Work 85 rows (7 reps) following pattern/chart 1, using the following colours for CC: 1st rep = CC2, 2nd rep = CC3, 3rd rep = CC4, 4th rep = CC1, 5th rep = CC4, 6th rep = CC3, and 7th rep = CC2  Work 35 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 2  Work 13 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 1, using CC2 for CC Do not fasten off. 4 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Adult Throw 1. Work 13 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 1, using CC2 for CC 2. Work 35 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 2 3. Work 85 rows (7 reps) following pattern/chart 1, using the following colours for CC: 1st rep = CC2, 2nd rep = CC3, 3rd rep = CC4, 4th rep = CC1, 5th rep = CC4, 6th rep = CC3, and 7th rep = CC2 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 once, then repeat step 2 again. 5. Work 13 rows (1 rep) following pattern/chart 1, using CC2 for CC Do not fasten off. Final Row Turn. WS. 1 ch (does not count as st), sc across. Fasten off. Chart Notes Read the charts from bottom to top, right to left (left to right if you are left-handed). The first and last 2 sts of each row are always sc and indicate the colour you will be using for the whole row. You do not change colours within each row (the colours on the chart are there only to give you an idea of how the piece should look). Chart 1 5 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Chart 2 6 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Written Instructions PATTERN / CHART 1 Row 1 RS. Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, BLsc across to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 2 Join CC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, BLsc across to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 3 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * 3 BLsc, [1 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc] twice, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 4 Join CC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 3 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 5 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 6 Join CC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 2 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 7 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 8 Join CC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. 7 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Row 9 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 10 Join CC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 2 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 11 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 12 Join CC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 3 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 13 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * 3 BLsc, [1 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc] twice, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Repeat rows 2 to 13 as required. You may wish to change CC colour with each repeat. 8 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com PATTERN / CHART 2 Row 1 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, BLsc across to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 2 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, BLsc across to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 3 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, BLsc across to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 4 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 6 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 10 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 10 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 5 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 7 BLsc, 10 FLdc2d, 13 BLsc, 10 FLdc2d, 8 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 6 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 4 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 14 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 14 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 7 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 5 BLsc, 14 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 14 FLdc2d, 6 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 8 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 2 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 17 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 17 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. 9 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Row 9 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 3 BLsc, 17 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 17 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 10 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 18 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 18 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 11 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 2 BLsc, 18 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 18 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 12 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 18 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 18 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 13 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 2 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 13 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 13 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 14 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 13 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 13 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 15 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 3 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 11 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 11 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 16 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 2 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. 10 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Row 17 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 9 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 9 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 18 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * [3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d] twice, 9 BLsc, [1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc] twice, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, [3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d] twice; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 19 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 7 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 7 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 20 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * [1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc] twice, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, [1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc] twice, 2 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 21 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 5 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 5 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 22 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * 3 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 7 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 4 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. 11 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Row 23 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 4 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 2 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 24 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * 4 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, [1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc] twice, 1 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 9 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, [1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc] twice, 1 FLdc2d, 2 BLsc, 5 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 25 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 4 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 6 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 4 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 6 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 26 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 3 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 3 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 27 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 FLdc2d, * 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 7 FLdc2d, [3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d] 3 times, 3 BLsc, 7 FLdc2d, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 3 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 28 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 6 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 29 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 7 BLsc, 11 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 11 FLdc2d, 8 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 30 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 6 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 7 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. 12 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Row 31 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 8 BLsc, 9 FLdc2d, 13 BLsc, 9 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 32 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 9 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 8 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 33 Note: make sure you only miss 1 st behind the FLdc2tog+ and FLdc2togJoin CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 8 BLsc, 1 FLdc2tog+, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2tog-, 13 BLsc, 1 FLdc2tog+, 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2tog-, 9 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Row 34 Join MC with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, 1 BLsc, * 7 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d+, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d-, 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 11 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d+, 5 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d-, 1 BLsc, 1 FLdc2d, 8 BLsc; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. Note: you should have 3 front loops unused from row 32, below the 5 BLsc between the cat’s ears. Row 35 Join CC1 with a standing sc in first st, 1 sc, BLsc across to last 2 sts, 2 sc. Fasten off. 13 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Finishing off Check all knots at each end of each row are secure, by pulling them firmly. If you wish you can simply trim all ends to the same length; or why not try one of the following ideas for a more decorative fringe? Knotted Fringe In this example I simply tied 3 strands together with a basic knot, then trimmed ends to the same length. Twisted Fringe 1 Note: this fringe option does require you to weave in the ends …. With WS facing you, thread the end into a needle you generally use to weave in ends, pull yarn taut and twist clockwise several times, until it curls up on itself when the tension is relaxed a little. Now fold the twisted yarn inwards and weave through a few stitches to anchor the end, but don’t secure it firmly just yet. To adjust the length of the fringe, insert another blunt needle into the twisted loop to tension it and pull the thread until the fringe is the required length. When you remove the 2nd needle from the loop it will magically twist around itself to create a neat twisted fringe. Now weave the loose end backwards and forwards a couple of times to secure. Twisted Fringe 2 If you like the idea of a twisted fringe, but really don’t like weaving in ends, try this version … 1. With RS facing you, pull first loose end taut and twist clockwise several times, until it curls up on itself when the tension is relaxed a little. 2. Keeping hold of the first end in your other hand, repeat stage 1 with the next loose end. 3. Now hold both twisted ends together, keeping them under tension, and twist several times anti-clockwise. Note: take care not to let go of the ends, or they will unravel! 4. Secure the end with a knot, and trim. 14 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com Abbreviations and special stitches Instructions for special stitches RS Right Side WS Wrong Side ch Chain st Stitch rep Repeat yo Yarn Over pul Pull Up Loop sc Single Crochet fsc Foundation Single Crochet 2 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, * insert hook in ch, yo, pul, yo, draw through 1 loop (ch made), yo, draw through 2 loops (sc made); rep from * inserting hook under 2 loops of ch made in previous fsc to begin new st Standing sc Starting with a slip knot on hook, work sc as usual dc Double Crochet BLsc Back Loop Single Crochet: Sc into back loop only FLdc2d Front Loop Double Crochet 2 down: Dc in front loop of next st 2 rows down FLdc2d+ Front Loop Double Crochet 2 down forward: Dc in front loop of st 2 rows down and 1 st further ahead than usual FLdc2d- Front Loop Double Crochet 2 down backward: Dc in front loop of st 2 rows down, immediately below st just worked FLdc2tog+ Front Loop Double Crochet 2 together forward: Dc in front loop of next 2 sts 2 rows down, leaving last loop of each on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops 15 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com FLdc2tog- Front Loop Double Crochet 2 together backward: Working in front loop of sts 2 rows down, dc in st immediately below the one just worked, and the following st, leaving last loop of each on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops Please respect the work it has taken to create this pattern for you, and do not sell on or copy these instructions in any way. If you wish to share the pattern you may do so only by linking to the original documents in my website or Ravelry store (as applicable). Rosina contact: hello@rosinacrochets.uk 16 © Rosina Plane www.rosinaplane.com
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en - English Cactus Callie Crochet Pattern               Materials needed Worsted weight yarn (4 medium) Size “E/4-3.50MM” crochet hook Yarn needle Scissors 7.5 mm safety eyes 1” white button for headband Marker or scrap yarn for marker. (I always use scrap yarn) Poly-fil stuffing Push pins (optional) 1” Button in the color black matte or color of your choice Brown Crayola Super Tip Marker or Marker of your choice Elf blending eye brush or brush of your choosing Elf blush in the shade “Blushing” or blush of your choosing Optional: #2 pencil Abbreviations to know                  Chain (ch) Slip Stitch (sl st) Stitch (st) Stitches (sts) Place Marker (PM) Place New Marker (PNM) Single Crochet (sc) Double Crochet (dc) Half Double Crochet (hdc) Triple Crochet (trc) Increase (inc) (single crochet increase)(double crochet increase) Puff Stitch (work three unfinished hdc together) Invisible Decrease (inv dec)(single crochet invisible decrease) Back Loop Only (BLO)(this is when we work into the front loop only) Front Loop Only (FLO)(this is when we work into the front loop only) Rotate to the right (RTTR)(This indicates that we will be rotating our work to the right instead of turning our work to continue working.) -You will also need to change color. (The way I change color is by finishing last st in the row previous with the color change yarn.) Colors used -As always feel free to use whatever colors that inspire you and make you happy.  Brand “I love this yarn”in the color “Tin Roof” (Color A)  Brand “I love this yarn”in the color “Pink” (Color B)  Brand “I love this yarn”in the color “Limelight” (Color C)  Brand “I love this yarn”in the color “Ivory” (Color D)  Brand “I love this yarn”in the color “Coraline” (Color E)  Brand “I love this yarn”in the color “Fruit Salad” (Color F) Measurements & Gauge -This piece measures approximately 15“ tall and 6” wide. -Approximate gauge for this piece - 6 1/2 rows X 6 sts = 1”   Skill level intermediate to advanced Remember to work this pattern tightly for best results. Feet/Legs/Body/Head (Color A) Row#-1- ch 2, sc 6 into the second ch from the hook, PM(6 sts) Row#-2- inc in all sts, PM(12 sts) Row#-3- sc 1, inc in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(18 sts) Row#-4- sc 2, inc in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(24 sts) Row#-5- sc 10, inv dec, inv dec, sc 10, PM(22 sts) Row#-6- sc 9, inv dec, inv dec, sc 9, PM(20 sts) Row#-7- sc 8, inv dec, inv dec, sc 8, PM(18 sts) Row#-8- sc 7, inv dec, inv dec, sc 7, PM(16 sts Row#-9- sc 6, inv dec, inv dec, sc 6, PM(14 sts) Row#-10- sc 5, inv dec, inv dec, sc 5, PM(12 sts) Row#-11-14- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts) Row#-15- dc in FLO for the whole round, PM(12 sts) -sl st and cut yarn. Weave tails in. -Fold the dc round you just worked down to make the next part easier. -Join (Color B) With a sl st in the BLO of row #13.(I recommend joining at the back of the foot and to the left, so that the jog that is left when changing color is in the back). Row#-16- sc in BLO for the whole round, PM(12 sts) Row#-17-18- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts)(change to (Color C) on the last st of row #18) Row#-19-21- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts)(change to (color B) on the last st of row #21) Row#-22-24- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts)(change to (Color C) on the last st of row #24) Row#-25-27- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts)(change to (Color B) on the last st of row #27) Row#-28-30- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts) -sl st, cut and weave in tails. -STUFF foot and leg. -Fold the dc row that you folded down back up. -repeat for second leg -To join both legs, sl st together with (Color B) in the center of both legs with legs facing you. Row#-31-43- sc for the whole round, PM(24 sts) Row#-44- sc 4, inv dec in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(20 sts) Row#-45- sc 3, inv dec in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(16 sts) -STUFF Row#-46-50- sc for the whole round, PM(16 sts) Row#-51- sc 2, inv dec in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(12 sts) Row#-52-56- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts)(Change to color D on last st of row #56) Row#-57- in FLO sc 1, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(18 sts) Row#58- sc 2, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(24 sts) Row#59- sc 3, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(30 sts) Row#60- sc 4, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(36 sts) Row#61- sc 5, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(42 sts) Row#62-71- sc for the whole round, PM(42 sts) Row#72- sc 5, inv dec, repeat for the whole round, PM(36 sts) Row#73- sc 4, inv dec in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(30 sts) Row#74- sc 3, inv dec in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(24 sts) Row#75- sc 2, inv dec in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(18 sts) -Place eyes. I placed mine between rows #10 and #11 (counting up from the first row you made with the color D) with 9 spaces in between. Row#76- sc 1, inv dec in the next st. repeat for the whole round, PM(12 sts) -STUFF Row#77- inv dec for th whole round(6 sts) -sl st and cut. -With tail weave through the FLO of all sts and pull tight and weave tail in. Nose (Color D) -To make nose, loop yarn around two sts approximately 3 to 5 times (as many as desired) between rows #8 and #9 (counting up from the first row you made with the color D), weave tails into head and cut. Hair (Color F) Row#1- ch 2, sc 6 into the second ch from the hook, PM(6 sts) Row#2- inc in all sts, PM(12 sts) Row#3- sc 1, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(18 sts) Row#4- sc 2, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(24 sts) Row#5- sc 3, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(30 sts) Row#6- sc 4, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(36 sts) Row#7- sc 5, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(42 sts) Row#8-10- sc for the whole round, PM(42 sts) Row#11- sl st, sc 3, hdc 3, dc 3, trc 3, dc, hdc, sc 24, hdc, dc, trc, ch 3 and turn (42 sts) Row#12- dc, hdc, sc 23, hdc, dc, trc, ch 3 and turn (28 sts) Row#13- dc, hdc, sc 25, ch 1 and turn (28 sts) Row #14- sc 25, hdc, dc, trc, ch 3 and turn (28 sts) Row #15- dc, hdc, sc25, ch 1 and turn (28 sts) Row #16-sc 28, ch 1 and turn (28 sts) Row #17- sc 28, ch 1 and RTTR, sc 39 (working 2 sc into the trc spaces and into the last st.)(67 sts) -sl st and cut leaving a very long tail to weave up the hair and sew onto head. Arms (Color D) Row#1- ch 2, sc 6 into the second ch from the hook, PM(6 sts) Row#2- inc in all sts, PM(12 sts) Row#3-26- sc for the whole round, PM(12 sts) -sl st and cut -Stuff -Weave tail through the outer loops and pull tight before sewing to body -Repeat for second arm Skirt (Color C) Row#1- ch 24, sl st to join(24 sts)(make sure to give yourself a starting ch tail long enough for sewing to the body) Row#2-5- sc for the whole round, PM(24 sts)(Change to color E on the last st of row #5) Row#6- inc in all sts, PM(48 sts) Row#7- sc for the whole round, PM(48 sts) Row#8- sc 1, inc in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(72 sts) -We will be working only the puff part of the round in color C and the rest of the sts will be in color D Row#9- work a puff (with color C), sc 3(with color D), repeat for the whole round, PM(72 sts) Row#10- sc for the whole round, PM(72 sts)(change to color F on the last st of this row) Row#11- in BLO sc for the whole round, PM(72 sts) Row#12- sc for the whole round, PM(72 sts) Row#13- dc increase for the whole round, PM(144 sts)(change to color E on the last st of this row) Row#14- sc for the whole round, PM(144 sts) -Secure by sewing to the body with the starting ch tail -Sew tails in Headband (Color E) Row#1- ch 2 (We will be working into the 2nd ch from hook) Row#2- sc, ch 1 and turn (1 st) Row#3- inc, ch 1 and turn (2 sts) Row#3- inc, sc 1, ch 1 and turn (3 sts) Row#4- inc, sc 2, ch 1 and turn (4 sts) Row#5- inc, sc 3, ch 1 and turn (5 sts) Row#6-12- sc for the whole row, ch 1 and turn (5 sts) Row#13- inv dec, sc 3, ch 1 and turn (4 sts) Row#14- inv dec, sc 2, ch 1 and turn (3 sts) Row#15- inv dec, sc 1, ch 1 and turn (2 sts) Row#16- inv dec, ch 1 and RTTR, sc 18, ch 1 and RTTR, sc 18 (36 sts) - sl st and cut leaving a tail long enough to sew to the head. Cactus (Color C) -Center part of cactus -Be sure to leave a starting ch tail long enough to sew onto the headband Row#1- ch 2, sc 6 into the second ch from the hook, PM(6 sts) Row#2- in BLO sc for the whole round, PM(6 sts) Row#3-8- sc for the whole round, PM(6 sts) -Stuff (I find it helpful to use a #2 or mechanical pencil) Row#9- sc 1, inv dec in the next st, repeat for the whole round (3 sts) -sl st and cut yarn -Weave tail through outer loops, pull tight and weave that tail in (leave the starting ch tail for securing to headband) -For cactus Arms Row#1- ch 2, sc 6 into the second ch from the hook, PM(6 sts) Row#2- in BLO sc for the whole round, PM(6 sts) Row#3- sc for the whole round, PM(6 sts) Row#4- in FLO sc 3, in BLO sc 3, PM(6 sts) Row#5- sc for the whole round, PM(6 sts) Row#6- sc 1, inv dec in the next st, repeat for the whole round, PM(3 sts) -Weave tail through outer loops, pull tight and weave that tail in (leave the starting ch tail for securing to the center part of cactus) -Before sewing to center part, work the tail up to the natural fold created by the FLO and BLO row and sew together to further the bend. -Repeat for second cactus arm and sew one slightly higher than the other one. Repeat All of the previous steps to make your second completed cactus, then secure to headband. Bracelet (Color B) Row#1- ch 13, sl st to join(13 sts) Row#2- ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st into the 2nd st, repeat for the whole round, sl st and cut Row#3- sl st to join new yarn, ch 3, sk 1 st, sl st into the 2nd st, repeat for the whole round, sl st and cut -Weave tails in Scarf (Color A) Row#1- ch 18 (Work into the 4th ch from hook) Row#2- trc into the next 15 sts, ch 3 and turn (16 sts) Row#3- trc into the next 15 sts, ch 6 and sl st to the staring trc ch 3 (to form button hole)(22 sts) -sl st cut and weave tail in -Sew button to the side opposite the button hole Shoe laces Rosy Cheeks Freckles The Real Deal & Thank You! You have permission to sell any item made from any free or purchased pattern. However, you are not allowed to resell, distribute, duplicate, or share these patterns or downloads in any printed or digital form, or to claim patterns as your own original designs. Exceptions include sharing links to patterns or tutorials on blog round-ups, features, etc. I do require a link and credit back to the original post, and you are not allowed to post the pattern in full unless you have express written permission. I am so overwhelmed with happiness that you found my pattern and that it inspired you to create. I am shook to the core so thank you. Thank you! :) I have pored all of my love into these little babies, and hope that you have fun bringing your lovely little pixy fellow to life!
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en - English Baby #16 - Cow Crochet Pattern facebook.com/BunniesandYarn Any questions, doubts or comments regarding the pattern? You can send me an email to: bunniesandyarn@gmail.com Crochet level Supplies • Sport weight yarn in colors: o White o Sand o Black Skills you need o Pink • Basic-intermediate crochet and • 2.5 mm. crochet hook amigurumi skills. • Two (8 mm.) safety eyes • Basic sewing skills (to join parts). • Yarn needle, stitch markers and scissors • Stuffing material of your choice Crochet terms and abbreviations The pattern is worked using US Crochet Terms. Conversions to UK terms are shown below in parentheses: • ch – chain (UK=chain) • mr – magic ring (UK=magic ring) • sc – single crochet (UK=double crochet) • dc – double crochet (UK= treble crochet) • sl – slip stitch (UK=slip stitch) • inc(sc) – increase in single crochet (UK=increase in double crochet) • dec(sc) – decrease in single crochet (UK=decrease in double crochet) • fo – fasten off (UK=fasten off) Final size Notes • Crochet very tight, so the toy keep its shape and stuffing won’t show through the stitches. • You can make a bigger toy by using a larger size of hook and thicker yarn (adjust the size of the eyes too). This pattern is for personal use only. PLEASE DO NOT COPY, SHARE, TRANSLATE OR DISTRIBUTE PATTERN. Pattern made by Michelle Alvarez. Of course you can sell the toys you make! Just give credit for the crochet pattern to Michelle Alvarez from Bunnies & Yarn. About 4 in. (10 cm.) tall if you use sport weight yarn and a 2.5 mm. crochet hook. 1 facebook.com/BunniesandYarn PATTERN Head Arms {Photo 2} Use white yarn. Work in rounds. Attach safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, leaving 8 stitches between the eyes. Stuff head firml y. (Make 1) Round 1: Make 6 sc in MR (6) R2: Inc(sc) in every stitch (12) R3: [1 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (18) R4: [2 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (24) R5: [3 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (30) R6: [4 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (36) R7-13: Sc around (36) R14: [4 sc, 1 dec(sc)] x6 (30) R15: [3 sc, 1 dec(sc)] x6 (24) R16: [2 sc, 1 dec(sc)] x6 (18) FO. Weave in tail. Use sand and white yarn. Start with sand yarn. Work in rounds. Stuff arms slightl y. (Make 2) Round 1: Make 5 sc in MR (5) R2: Inc(sc) in every stitch (10) Change to white yarn. R3: Sc around (10) R4: 4 sc, 1 dec(sc), 4 sc (9) R5: Sc around (9) FO. Leave a long tail to sew to the body. Body Use white yarn. Work in rounds. Stuff body firml y. (Make 1) Round 1: Make 6 sc in MR (6) R2: Inc(sc) in every stitch (12) R3: [1 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (18) R4: [2 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (24) R5: [3 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (30) R6-8: Sc around (30) R9: [3 sc, 1 dec(sc)] x6 (24) R10-11: Sc around (24) R12: [2 sc, 1 dec(sc)] x6 (18) R13: Sc around (18) FO. Leave a long tail to sew to the head. {Photo 1} Legs {Photo 3} Use sand and white yarn. Start with sand yarn. Work in rounds. Stuff legs slightl y. (Make 2) Round 1: Make 6 sc in MR (6) R2: Inc(sc) in every stitch (12) R3: Sc around (12) Change to white yarn. R4: Sc around (12) R5: [2 sc, 1 dec(sc)] x3 (9) FO. Leave a long tail to sew to the body. Nose {Photo 4} Use pink yarn. Work in rounds, joining the rounds with a slip stitch. (Make 1) Round 1: In MR make: [2 sc, 2 dc] x2 (8). Join to 1st sc from round with a slip stitch. Chain 1. R2: [3 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x2 (10). Join to 1st sc from round with a slip stitch. FO. Leave a long tail to sew to the head. 2 facebook.com/BunniesandYarn PATTERN Horns {Photo 5} Use sand yarn. Work in rounds. Stuff horns slightl y. (Make 2) Round 1: Make 6 sc in MR (6) R2-4: Sc around (6) FO. Leave a long tail to sew to the head. Ears {Photo 6} Use white and bl ack yarn. Work in rounds. (Make 2 - One with white and one with black yarn) Round 1: Make 6 sc in MR (6) R2: Inc(sc) in every stitch (12) R3: [1 sc, 1 inc(sc)] x6 (18) FO. Leave a long tail. Fold ear and sew to the head. Tail {Photos 7-8} Use white yarn. (Make 1) Make 10 chains. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in the next 8 stitches. FO. Leave a long tail to sew to the body. Attach small strands of white yarn to end of tail and use a brush to make it fluffy. Spots {Photo 9-10} Use bl ack yarn. Work in rounds, joining the rounds with a slip stitch. (Make 9) Round 1: Make 6 sc in MR (6). Join to 1st sc from round with a slip stitch. FO. Leave a long tail to sew to the body. 3 facebook.com/BunniesandYarn PATTERN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 4 facebook.com/BunniesandYarn CONGRATULATIONS! Little Cow is ready! Keep crocheting! God bless you. - Michelle Alvarez I would love to see your toys and dolls! You can share a picture of your finished toys on Facebook and Instagram using the hashtag #bunniesandyarn instagram.com/bunniesandyarn You can find more crochet patterns at: bunniesandyarn.etsy.com and ravelry.com/patterns/sources/bunnies--yarn 5 facebook.com/BunniesandYarn MORE DESIGNS FROM BUNNIES & YARN Click the image for more information 6
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en - English Please Read me ! Hello, and thank you for getting this pattern! It was made with lots of love, and I hope it will be useful. This pattern was prepared by me Burcu @dollsberries Please DO NOT distribute, reproduce, translate or publish this pattern. This pattern is for personal use only! Please give credits to the author when posting online or selling the product. If you are going to share pictures on Instagram, please remember to: ❖ Add ‘’Pattern by @dollsberries’’ and ❖ Use the hashtag #dollsberries If you don’t I would very much like to receive a Picture of your work anyway For any doubt or question, you can contact me on Instagram! Enjoy the pattern! Can’t wait to see the result… Sincerely Burcu 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, CROCHET TERMINOLOGY Chain Stitch ✓ The chain stitch is the foundation of most crochet projects. The foundation chain is a series of chain stitches in which you work the first row of stitches. ✓ To make a chain stitch, you start with a slip knot (or loop) on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop on your hook (first chain stitch made). ✓ Don’t pull the stitches too tight, otherwise they will be difficult to work in. ✓ When counting chain stitches, do not count slip knot, nor the loop on your hook. Only count the number of ‘v’s Slip Stitch (Sl st) ✓ Starting with a loop on your hook, insert hook in stitch and pull up a loop, pulling it through the loop on your hook as well. The sl st is commonly used to attach new yarn and to join rounds. Single crochet (sc) ✓ Starting with a loop on your hook, insert your hook in stitch and draw up a loop ( two loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through both the loops on your hook(first sc made) Half-Double Crochet (hdc) ✓ Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over hook before inserting hook in stitch and draw up a loop ( three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull yarn through two loops (two loops remains on hook). Yarn over and pull yarn through all three loops (first hdc made) Double crochet (dc) ✓ Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over hook before inserting hook in stitch and draw up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull yarn through two loops ( two loops remains on hook). Yarn over and pull yarn through remaining two loops on hook. (first dc made). Treble (or triple) crochet (tr) ✓ Starting with a loop on your hook, yarn over hook twice before inserting hook in stitch and draw up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull yarn through two loops (three loops remain on hook). Again, make a yarn over and pull yarn through two loops (two loops remain on hook). Once more, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (first tr made). Invisible single crochet decrease (inv- dec) ✓ Insert the hook into the front loops of the next two stitches (three loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through first two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook) . Yarn over and draw through both loops on hook (dec made) Single crochet 3 together ( sc3tog ) ✓ Insert the hook under the front loop only of the next three stitches. This gives you four loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw it through the first three loops on your hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull through the remaining two loops on the hook. You have now completed one sc3tog. ✓ Indeed that means ‘ triple invisible decrease’ 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Changing colors/ Attaching new yarn ✓ With the current color, work the last stitch before the color change up to the last step of the stitch. Using the new color, yarn over hook, pull new color through remaining loops on hook. Close the opening ✓ Working in the stitches of the last round, insert the yarn needle from back to front through the front loop of each stitch around. Gently pull the yarn to tighten the hole. Once the opening is closed, secure the yarn. Insert the needle back through the center of the ring and taking care, bring it out at an inconspicuous place on the piece. Work a few weaving stitches before inserting the needle back through the stuffed piece and out at another point. Cut the yarn. Fitting safety eyes ✓ Choose and mark the positions for the eyes (or nose) on the front of the face. Insert the shank of the eye through the fabric from right side to wrong side. (the eye is on the front side, the shank sticks out at the back.) attach the locking washer onto the shank and push down firmly to lock it tightly. You can use a safety eye insertion tool for doing this. Invisible Join ✓ After the last stitch is worked (don’t slip stitch in next stitch), cut the yarn leaving a tail and pull the tail through the last stitch. Using the tail and a yarn needle, skip the next stitch and insert the needle under both loops of following stitch. Then insert the needle into the back loop of the last stitch made (the same stitch where the tail came through) and also through the horizontal loop of the stitch (for stability). ✓ Gently tug the yarn so that it looks like a stitch and matches the others. Secure it and weave in the tail. Fasten off ✓ After the last single crochet stitch is worked, work a slip stitch in the next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail. With the tail, yarn over and pull the tail through the stitch. GAUGE ✓ Gauge is how tight or loose you hold your yarn when crocheting. This is very important when crocheting garment so that they will fit a particular size but not as important when making toys. Your tension, hook size and yarn weight will all effect the size of the finished product. INDICATIONS: ➢ Rounds are worked with continuous rounds technique. ➢ When working in rows, work through the entire stitch, not back loop or front loop only unless specified elsewise. ➢ After a chain, always work from second loop from hook if it is not indicated otherwise. ➢ I used craft wire but you don’t have to. It’s up to you. However I suggest you to put a wire or stick inside neck, so you prevent the head fall down. 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. ABBREVIATIONS: ➢ Mr: magic ring (or adjustable ring) ➢ ch: chain stitch ➢ sl st : slip stitch ➢ sc: single crochet stitch ➢ hdc: half double crochet stitch ➢ dc: double crochet stitch ➢ tr: treble(or triple) crochet stitch ➢ dec: decrease ➢ inc: increase ➢ w: work 3 single crochet in the same stitch ➢ sc3tog: single crochet 3 together (triple invisible decrease) ➢ dc2tog: double crochet 2 together ➢ yo: yarn over ➢ BLO: back loops only ➢ FLO: front loops only ➢ ( ) : work instructions within parantheses in same stitch indicated ➢ [ ]..x : work instructions within brachets as many times as directed MATERIALS: YarnArt Jeans 73 (skin) YarnArt Jeans 11( light greenhair,shoes) YarnArt Jeans 01 (white) YarnArt Jeans 51 (red) YarnArt Jeans 69 (green-dress) A couple of Safety eyes 10mm crochet hook 2.00 mm Tapestry needles Scissors,pins, stitch markers Fiberfill stuffing Craft wire as an optional 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. You can use different colours that you wish. The yarn that ı used is 2 FINE (sport weight, baby weight, 8-ply). If you choose 2 FINE and 2.00 mm crochet hook like me , you will have an average of 23 cm (9 inch) toy. Arms: Round 1: 5 sc in magic ring =5 Tug tail to tighten ring. Mark last stitch and move marker each round Round 2 : 5 inc = 10 Rounds 3-6: 10 sc (four rounds) Round 7: [3 sc, dec ]2 = 8 Round 8: [3 sc, inc ]2 =10 Rounds 9-23: 10 sc ( fifteen rounds) You finished one of arms, now crochet one more cause we need 2 arms. DO NOT stuff arms! Cut two pieces of wire around 27 cm (11 in) and fold the ends. We are going to use them as skeletons of legs, body and head. Right Leg: Start with light green; Round 1: ch 6, turn back ; inc, 3 sc , 4 sc in the same st, 3 sc, inc = 14 Mark last stitch and move marker each round Round 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, inc =20 Rounds 3-4: 20 sc (two rounds) Round 5: 5 sc, 6 dec, 3 sc = 14 Round 6: 3 sc, 4 dec, 3 sc =10 Round 7: 10 sc Change to skin colour Round 8: work in blo 10 sc Stuff the foot a little and insert the wire that you prepared. By the way, you don’t have to use skeleton. It’s up to you. Stuff the foot tightly again. Rounds 9-10: 10 sc (two rounds) Round 11: 1 sc, inc, 8 sc =11 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Round 12: 11 sc Round 13: 2 sc, inc, 8 sc = 12 Round 14: 12 sc =12 Round 15: 3 sc, inc, 8 sc =13 Round 16: 3 sc, inc, 9 sc = 14 Rounds 17-19: 14 sc (three rounds) Round 20: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc = 13 Round 21: 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc =14 Round 22: 3 sc, dec, 9 sc =13 Round 23: 2 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc = 15 Round 24: 4 sc, inc, 10 sc = 16 Round 25: 16 sc =16 Round 26: 1 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 6 sc =18 Rounds 27-35: 18 sc (nine rounds) Round 36: 13 sc = 13 Sl st 1, pull out the yarn and cut it ( leave a long tail in case some sewing should be needed). Before starting second leg, lets work on the edge of shoe: Hold the leg and work sc in each flo st of round 8. In total you need to work 10 sc. Pull out the yarn and work invisible join. Left leg: Start with light green; Round 1: ch 6, turn back ; inc, 3 sc , 4 sc in the same st, 3 sc, inc = 14 Mark last stitch and move marker each round ound 2: 2 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, inc =20 Rounds 3-4: 20 sc (two rounds) Round 5: 6 sc, 6 dec, 2 sc = 14 Round 6: 4 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc =10 Round 7: 10 sc 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Change to skin colour Round 8: work in blo 10 sc Stuff the foot a little and insert the wire that you prepared. By the way, you don’t have to use skeleton. It’s up to you. Stuff the foot tightly again. Rounds 9-10: 10 sc (two rounds) Round 11: 1 sc, inc, 8 sc =11 Round 12: 11 sc Round 13: 2 sc, inc, 8 sc = 12 Round 14: 12 sc =12 Round 15: 3 sc, inc, 8 sc =13 Round 16: 3 sc, inc, 9 sc = 14 Rounds 17-19: 14 sc (three rounds) Round 20: 4 sc, dec, 8 sc = 13 Round 21: 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc =14 Round 22: 3 sc, dec, 9 sc =13 Round 23: 2 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc = 15 Round 24: 4 sc, inc, 10 sc = 16 Round 25: 16 sc =16 Round 26: 1 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 6 sc =18 Rounds 27-36: 18 sc (ten rounds) DO NOT cut the yarn because we will go on, but before joining the legs, work on the edge of left shoe too as you did on right shoe. Round 37: 3 sc , ch 2 ; now keep on working from here to join legs. 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Body: Round 1: work 1 sc into sl st of right leg. 18 sc in right leg,2 sc in back side of the chain, 18 sc in left leg, 2 sc in other side of the chain =40 Round 2: work 18 sc and put your stitch marker here. This is new starting point of round. Rounds 3-8: 40 sc (six rounds) Round 9: [dec, 8 sc]4 =36 Rounds 10-21: 36 sc (twelve rounds) We are going to join arms at this round. (You need to insert your hook into a st of arm and a st of body, then pull through these 2 sts.) Round 22: 10 sc, 4 sc ( taking one from arm and one from body), 14 sc, 4 sc ( taking one from arm and one from body), 4 sc =36 Round 23: 10 sc, working in shoulder [1 sc, inc]3 , 14 sc, working in shoulder [1 sc, inc]3 , 4 sc =46 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Round 24: 46 sc Cut a wire around 20 cm(8 in), fold the ends and insert the wire into the arms. Round 25: 10 sc, 3 sc3tog, 14 sc, 3 sc3tog, 4sc =34 Round 26: 9 sc, 2 sc3tog, 3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 2 sc3tog, 3 sc =24 Round 27: [2 sc, dec]6 = 18 Round 28: [1 sc, dec]6 =12 Now 3 rounds for the neck Rounds 29-31: 12 sc (three rounds) =12 Neck done, now we start the head Head: Round 1: 12 inc =24 Round 2: [2 sc, inc]8 = 32 Round 3: [3 sc, inc]8 = 40 Round 4: [7 sc, inc]5 = 45 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Round 5: [8 sc, inc]5 =50 Round 6: [4 sc, inc]10 = 60 Round 7: [9 sc, inc]6 = 66 Rounds 8-11: 66 sc ( four rounds) Round 12: [9 sc, dec]6 =60 Round 13: [8 sc, dec]6 =54 Rounds 14-23: 54 sc (ten rounds) Stop and place the safety eyes (10mm) between rounds 14 and 15, 8 sc apart. If you mark the position of eyes with pins beforehand, it will be more assured. Round 24: [7 sc, dec]6 =48 Round 25: [6 sc, dec]6 = 42 Round 26: [5 sc, dec]6 = 36 At this point, stuff the neck and head tightly. Round 27: 18 dec = 18 Round 28: [1 sc, dec]6 =12 Round 29: 6 dec =6 Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the loops of the last round and pull. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside. 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Embroider eyelashes, eyebrow and mouth using thin black yarn. You can apply a bit of blush on cheeks. Ears: work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc in magic ring . Sew ears 7 sc apart from eyes. Hair : Work with green yarn. Round 1: 8 sc in magic ring Round 2: 8 inc = 16 Round 3: [1 sc, inc]8 =24 Round 4: [2 sc, inc ]8 =32 Round 5: [3 sc, inc]8 =40 This circle piece is the top of the hair. Now, without cutting the yarn, we are going to crochet hairs in a spiral way. Work Ch 40 , turn back; skip 2 and starting from the 3rd loop; work 38 dc in the loops of the chain. Skip 1 st from the circle piece and work sl st into the next st. Keep working in series, in the end there will be 20 hairs. Once you are done, cut the yarn leaving a long tail to sew later. 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Sew the hair on the head 1. Leave 7 hairs on the front, pin the rest hairs behind the ears. 2. First, sew the circle piece on the top of the head, do not pull tight otherwise it will look bad. 3. Take the needle out of the place where you pinned the hair. Just sew the hairs on the head where you pinned. Do Not pull tight otherwise it will look ugly. 4. Take 3 hairs (from 7 hairs you left before) on the right front of the head. Bend the 3 hairs , create a bang and sew these three hairs together behind the ear. 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. 5. Take 3 more hairs, bend them and sew on the right side of the head. 6. Bend the last hair too and sew it on the left of the head, behind the left ear. Hairclip: Start with red yarn; Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring Tug tail to tighten ring. Mark last stitch and move marker each round Round 2: 6 inc =12 Round 3: [1 sc, inc]6 = 18 Round 4: [2 sc, inc]6= 24 Change to White yarn Round 5: [3 sc, inc]*6 =30 Change to green yarn; Round 6: fold the piece, work 1 sc into corresponding stitches of all round. Leave a long tail to sew it later. Embroider seeds using thin black yarn. While sewing the hairclip, it will be enough to sew just both ends. I mean you can sew only corners into the hair. 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. Dress: Start with red yarn; Start by working in rows Row 1: chain 36 turn ; skip 6 chains, starting from the 7th work 9 sc, w, 10 sc, w, 9 sc = 34 , ch 1 , turn ‘W’ means 3 single crochets in the same stitch. It’s a kind of increase By the way, skipped 6 chains will be a space for button the foundation chain stitch is never counted as a single crochet stitch. So your first sc must be in the same stitch with the foundation chain stitch. Row 2: 3 sc, (3 sc) in next st, 6 sc, (3 sc) in next st, dec in blo, 8 sc, dec in blo, (3 sc) in next st, 6 sc, (3 sc) in next st, 3 sc = 40 , ch 2 , turn Row 3: 4 dc, (3 dc) in next st, 8 dc, (3 dc) in next st, dc2tog, 8 dc, dc2tog, (3 dc) in next st, 8 dc, (3 dc) in next st, 4 dc = 46 ch 2, turn Row 4: 6 dc, ch 4, skip 10 , 14 dc, ch 4, skip 10, 6 dc = 34 , ch 2, turn Row 5: 6 dc, 4 dc (in chain loops), 14 dc, 4 dc (in chain loops ), 6 dc = 34 Join the ends with sl st, ch 2 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. the foundation chain stitch is never counted as a double crochet stitch. So your first dc must be in the same stitch with the foundation chain stitch. Start working in rounds Round 6: 34 dc, sl st , ch 2 Round 7: 34 dc inc in blo = 68 , sl st , ch 2 Rounds 8-11: 68 dc , sl st, ch 2 ( four rounds) Round 12: 68 dc, sl st Change to White yarn; Round 13: ch 1 , 68 sc in flo Cut the yarn, work invisible join and weave in the end work with green yarn, join the yarn in one of the blo sts of round 13; Round 14: ch 2 , 68 dc inc Cut the yarn, work invisible join and weave in the end. Embroider seeds using thin black yarn. If your yarn is not thin, then it looks ugly. Weave in the yarn between seeds. 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline. In row 1 of the dress, we made a loop for the very top back of the dress. Indeed we placed the loop there to put a button on the dress. So sew a small button on the top of the dress to attach Do not forget shoe laces If you have any question about this pattern, do not hesitate to contact me via the following channel https://www.instagram.com/dollsberries It would be great to see your work, so plaease share a photo with me on instagram by hashtag #dollsberries Good luck ! 2021 @dollsberries . All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only! This pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or translated, published on internet or offline.
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en - English Bruno the Bulldog Puppy Crochet Pattern by Chie Powles designer of aidie & jellybean Note from the designer: Thank you for purchasing the Bruno the Bulldog puppy pattern from aidie & jellybean. This pattern is very versatile. You can use any type of yarn with appropriate sized hooks to create different sized/coloured/textured bulldogs with this pattern. The best part about an amigurumi is that each and every one is unique and different. So create and enjoy your very own Bruno to keep you company! Copyright © 2019 Chie Powles. Contents of this document MAY NOT be copied, reproduced, altered, translated into other languages, published or distributed in any way. You MAY NOT sell finished products made with this pattern for mass production/commercial purposes. Please credit Chie Powles as the designer when sharing your work on SNS and other public spaces (Chie Powles, www.aidieandjellybean.com). ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 Size: Measures approximately 11cm tall. Skills required: • Crocheting in spiral • Working in single crochet • Working in half double crochet • Working in double crochet • Slip stitch • Chains • Increasing and decreasing • Basic sewing skills Materials and tools: The list below is a reference to show you what I have used to make this cavalier. For the head, body, ears and tail • Moda Vera GELATO - 50% acrylic, 50% cotton; 135m / 50g; Colour TAN • Moda Vera GELATO - 50% acrylic, 50% cotton; 135m / 50g; Colour WHITE • A strand of GREY yarn to stitch the nose For the collar • Moda Vera GELATO - 50% acrylic, 50% cotton; 135m / 50g; Colour PINK For the eyes • MILFORD Mercer 40・20g ; Colour BLACK • MILFORD Mercer 40・20g ; Colour CREAM • Toy safety eyes (optional) • 1.00mm hook • 2.25/2.5mm hook • Polyester fibrefill • Yarn needle • Sewing needle (to sew on eyes) • Stitch marker (optional) • Scissors Tip I recommend using a hook one size smaller than what is specified on the yarn to create tighter stitches. Tighter stitches will give your toy a clean and polished look preventing the stuffing from showing through.Cotton blend yarn give the best results as well. ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 2 2 Abbreviations: st(s) = stitch(es) ch = chain sc = single crochet dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet sl st = slip stitch inc = increase (2 sc in one stitch) dec = decrease (working only the front loops, 2 sc together) (…) = repeat the instructions in the brackets the given number of times […] = total number of stitches The bulldog is crocheted continuously in spiral (unless specified otherwise), marking the beginning of each round with a stitch marker (optional but will be easier to follow for beginners) Head: With the WHITE yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18] Round 4: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 6 times [24] Round 5: sc in next 3 sts, inc, dc in next 3 sts, dc inc, (sc in next 3 sts, inc) repeat 2 times, dc in next 3 sts, dc inc, sc in next 3 sts, inc. Ch 1, turn. [30] Round 6: Working only the back loops, sc in all 30 sts. Ch 1, turn. [30] Round 7: Working only the back loops, sc in all 30 sts. Ch 1, turn. [30] Round 8: Working only the back loops, sc in all 30 sts. Ch 1, turn. [30] Round 9: Working only the back loops, sc in next 6 sts, (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 6 sts [24] You will stitch the nose after this round (see photos on page 4 for details) Round 10: Working in the round, sc in next 6 sts, (inc, sc in next st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 6 sts [30] Round 11: (inc, sc in next 4 sts) repeat 6 times [36] Round 12: (sc in next 5 sts, inc) repeat 6 times [42] Round 13-16: sc in all 42 sts [42] insert safety eyes (optional) crocheted eyes sit on rows 8-9. Round 17: (dec, sc in next 5 sts) repeat 6 times [36] Round 18: (sc in next 4 sts, dec) repeat 6 times [30] start stuffing with fibrefill Round 19: (dec, sc in next 3 sts) repeat 6 times [24] Round 20: (sc in next 2 sts, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Round 21: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 22: (dec) repeat 6 times [6] Leave a tail for weaving and fasten off ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 3 2 End of round 9. Insert the black yarn from behind starting at the bottom space shown above. Work vertical stitches across the 6 spaces. After 3 rounds of vertical stitches. After 4 rounds of horizontal stitches. Tie the ends at the back and trim yarn tail short. End of round 16. Insert safety eyes. (optional) Using a yarn needle, thread the tail through the front loops and pull to tighten. A very clean closing. Thread the yarn tail to the opening under the muzzle. Sew it closed. Tie a knot and hide the yarn tail in the head piece. Finished head - bottom view. Finished head - front view. ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 4 2 Ears: make 1 of each colour With the WHITE/TAN yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 3 sc in magic ring [3] Round 2: (inc) repeat 3 times [6] Round 3: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 3 times [9] Round 4: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 3 times [12] Round 5: (sc in next 3 sts, inc) repeat 3 times [15] Round 6: sc in next 2 sts, inc, (sc in next 4 sts, inc ) repeat 2 times, sc in next 2 sts [18] Round 7-9: sc in all 18 sts [18] Round 10: hold the ear flat and work 8 sc across the top to close the opening [8] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off No stuffing is required. Eyes: make 2 of each colour (toy safety eyes optional) With the BLACK lace yarn and 1.00mm hook Round 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5] Round 2: (inc) repeat 5 times [10] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off With the WHITE lace yarn and 1.00mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: working only the back loops, sl st in all 12 sts [12] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off Place the black piece on top of the white piece so you can see a bit of white around the edges. I like to make an extra stitch within the eye to give it a little bit of a sparkle. I use one of the yarn tails (the tail from the start) to add this little stitch. This is optional but the extra touch does give her a cuter expression. ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 5 2 Eyelids: make 1 of each colour With the WHITE/TAN yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 3 sc in magic ring. Ch 1, turn. [3] Round 2: (inc) repeat 3 times [6] Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off Body: The body is made with TAN and WHITE yarn. You will be alternating the yarn throughout the rounds of the this body. You will not be fastening off after each colour change. You will also be turning your work from the end of round 7 onwards. With the TAN yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18] Round 4: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 6 times [24] Round 5: (sc in the next 3 sts, inc) repeat 6 times [30] Round 6: sc in the next 2 sts, inc, (sc in the next 4 sts, inc) repeat 5 times, sc in the next 2 sts [36] Round 7: sc in next 24 sts. Change colour to WHITE. Sc in next 12 sts. Ch 1, turn [36] Round 8: working only the back loops, sc in next 12 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 24 sts. Ch 1, turn [36] round 9: working only the back loops, sc in next 24 sts. Change colour to WHITE. Sc in next 12 sts. Ch 1, turn [36] Round 10: working only the back loops, sc in next 12 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 24 sts. Ch 1, turn [36] round 11: working only the back loops, sc in next 24 sts. Change colour to WHITE. Sc in next 12 sts. Ch 1, turn [36] Round 12: working only the back loops, sc in next 12 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 24 sts. Ch 1, turn [36] Round 13: working only the back loops, (dec, sc in next 4 sts) repeat 4 times. Change colour to WHITE. (dec, sc in next 4 sts) repeat 2 times. Ch 1, turn [30] Round 14: working only the back loops, sc in next 10 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 20 sts. Ch 1, turn [30] Round 15: working only the back loops, sc in next 20 sts. Change colour to WHITE. Sc in next 10 sts. Ch 1, turn [30] Round 16: working only the back loops, sc in next 10 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 20 sts. Ch 1, turn [30] ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 6 2 Round 17: working only the back loops, sc in next 20 sts. Change colour to WHITE. Sc in next 10 sts. Ch 1, turn [30] Round 18: working only the back loops, sc in next 10 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 20 sts. Ch 1, turn [30] Round 19: working only the back loops, (dec, sc in next 3 sts) repeat 4 times. Change colour to WHITE. (dec, sc in next 3 sts) repeat 2 times. Ch 1, turn [24] Round 20: working only the back loops, sc in next 8 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 16 sts. Ch 1, turn [24] Round 21: working only the back loops, sc in next 16 sts. Change colour to WHITE. Sc in next 8 sts. Ch 1, turn [24] Round 22: working only the back loops, sc in next 8 sts. Change colour to TAN. Sc in next 16 sts. Ch 1, turn [24] Leave a long enough tail for sewing and fasten off TAN. With the yarn needle, sew the side with the yarn tail. Round 23: Pull up a loop with the WHITE yarn. Working in the round, (dec, sc in next 2 sts) repeat 6 times [18] stuff with fibrefill Round 24: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12] Round 25: (dec) repeat 6 times [6] Leave a long enough tail for sewing and fasten off End of round 22. Sew the opening closed. Start of round 23. ©2019 Chie Powles This is how it will look. Tie a knot and hide the yarn tail. Finished body. www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 7 2 How to make a cluster stitch for the paws: Step 1. (Yarn over, insert hook in st, draw loop) repeat 3 times Step 2. Yarn over, draw yarn through 6 loops on hook. You will have 2 loops on your hook. Step 3. Yarn over, draw yarn through both loops to secure cluster. Arms: (make 2) With the WHITE yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Left arm: Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: cluster st in next 4 sts, sc in next 8 sts [12] Round 4: sc in all 12 sts [12] Round 5: Change colour to TAN. Sc in all 12 sts. Ch 1, turn. [12] Round 6-10: working only the back loops, sc in all 12 sts. Ch 1, turn. [12] Holding the top together flat, close the top by working 6 sc across [6] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off. Using the yarn tail, sew the side closed. No stuffing is required. Right arm: Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: sc in next 8 sts, cluster st in next 4 sts [12] Round 4: sc in all 12 sts [12] Round 5: Change colour to TAN. Sc in all 12 sts. Ch 1, turn. [12] Round 6-10: working only the back loops, sc in all 12 sts. Ch 1, turn. [12] Holding the top together flat, close the top by working 6 sc across [6] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off Using the yarn tail, sew the side closed. No stuffing is required. ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 8 2 Legs: (make 2) With the WHITE yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6] Round 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12] Round 3: sc in next 4 sts, cluster st in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts [12] Round 4: sc in all 12 sts [12] Round 5-6: Change colour to TAN. sc in all 12 sts [12] Round 7: sc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts [16] Round 8-9: sc in all 16 sts [16] Round 10: sc in next 4 sts, (dec) repeat 4 times, sc in next 4 sts [12] Round 11: (dec) repeat 6 times [6] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off No stuffing is required. Tail: With the TAN yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Round 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5] Round 2: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 2 time, sc in next st [7] Round 3-4: sc in all 7 sts [7] Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off No stuffing is required. Collar: *With the BLACK yarn and 2.25/2.5mm hook Start with a ch of 28. Round 1: hdc in second ch from hook. hdc in next 26 ch spaces [27] Leave a tail for weaving and fasten off. ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 9 2 Putting Bruno together Step 1: Sewing the eyes If you are opting to use crocheted eyes, you can attach them using a sewing needle. Always work the stitch directly underneath where the eye piece is sitting on. Step 2: Sewing the eyelids Place the eyelid (side closed to the nose) so it sits just above the eye. Bring all yarn tails to the bottom of the head, tie a knot and hide the yarn tail inside the head piece. ©2019 Chie Powles Sew the eyelid by picking up the stitch that is directly underneath the piece. Work the needle under both the front and back loops of the eyebrow piece. This way the stitches will be less visible and the eyebrow piece will not look stretched. With a yarn needle, hide the tail hanging in the middle inside the head piece. www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 0 The Mattress Stitch I like to use a stitch called the “mattress stitch” to attach my amigurumi parts. It does take a bit of practice to master but the end result speaks for itself! This method allows the stitch to be “invisible” giving you a very clean finish. The stitch is worked by pulling the yarn through the vertical posts of the ear/head/arm / leg/tailpiece and then inserting your needle in the stitch of the head/body piece directly above/underneath the stitch you just worked on the head/body piece. Repeat this stitch all the way around. Make sure to pull the stitch tight to give it the invisible finish. Step 3: Attaching the ears Line the base of the ear up to between the 7th and 8th row (counting from the centre) and sew the ear on to the head. ©2019 Chie Powles Using the mattress stitch, sew the ears in place. Leave about 8-9 st spaces between the ears. Thread the yarn tail to the underside of the ear. Fold the ear over and secure in place. www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 1 Step 4: Attaching the head to the body Using a yarn needle, thread the tail through the front loops and pull to tighten. Push the needle through the centre and pull through the top. Pull the yarn through the top (between 7th and 8th row from the centre). ©2019 Chie Powles Using the mattress stitch and secure the head on to the body piece. Remember to always pick up the vertical posts of the body piece. Pull the stitches tight. This will make your stitches invisible. Always work the stitch that is directly above the vertical post you have just worked. www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 2 Step 5: Attaching the arms Using a yarn needle and yarn tail, sew the side closed. Do not fasten off. Bring the yarn tail back to the top as you will be using it to sew the arms on to the body. The yarn tail back at the top. Position the arm so the top of the arm is 4 rows down from where the head is attached. Sew the arm using the mattress stitch. Remember to work the vertical post of the arm piece. Puff up the arm as you go to keep its shape. 4 4 1 1 2 LEFT ARM: Sew in the direction and order as shown above. ©2019 Chie Powles 3 3 2 RIGHT ARM: Sew in the direction and order as shown above. www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 3 Step 6: Attaching the legs You will start off by closing the opening of the leg pieces using a yarn needle. Remember NOT TO FASTEN OFF as you will be using the same yarn tail to sew the legs onto the body. Hold the leg in place and start at the back of the leg. Insert the needle into the body piece and sew the leg onto the body. Work your way from the top of the leg to the bottom of the leg. 1 2 4 3 ©2019 Chie Powles When you’re finished, pull the yarn though the body piece. Insert the needle in one of the stitches and tie a knot. Pull the yarn though the body to the other side and cut the remaining yarn off. There is no right or wrong way to attach the leg piece. Try to keep it fairly straight so the Bulldog will stand upright with no support. www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 4 Step 7: Attaching the tail Start by sewing closed the opening of the tail. Find your ideal position and secure the tail in place. Hold the tail down and secure it in position so it sits flat. Final step: Give Bruno his collar! Using the yarn tails, sew the two ends together. Tie a double knot and hide the yarn tails in the body piece. ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 5 Hello, BRUNO ©2019 Chie Powles www.aidieandjellybean.etsy.com 1 2 6
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en - English Eternal Sailor Moon Amigurumi Doll by xMangoRose Completed Size: 8 inches tall Gauge: 6 sc = 1 inch 5 inches wide (arm to arm) 6 sc rows = 1 inch ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Materials: • Yarn: White, Navy Blue, Red, Yellow, Pink and Skin (medium/worsted weight) • Embroidery Thread/Floss: Yellow and White • Crochet Hooks size E/4 (3.50 MM), D/3 (3.25 MM) • Stiffened Felt: White and Yellow • Poly Fiberfill Stuffing • Needles: Yarn/Craft Needle, and Embroidery Needle • 6 mm Plastic Safety Eyes • Ribbons: Red (1/8” wide) and Yellow (1/8” wide) • Glue Gun • Optional: 26 Gauge Jewelry Wire and 1/8” Hole Puncher Terminology: sl st: slip stitch dc: double crochet ch: chain sc: single crochet ( ): # of stitches : repeat between hdc: half double crochet dec: decrease/sc 2 together Changing Yarn Color: 1. Leave the last stitch of the old color unfinished (i.e., two loops on the hook). 2. Pull though the new color to complete the stitch. Directions: Note: The head, body, and legs will be made in one continuous piece. Use the E/4 (3.50 MM) hook for everything unless otherwise stated. Head: start with a magic circle/ring in Skin color yarn. Row 1: 7 sc into the ring. (7) Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (14) Row 3: sc 1, 2 sc in next sc* repeat 7 times. (21) Row 4: sc 2, 2 sc in next sc repeat 7 times. (28) Row 5: sc in each sc around. (28) Row 6: sc 3, 2 sc in next sc repeat 7 times. (35) Rows 7 - 11: sc in each sc around. (35) Row 12: sc 3, dec repeat 7 times. (28) Row 13: sc in each sc around. (28) Row 14: sc 2, dec repeat 7 times. (21) Row 15: sc 1, dec repeat 7 times. (14) Attach eyes in center-front of head and stuff. Row 16: dec 7 times. (7) ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Body: Row 17: sc in each sc around. (7) Row 18: 2 sc in each sc around. (14) Row 19: sc 2, 2 sc in next sc, sc 3, 2 sc in next sc twice, change to White yarn in last stitch. (18) Rows 20 - 27: sc in each sc around. (18) Row 28: in back loops only, sc in each sc around, change to Skin yarn in last stitch. (18) Rows 29 - 30: sc in each sc around. (18) Stuff slightly. Legs: Row 31: sc 9, then skip next 9 stitches. (9) This will form the first leg. Make sure the last sc is center with the eyes. You may need to sc 1 or 2 more stitches to get the last sc to be aligned with the front center of face. Rows 32 - 42: sc in each sc around, change to White yarn in last stitch of Row 42. (9) Row 43: in back loops only, sc 9 around. (9) Rows 44 – 46: sc in each sc around. (9) Row 47: sc 5, 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 2. (11) Row 48: sc 6, 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 3. (13) Row 49: sc 7, 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 4. (15) Stuff leg firmly. Fasten off. Weave in any ends. Repeat Rows 31 through 46 for second leg. Start by attaching yarn to the closest front stitch next to the first leg (see picture on far right). For the second leg, follow these directions below for Rows 47 – 49. Row 47: sc 2, 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 5. (11) Row 48: sc 3, 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6. (13) Row 49: sc 4, 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 7. (15) Stuff leg firmly. Fasten off. Weave in any ends. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Bottom Shoe Covers (make 2): use White colored yarn. Row 1: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, 3 sc in last ch, rotate the piece to crochet on opposite side, sc 1, 2 sc in next ch. (8) Row 2: 2 sc in next sc 7 times, sc 1, sl st to join. (15) Fasten off, but leave a tail for sewing to shoe. Sew using only 1 loop from the shoe and both loops on the cover. Repeat for second shoe. Shoe Cuffs: use Red colored yarn. Note: Turn the doll upside down, so the head is pointing down. Row 1: starting in one of the back-center front loops created in Row 43 in the Legs section, sc 9 around. (9) Sl st in first sc, then fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for second shoe. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Skirt: use Yellow colored yarn. Note: Turn the doll upside down, so the head is pointing down. Row 1: starting in one of the back-center front loops created in Row 28 in the Body section, sc 18 around. (18) Row 2: 3 sc in each sc around. (54) Rows 3 – 4: sc in each sc around, changing to Red yarn in last st of Row 4. (54) Row 5: in back loops only, sc in each sc around. (54) Row 6: sc in each sc around, change to Navy Blue in last st. (54) Row 7: in back loops only, sc in each sc around. (54) Rows 8 – 9: sc in each sc around. (54) Fasten off. Sc 54 around in the front loops of Row 7 using Red, and Row 5 using Yellow. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Skirt Detail: Using the glue gun, attach the yellow ribbon around the waist, making the front slightly pointy. Attach the red ribbon in the same way, but slightly lower than the yellow ribbon. Next, cut out a tiny crescent moon from the Yellow felt (use template from brooch on last page) and attach to the front. Finally, attach a 10 inch red ribbon across the centerback, so that it drops freely. Front, slightly pointy Front with attached moon Back Ears (make 2): use Skin color yarn and D/3 (3.25 MM) hook. Row 1: sc 4 into a magic ring. Pull tight to close to form a half circle. Fasten off, but leave a tail for sewing. Set aside for later. Arms (make 2): start with a magic ring/circle in White yarn. Row 1: Sc 7 into the magic ring. (7) Rows 2 - 8: sc in each sc around. Change color to Skin in last st of Row 8. (7) Row 9: in back loops only, sc in each sc around. (7) Row 10: sc around. Change color to Red in last st. (7) Row 11: sc around. Change color to Pink in last st. (7) Row 12: sc 2, 2 sc in next sc 3 times, sc 2. (10) Row 13: sc in each sc around. (10) Row 14: sc 2, dec 3 times, sc 2. (7) Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Stuff the arms. With Red yarn, slst 7 around each arm using the front loops from Row 9. Set aside for later. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Hair: 1. With Yellow yarn, divide the head into three sections. Start at the nape of the back neck, and tightly wrap the yarn around the head, so it won't move. Then divide the back of the head in half (see pictures below). 2. Find a book that is about 6 inches wide, or use cardboard to make a 6 inch wide piece. Wrap Yellow yarn loosely around it about 48 times. 3. Cut a long length of embroidery thread/floss in the same color as the Yellow yarn. Pass one end of the thread underneath the middle of the first strand of yarn. Tie a double knot. 4. Pass one end of the thread underneath the next strand of yarn, tie a single knot with the two ends of the thread, and pull it tight. Make a single knot around each strand of yarn until you reach the end. Double knot at the end. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. 5. Cut the yarn on both ends of the book/cardboard. You will be left with your tied hair, and a pile of 6 inch long strings. 6. Attach the tied hair piece to the head along the center divided line. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. 7. With the pile of strings, we are going to make tassels for the hair along each side of the head. Stick the crochet hook under the side divided line near the center front of head, then pull through one of the yarn strands to make a loop, pull the rest of the yarn tails through that loop to make a tassel. Continue from the top of the head to the nape of the neck. Repeat for other side of head. 8. Gather the hair on each side of the head and tightly tie into two pig tails. Trim the pig tails down. We will put a cap on the trimmed pig tails later. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Bun Caps (make 2): start with a magic ring/circle in Yellow yarn and D/3 (3.25 MM) hook. Row 1: sc 5 into the ring. (5) Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (10) Row 3: sc 1, 2 sc in next sc repeat 5 times. (15) Rows 4 - 5: sc in each sc around. (15) Row 6: sc 1, dec repeat 5 times. (10) Fasten off, but leave a long tail. Wrap the tail around the bun several times, and change directions to give the hair a realistic look. Wrap tightly so the hair wont move, but don't smash the bun. Be careful not to close/cover up the hole. When you get to the hole, sew into one of the loops instead of covering it, then turn the string around. Don't cover the hole. Attach ten 12-inch strings to the bun to make the pig tails. Optional: If you like the pig tails hair to curve up like my doll, instead of falling straight down, you can attach a thin 10 inch long wire to the bun. Wrap one of the pig tails string around the wire to hide it. Use a tiny drop of glue every inch or so to secure the hair in place. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. The wire is completely wrapped in hair here. It is the top string in the picture above. Gather all the hair together and twist it slightly to curl the hair. Decide how long you want the pig tails, tie a knot at the end and trim. Attach the bun caps to the trimmed pigtails on the head. You will need to use the back of your crochet hook or a thin stick to help push in all the trimmed hair. Sew the bun caps to the head. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Bangs: Embroider hair bangs to the front of her head. Attach the ears first, and embroider the bangs between the location of the ears and the center of her front hair. I did 3 bangs on each side of her head. The center bangs are slightly bigger. Cut out a tiny crescent moon from the Yellow felt (use template from brooch on last page) and attach it to the front center of face between the center bangs. Hair Decorations (make 2): start with a magic ring/circle in Red yarn and D/3 (3.25 MM) hook. Row 1: sc 8 into the ring, change to White embroidery thread/floss in the last st. (8) Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (16) Fasten off, but leave a tail for sewing. Attach the hair decorations to the hair buns. Next, cut out 6 tiny feathers and 6 tiny circles from the White felt (use feather template on last page if necessary). I used the 1/8” hole puncher for the circles. Using the glue gun, attach the feathers and circles together and attach to head. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Collar: use Navy Blue colored yarn. Row 1: ch 20, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc in next 5 ch, 2sc and 1dc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, 1dc and 2sc in next ch, sc in next 5 ch, slst in last 2 ch. (23) Fasten off, and weave in the ends. Embroider an outline around the collar with Yellow embroidery thread/floss. Attach the arms to the body, and then attach the collar around the neck. Chest Brooch: use White and Yellow Felt. Using the Brooch template on the last page, cut out 2 upper and 2 lower wings from the White felt. Cut out a heart and crescent moon from the Yellow felt. Attach all the brooch pieces together with glue, then attach to the front of chest near collar. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Back Wings: use Stiffened White Felt. Using the Back Wing template on the last page, cut out 2 upper and 2 lower wings from the White felt. Glue the lower wings in front of the upper wings. Attach the wings to the back. Finishing: Style her hair as desired if using the wires. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer. Template for Hair Feathers, Chest Brooch, and Back Wings. ©xMangoRose, 2015. This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. Please DO NOT share, reproduce, and sell this pattern; or sell items created. Please respect my rights as a designer.
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en - English Bas the bear You will need: Phildar Phil Coton 3 Ca 50 g brown (Cappucino 080) Small amounts of: blue (Turquoise 041) red (Cerise 050) yellow (Soleil 045) black (Noir 067) 2 safety eyes black 6 mm Fiberfill Small piece of cardboard Piece of wire, approx. 15 cm Crochet hook size 2.5 Tapestry needle Stitches used: ch = chain stitch sl = slip stitch sc = single crochet If you have any questions about the pattern please send an email to: amigurumi@live.nl The pattern is for personal use only and may not be published in any way. Bas is crocheted in rounds. Make 1 sc in every stitch that isn’t mentioned. Body: Start at the bottom of the body. Ch 2 with brown or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) 2. 2 sc in every sc (= 12 sc) 3. 2 sc in every 2nd sc (= 18 sc) 4. 6 times (1 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc) (= 24 sc) 5. 2 sc in every 4th sc (= 30 sc) 6. 6 times (2 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 2 sc) (= 36 sc) 7. 2 sc in every 6th sc (= 42 sc) 8. 42 sc 9. 6 times (3 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 3 sc) (= 48 sc) 10 - 17. 48 sc 18. 12 sc, 6 times (sc 2 st together, 2 sc), 12 sc (= 42 sc) 19 and 20. 42 sc 21. Sc every 6th and 7th sc together (= 36 sc) 22 and 23. 36 sc 24. 10 sc, 6 times (sc 2 st together, 1 sc), 8 sc (= 30 sc) 25 and 26. 30 sc 27. Sc every 4th and 5th sc together (= 24 sc) 28 and 29. 24 sc 30. 6 times (1 sc, sc 2 st together, 1 sc) (= 18 sc) End with 1 sl into the next sc and fasten off. Stuff the body. Head: Ch 2 with brown or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) 2. 2 sc in every sc (= 12 sc) 3. 12 sc 4. 3 times (2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc), 6 sc (= 15 sc) 5. 3 times (1 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc), 6 sc (= 18 sc) 6. 3 times (2 sc into the next sc, 3 sc), 6 sc (= 21 sc) 7. 3 times (2 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 2 sc), 6 sc (= 24 sc) 8 and 9. 24 sc 10. 18 sc, 6 times (2 sc into the next sc) (= 30 sc) 11. 18 sc, 6 times (2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc) (= 36 sc) 12 - 19. 36 sc Attach the safety eyes between round 10 and round 11 at both sides of the increases (between the 18th and 19th st and between the last st of round 10 and the 1st st of round 11). 20. 6 times (2 sc, sc 2 st together, 2 sc) (= 30 sc) 21. 30 sc 22. Sc every 4th and 5th sc together (= 24 sc) 23. 6 times (1 sc, sc 2 st together, 1 sc) (= 18 sc) 24. Sc every 2nd and 3rd sc together (= 12 sc) 25. 6 times (sc 2 st together) (= 6 sc) Fasten off. Close the hole and weave in the end. Embroider with black the nose between round 1 and round 2. Make 1 stitch over round 1 till round 5. Sew the head onto the body. Ears: Ch 2 with brown or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) 2. 2 sc in every sc (= 12 sc) 3. 2 sc in every 4th sc (= 15 sc) 4. 15 sc 5. Fold the work and sc the st together with 7 sc. Make another ear and sew the ears onto the head at round 17 and round 18. Right hind leg: Ch 9 with brown. 1. 7 sc, 3 sc into the last ch, continue at the other side of the ch; 6 sc, 2 sc into the last ch (= 18 sc) 2. 2 sc into the 1st sc, 6 sc, 3 times (2 sc into the next sc), 6 sc, 2 times (2 sc into the next sc) (= 24 sc) 3. 2 sc into the 1st sc, 9 sc, 3 times (2 sc into the next sc), 9 sc, 2 times (2 sc into the next sc) (= 30 sc) Draw the crocheted oval onto the cardboard and cut it out. 4. 30 sc, into the back loops only. 5. 30 sc 6. 9 sc, 4 times (sc 2 st together, 1 sc), 9 sc (= 26 sc) 7. 7 sc, 4 times (sc 2 st together, 1 sc), 7 sc (= 22 sc) 8. 7 sc, 4 times (sc 2 st together), 7 sc (= 18 sc) 9. Sc every 2nd and 3rd sc together (= 12 sc) 10 and 11. 12 sc 12. 2 sc in every 4th sc (= 15 sc) 13. 3 times (2 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 2 sc) (= 18 sc) 14. 4 sc, leave the rest of the st unworked. 15. Ch 1, turn around, sc 2 st together, 10 sc, sc 2 st together (= 12 sc) 16. Ch 1, turn around, 1 sc, 3 times (2 sc into the next sc, 2 sc), 2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc (= 15 sc) Fasten off. Left hind leg: Make the left hind leg like the right hind leg till round 13. 14. 13 sc, leave the rest of the stitches unworked. 15. Ch 1, turn around, sc 2 st together, 10 sc, sc 2 st together (= 12 sc) 16. Ch 1, turn around, 1 sc, 3 times (2 sc into the next sc, 2 sc), 2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc (= 15 sc) Fasten off. Stuff the hind legs and sew them onto the body. Front legs: Ch 2 with brown or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) 2. 2 sc in every sc (= 12 sc) 3. 2 sc in every 2nd sc (= 18 sc) 4 - 6. 18 sc 7. 3 times (2 sc, sc 2 st together, 2 sc) (= 15 sc) 8. Sc every 4th and 5th sc together (= 12 sc) 9 - 23. 12 sc Stuff the first part lightly. 24. Fold the work in half and crochet the parts together with 5 sc. Make another front leg and sew the front legs onto the body. Tail: Ch 2 with brown or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) 2. 2 sc in every sc (= 12 sc) 3 and 4. 12 sc End with 1 sl into the 1st sc and fasten off. Stuff the tail and sew it onto the back of the body. Hat: Start at the top of the hat. Ch 2 with yellow or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) 2. 2 sc in every 2nd sc (= 9 sc) 3. 9 sc 4. Sc every 2nd and 3rd sc together (= 6 sc) Continue with blue. 5. 2 sc in every 2nd sc (= 9 sc) 6. 3 times (1 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc) (= 12 sc) 7. 12 sc 8. 2 sc in every 4th sc (= 15 sc) 9. 15 sc 10. 3 times (2 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 2 sc) (= 18 sc) 11. 18 sc 12. 2 sc in every 6th sc (= 21 sc) 13. 21 sc 14. 3 times (3 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 3 sc) (= 24 sc) End with 1 sl into the 1st sc and fasten off. Stuff the hat and sew it on top of the head. Dots: Ch 2 with yellow or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) End with 1 sl into the 1st sc and fasten off. Make 3 more dots and sew the dots onto the hat. Balloon: Start at the top of the balloon. Ch 2 with red or start with a magic ring. 1. 6 sc into the 1st ch or into the ring (= 6 sc) 2. 2 sc in every sc (= 12 sc) 3. 2 sc in every 2nd sc (= 18 sc) 4. 6 times (1 sc, 2 sc into the next sc, 1 sc) (= 24 sc) 5. 24 sc 6. 2 sc in every 4th sc (= 30 sc) 7 - 13. 30 sc 14. Sc every 4th and 5th sc together (= 24 sc) 15. 24 sc 16. 6 times (1 sc, sc 2 st together, 1 sc) (= 18 sc) Stuff the balloon. 17. Sc every 2nd and 3rd sc together (= 12 sc) 18. 6 times (sc 2 st together) (= 6 sc) 19. Sc every 2nd and 3rd sc together (= 4 sc) 20. 2 sc in every sc (= 8 sc) End with 1 sl into the 1st sc and fasten off. Put the piece of wire through the left front leg. Fold the tip of the wire back into the leg. Put the other end of the wire into the balloon (put the wire through a stitch of the left ear first if you need more support).

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